Parent's Get-Away

Started by Pala, August 27, 2006, 02:51:48 PM

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Pala

First set of hoops have been successfully jumped.  Plans are here:

http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/view_album.php?set_albumName=plans


We dig the foundation Tuesday 8/29/06.  Photo updates ASAP.

Wish me luck ;-)

chuck.

glenn-k



jraabe

#2
Looks like a nice project Pala

(Also, the more I look at it, the more it looks like a Ross Chapin design??)

Pala

Quote

(Also, the more I look at it, the more it looks like a Ross Chapin design??)


Yep, if thats kosher.

chatycady



jwv

QuoteLooks like a nice project Pala

(Also, the more I look at it, the more it looks like a Ross Chapin design??)

I thought the same thing, John.  Of course, I studied those designs in depth when trying to come up with something small but aesthetic for our home.  That was before I found this forum!

It does look great and good luck. You know this group-the more pics the better!

Your caulk tag line  ;D I have this island in my kitchen which I am "remodeling" (I'm sprucing up the kitchen in hopes of increasing the saleability).  I bought lattice strips to frame the sides and back-as I was gluing and tacking in certain places there were going to be gaps.  "What should I do?"  Rick's (the Gimp) answer-"I've got some caulk that'll take care of that" and he was right!  [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

Judy

Pala

#6


Breaking ground feels good.  Click my signature for more picutures under "FOUNDATION".

Enjoy.

glenn-k


Pala

#8


Forms are 1/2 done.  :o

We decided not to do a mono-pour since we need to back fill the interior because of the site slope.  Pouring the perimeter first, backfill with pea gravel, then pour the 4" slab and grade beams in a second pour.  Engineering calls for 16"w x 18" deep thickened edges and 8" separation grade to wood.  90 deg. bent rebar 12" o.c ties the slab and perimeter wall together.  Hopefully not a significant enough change to make the inspector balk.  

Dividing the job will make it easier to concentrate on things like the radiant tubes and placing threaded rod for the PHD hold downs.

Click my link below for some more photos from today.

chuck.



glenn-k

#9
Nice form lumber - it's a shame to pour cement against it. :-/

Pala

#10



Inside forms are up.  Now for the rebar, and plumbing.

chuck

Pala

#11


Rebar -  lots of it.   ;)  Inspection #1 today.  Cross your fingers.

More photos at the link below.

glenn-k

Looks Great- and like work.  I have one coming up, but a shade larger. :-/

Pala

#13



Ooops!

Messy, but the top is level and square.


More photos at the link below under FOUNDATION.



peg_688

Chuck what in the Sam hill are you building that needs a , [highlight]looks like[/highlight] , 24" foundation wall :o

It appears you setitng up for a slab on grade pour that ties those rebar into the floor / walls . Also I don't see any straps sticking up and very few foundation bolts  :-/

That lil house needs that foundation? In floor heat? Earthquake engineering ? :-/

How many yards was that pour?   :o   You must have pumped it?I hope ;)

Pala

#15
Heheh.  26"  Port Townsend.  >:( >:(

This started as a monopour with thickend edge measuring: 16" wide, 18" below grade, 8" separation wood to ground.  That's what the engineer wanted, who am I to question.  :-)

So we decided to pour the perimeter first and then backfill with gravel because we have some elevation change that made the inside void so big.

I know I could have done a footing and an 8" wall instead (like Johns floating slab drawing) but going back to the engineer and the city would just be too much hassle.  So we kept all the numbers the same and broke it into two pours.

I have found that the project moves along at my speed and control until I involve the city.  Then all bets are off and break out the loaded dice, who knows what might happen.  I'm pretty sure they are NOT supposed to make arbitrary and capricious decisions.  Doesn't mean mean the won't.

Prime Objective: Final Permit.  Keep your eye on the prize.

Bolts visible are for Simpson PHD2 and 5's, I think those replace straps, and we will drill for anchor bolts and use expansion bolts.

It was about 15.75 yards, $1400.  Whadddayagunnado?

Yep, hydronic radiant in the slab.  We built a chute out of 2x10 to reach the places the trucks chute didn't reach.

peg_688

#16
You might look at using these ,

http://www.simpsonanchors.com/catalog/mechanical/titen-hd/index.html



 Beat Red heads , bore hole , impact drive bolt . Works over here in Island county.

Ya did pump that mud didn't ya  :o Look at the bright side , you avoided any short load charges  ;D

peg_688

#17
I missed the part where you chuted it , we pored 8 1/2 yrds. today, slab on grade ,small room . Nice day to pour not to warm not to cold , 1% cal. she kicked in a couple of hours  ;)

 BTW our concrete com., Norwest, has a big drain pipe , cut in 1/2 thats about 12' long ,they bring it on the truck if you ask . You might check with your supplier they may have one as well , makes it a lil easier/ smoother / lighter than a 2 x10 chute .

glenn-k

Trowel it by hand , PEG or turn a trowel machine loose on it?  About 500 square feet?


Pala

#19
Thanx for the link PEG, I'll see if the inspector's cool with them.  

yep nice day


shows them using those for Hold Down as well.  Next time  ;)


peg_688

QuoteTrowel it by hand , PEG or turn a trowel machine loose on it?  About 500 square feet?



#1:   By hand , we never use a power trowel  ::)  

#2:   168 sqrfeet , thickened at the edges about 8" thick in the field , not worth bring in  fill for that small a hole.  

glenn-k

Oh-- a union crew --- they don't like power trowels. :)  They take away jobs.  Small one like that is not too bad by hand anyway.

Thick floor -- heavy people?   :-/  I can't understand an 8" thick floor for a house.   :)




peg_688

Dug around primeter thickened to about 24" , soil condition bad , left inside grade alone , I think they scrapped off the top soil , or it might have been a old slab under the plastic , I wasn't in on the dig and form setup , I was on another job , well two other jobs really, so I was there about 30 minutes befo the concrete, oiled the forms , got set up for the pour , IE tools out , boots on , hose ready etc . So what is really under the slab now I'm not sure .

Ya we could have dug out all the old stuff hauled it 20 miles , back hauled fill or ran a mixer truck in with stone in it but to save $$$ ya leave the sort of junk  in / under the mono slab.

Even to bring in another truck with pea stone fill would cost more , short load fee's , labor to spread it etc , concrete even thought it is expence in a small job like this speeds up the job , and cost less when used as fill'

Pala job is a totally different deal , he would save $$ by bring that interior area up with some fill , pea stone , small lil rocks is compacted tp IIRC 95 % just as it comes out of the truck , no compaction required nor possible the compactor would just bury itself , the lil stones would just flow around it .

Gotta get to work more later if required.    

Pala

Yep, pea gravel is the "order of the day".  I'm told that there's a shooter attatchement for the truck that will carry it across the perimeter "wall".


glenn-k

I've seen the shooters in action.  Great worksavers.