small house in moab

Started by jan nikolajsen, April 19, 2010, 11:36:48 PM

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UK4X4

In post 43 you show a roof end detail second pic down

with a half cut panel under the side trim

Should'nt the cut side of the panel be bent up a 90 deg underneath the trim ?

To channel water down and off the roof, as if its left flat water can get under the trim and presumably down to the wood etc

jan nikolajsen

UK4X4:

Bending the edge of the last roof panel would be good. In the past on another building without 2' eaves I've attempted this, using channel lock pliers. It was not pretty, and long deformation 'bulges' spread out from the edge. Being a low pitch roof here, that sort of hack work would be clearly visible. I wonder what other tools available to regular folks could bent a neat edge?

Anyway, to stop water from getting to the plywood the plastic roof membrane was wrapped several inches down the fascia trim, and then cut flush with the underside of the trim piece after I installed it.


mountainmomma

#52
I want to say first off that  I  am really enjoying watching the progression of your build. It looks fantastic. [cool] We will likely do a skirting similar to yours.  :)




EDIT: For thread clarity and ease of future reference I removed general question and placed it under General Forum as "Question on wall insulation"
MountainDon

http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=9762.new#new

UK4X4

bending sheet steel is a pain but doable by hand,

Lay sheet steel on flat surface or timber,clamp down another beam or angle iron on top having the lip you want to bend sticking out from the beams, walk along lightly tapping along its whole length moving the steel about a 1/2" per pass, you don't need 90deg a 45 a inch high would be sufficient

don't try one end fully bent 90 and then try going along the length the steel will pull out as you go along and the bendwil become curved.

and don't tell me you don't get heavy rain in Moab !....yep not everyday like the NW , but something eroded all those lovely rock formations ! and canyons !


jan nikolajsen

This is going on right now, to the tune of $500/hour...









phalynx

Progress...  What is your plan for insulation?  Having the seperate stud walls would lead me to believe you will have 2 seperate insulations with an air gap or one continuous insulated space.  If the latter, I cannot imagine what the bill will be to fill it all with foam..   It would be insulated though!

John Raabe

I believe Jan has a double wall framing system to break conduction through framing. There will be a 2nd layer of insulation to fill out to the interior wall finish. Not sure what he will use for that.
None of us are as smart as all of us.

Mike 870


jan nikolajsen

#58
The insulation guys are done. Two days, full on. Good crew, mostly Navajo. And tonight winter is coming with this years first snow!

2000 sq.ft walls with 3 1/2" of SPF foam, then HD R-21 batts. Theoretical total around R-45.

900 sq.ft ceilings with 2" of SPF foam, then 16" of blown in fiberglass. Theoretical total around R-50.

All interior walls and ceilings insulated.

Cost: $8700.

Original plan for walls was 1" SPF foam, then wet spray fiberglass (BIB's). Contractor thought this combo, at roughly the same cost would be more effective. Not having to worry about settling issues is alright with me. Their cost for supplying & installing all those batts was less than my slightly discounted cost for the batts only at the local lumberyard. Then I would have had to spend a couple of days fitting them in, and still not saving anything.


Downstairs living room.

Shop


astidham

Looks like you could heat the place with a candle.
Nice progress!
"Chop your own wood and it will warm you twice"
— Henry Ford

jan nikolajsen

#60
The big candle in the sky is what we hope will do most of the work.

All us DIY's have something we're obsessing about. Insulation is mine.

considerations

Judging from your clothing, you don't need to plug the fridge in yet.  ;D

jan nikolajsen

Today we were hooking up to sewer and water. The sewer connection was somewhere at the 6' level, below gas, power and phone. We dug down and found an 18" gap between gas and power, just enough to gingerly get the bucket down, aided by lots of hand-digging and crossing fingers that we didn't rip any utilities apart.

The whole process was complicated by the termites that months ago had eaten the stake marking the stub out from the main sewer line. An old photo somebody had showed its relative position to the phone and power boxes, so we weren't totally in the dark.


The yellow thing down in the hole is the gas line at 3'. Sewer eventually showed up a 6'


Found it!!


The finished line, gently sloping until the big drop into the pit.

astidham

I want to install cedar trim on my cabin the same as in your picture here, how did you attach it to the house and keep the angle?


"Chop your own wood and it will warm you twice"
— Henry Ford


jan nikolajsen

We are at this point very close to having spent all our funds. This is not a bank loan kinda thing but pay as you go cash. I think we can pull it off to a point where the house is usable, but far from fancy. After all, what's left? Hang some sheet rock, tape and mud, paint, a few fancy floors upstairs, some counters and a couch. What more do we really need?

The account had $70000 in it when we started building.

The insulated concrete stem walls/slab cost $15000. Insulation $8700. Plumber $2500.

The rest I did myself. Just went to the lumberyard and dropped money every morning over the last many months. 140 sheets of plywood. A couple of units of two by fours. $2000 metal roof. $1200 electrical supplies. $2600 window and door package. 140 sheets of drywall. $1100 worth of Hardi-Plank. Water heater, sinks, vents, screws, trim wood, house wrap....

Not to  mention the original $95000 lot, the $5000 sewer 'impact fee', $1000 to have my rough sketches turned into a permit worthy set of drawings.

Never again will I spend that amount of money, so fast, without blinking.

jan nikolajsen

Quote from: astidham on November 11, 2010, 11:01:59 PM
I want to install cedar trim on my cabin the same as in your picture here, how did you attach it to the house and keep the angle?

I nailed on a 2x3, with the 3" side horizontal. The I nailed a 3/4" square batten on top, against the wall. The trim piece got a beveled inside corner, slightly undercut so it would flush against the wall at the top edge. The I screwed it to the 2x3/batten arrangement.

Not the best description, hope you can follow.

astidham

"Chop your own wood and it will warm you twice"
— Henry Ford

speedfunk

cannot go wrong with too much insulation ... ( well to a point i guess lol.  )

your place is looking great jan.  You might be out of cash..but not creativity :) 
having limited funds adds lots of character.




[cool] [cool] [cool]

jan nikolajsen

#68
Moved in!!

We sheet-rocked the future living room on Saturday, cleaned up all the debris and dust on Sunday, and after a wet mop of the floor we set up camp. A blanket over the door opening keeps out the dust from working in the rest of the house. A little electric heater does the job of keeping us warm. We have a two burner propane camping stove, a bucket for a sink, a frost-free hydrant in the yard for water, but there's still, for a few days, a need to use the city park for the other bathroom affairs.

Feels good to be out of the miniature Trillium trailer, after a little more than a year. Especially with the winter season approaching.

The plan now is to finish the bathroom and Bjorn's room. But the race is over. Things will slow down a bit on the construction site as other pressing, but neglected issues are attended to, like mountain biking with my son.


Pine Cone

Congratulations [cool]

The whole project looks great!


MountainDon

Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

LeoinSA

Quote from: jan nikolajsen on November 15, 2010, 10:12:31 AM
Moved in!!

We sheet-rocked the future living room on Saturday, cleaned up all the debris and dust on Sunday, and after a wet mop of the floor we set up camp. A blanket over the door opening keeps out the dust from working in the rest of the house. A little electric heater does the job of keeping us warm. We have a two burner propane camping stove, a bucket for a sink, a frost-free hydrant in the yard for water, but there's still, for a few days, a need to use the city park for the other bathroom affairs.

Near 31 years ago I done did the same thing!  Winter comin' on.  Closed in enough to shelter (the then) wife and baby (he's now 32 with 4 kids of his own!)  All out in the hinterlands of north Idaho.  Weren't much sunshine like you have in Moab, we had lots snow, dry wood and a barrel stove.  Good memories - but I 'spose there were iffy times that I've forgot too. 

All I can say is enjoy this special few weeks/months when you're camping inside.

But the whole project is lookin' real fine! [cool]

jan nikolajsen

Yes, Leo, northern Idaho would be a more severe challenge, and as such a better experience (isn't that how it goes?!?). In fact this latest 'adventure' of ours is pretty tame. While cold, there's little snow, we're in the middle of town, etc.

The biggest danger is the city getting on our case for squatting without a CO.

jan nikolajsen

Used up 4 full 10 hour days taping, mudding and painting just one room, Bjorn's. With a whole house waiting for that treatment I'd say there's job security in this project.

Maybe I'll get faster as I practice more, and maybe those seams will actually disappear at some point down the learning curve...




phalynx

Seams disappear with a little thing called texture! I'll give you credit.  I have tried taping and floating many times and I usually invent new words to yell and find someone else to do it for me..  Your job looks pretty good.