You can go back into the individual post that the pictures did not transfer right and repost the pictures.  Just go to the post that are not right and click "modify"  (upper right of post screen next to remove) That will give you the original posting screen.  Delete the error picture and replace it. Just like you originally did and it should come out correctly.  Since you have several you might want to just delete all the post with the picture error and do one post with all the pictures in it.  Just leave a line break in between the pictures so they do not appear to run together.

Quote from: Remington760-308 on November 12, 2012, 06:18:33 PM

That's a little better . I am clearing for a new driveway at my home(residence) so I am using the trees for my log cabin - I should have enough. I have been saving out the  spruce for my beams.  They are a little stronger with no knots.

Remington.... there should be a "modify" link in the upper right area, above any message you post. You can use that to edit your work.  It appears you have too many / incorrect image tags in those that did not work out.  The line of code from photobucket should have one tag after it.

My son shoots his first buck!  128.6 lbs at 90+ yards. One proud PaPa. I would like to say Thank You to all the land owners out there that give hunters permission to hunt their land. If it wern't for them MEMORIES like these wouldn't happen. THANK YOU

That is one that he will never forget.

That one is bigger than my first buck. Way to go!!!

Composting toilet or bite the bullet and put in  septic system - Toilet used $800 or new $1800 or septic  permit $300 and material $2000? The latter  i can plumb in shower and all faucets?

Quote from: Remington760-308 on November 18, 2012, 11:04:57 AM
Composting toilet or bite the bullet and put in  septic system - Toilet used $800 or new $1800 or septic  permit $300 and material $2000? The latter  i can plumb in shower and all faucets?

IMO the septic would be a better choice.  A couple of reasons come to mind.  Future use of the cabin other than what it was originally intended.  Later expansion and demand.  Resale value.  Cold weather does not affect the septic as it does with some composting units.

As an owner of a composting toilet, located in a cold winter climate and in a building that is unheated when vacant (sporadic use December thru spring time), septic wins hands down unless there is a compelling reason to not have a septic system.

Another pro-septic consideration would be to get grandfathered in with a cheaper, basic gravity septic.  The trend is toward more expensive and complicated system requirements going forward.

    In the back ground of the buck is a rifle that looks like a remington model 760.  Is it  the 308 that is your handle?
I have one that is a good fast rifle with a red dot scope on it.

 ;)Yup gotta love the fastest- lightest -nimblest-well balanced 760- in 308 carbine. I have 1 thats a 760 carbine in 30-06, with Leupod 1.5-7 with quick removable rings and peep, # 2 760 30-06 with ghost site with barrel cut down # 3 760 308 carbine Leupold 3-9x40 . I have one for every weather condition. I have shot quite a few deer with these. I use to use a 270 Weatherby Vanguard but follow up shots were hard too do. My sons gun is A Ruger M77 in 243 with tang safety. He is left handed. He's been shooting since he was 5. He has shot 3 deer in the last 3 years so far 2-does 148lbs each and this spike. He also turkey hunts. He has shot 4 turkey 1st one 18.6lbs 2nd one 18.2 lbs 3rd one 13.5lbs and the one he shot this year 22.2 lbs 10.5" beard 1" spurs- he's having that one mounted. He a damn good shot too!!!!!!!!! Very Proud of him and his hunting ability's

alright lets get back to building . I logged some more today. I am almost done. I have like another 15 trees too cut. The guy with the portable sawmill is biting at the bit to start. But I haven't shot my deer yet My brother saw a nice buck in my dads field next door last night. atleast an 8 he said. Gonna post pics soon where i have cut the logs from.  Now the dreaded peeling of the d-logs will start.  I saw a log peeler disc that goes on an electric grinder - just wondering if anybody has tried it? it's 400 bucks worth it or not?

Quote from: Remington760-308 on November 20, 2012, 08:37:31 PM
alright lets get back to building . I logged some more today. I am almost done. I have like another 15 trees too cut. The guy with the portable sawmill is biting at the bit to start. But I haven't shot my deer yet My brother saw a nice buck in my dads field next door last night. atleast an 8 he said. Gonna post pics soon where i have cut the logs from.  Now the dreaded peeling of the d-logs will start.  I saw a log peeler disc that goes on an electric grinder - just wondering if anybody has tried it? it's 400 bucks worth it or not?

I would say that you are out of the window (time of year) for the bark to come off easily.  Normally when the sap is up is the best time.  I used a draw knife for the majority of my work.  Larger logs can be done as well but maybe a combination of different tools.  Might start with a mattock, axe to loosen one end.  Then use a barnyard scrapper. I have even used a square pointed shovel.   Keep the draw knife handy as there will be small portions that continue to be stubborn.

Anyone used an electric hand planer to debark a pine tree?  I see they sell the curved ones for 450 bucks but what about a cheap one-two blade planer?

Quote from: Remington760-308 on November 25, 2012, 05:30:04 PM
Anyone used an electric hand planer to debark a pine tree?  I see they sell the curved ones for 450 bucks but what about a cheap one-two blade planer?

Never seen one used that way.  I think I would try to old way and just see how it goes.  Might not be as bad as you think.

Too irregular for a power planer even with the front shoe completely removed. Planers hate green wood as well. Drawknife, spud or slick, felling or broad axe and lots of elbow grease. If you are buddies with a stationary mill they might toss them in the debarker for you but that takes some of the character away and requires drawknifing to clean up the damage. You would do well to have a power planer to run down the center bottom of the logs when stacking, they will dry with convex faces, plowing a relief on the bottom will allow them to stack on the outer edges rather than teetering on rounded faces. I have the chainsaw disc for the grinder that does a good job for carving, knots and fitup, only use it on a grinder with a paddle switch. My wife dropped it in a workbasket while up in the air one time with a on off switch grinder, it chased her all over the place.

I see you mentioned a chainsaw disc. Or did you mean the aluminum log peeler disc with the three planer blades. I was wondering how these worked and are they worth the 475.00

I think this is what he was talking about.

http://compare.ebay.com/like/310464657682?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar

Yup, that's the one I have John. I don't use it to debark. We use it on areas that a drawknife doesn't work well like around knots. We also use it to quickly skim wood out of the way when starting to tune up a joint. All depending, I'll often finish up that kind of work with a 40 grit grinder sanding disc. There's also a planer head that bolts to a chainsaw, it is really just a power planer cutterhead with no shoes front or rear. It's better than a power planer, I tried one and didn't feel a need.
http://www.loghomestore.com/c163-log-wizard-log-master.php?gclid=CNnGtq-d7rMCFSpnOgodHAwA2w
I think debarking will go faster the old way. If you're not used to a drawknife, avoid banging into knots real hard, you were born with one set of wrists and forearms and the knots will win by the end of the day. That's where I use the grinder or planer or lightly sweep the chainsaw to hog off protruding knots first. Crossing them at a shear angle with the kife to clean up helps.

I might be preaching to the chior but here's a few tricks I've learned along the way.
It sounds like you are sawing 3 sides to make a D log and peeling the 4th side. The major drying check tends to follow the shortest path from heart to edge... whichever face is closest to the heart tends to be the face with the biggest check when things are done drying. When the logs are fresh off the mill, before they begin to dry and develop any stress from that. you can run a skillsaw down the middle the length of the bottom face to encourage the biggest check to happen there. Stay under 1/4 thickness with the rip, as the wood dries this gives a stress relief sort of like scoring a concrete slab and the worst check is then hopefully facing down and covered. Dry on 2" thick stickers as long as possible and run the power planer down the center bottom while you are stacking to help them bed. Foam tape fits in that planed relief well without holding you up or being crushed.

When you stack the logs, smooth and plumb on the inside, look at the natural edge on the outside. You want drip edges rather than water catching ledges. I'll scribe those underhangs, remove the new log, drawknife the offending ledge off the lower log until it is behind the edge of the log above. Think like a raindrop all the time.

edit, found an old pic that shows the same concept on a double D log. 1st is a fresh sawn flat log, 2nd is the major check forming where the heart is closest to an edge and the convex faces of a dried timber. Third pic is the power planed relief that allows the logs to fit tight along the outer edges.


Also came across this debarking article from the website above;
http://www.loghomestore.com/article.php?article=9

Quote from: Don_P on November 25, 2012, 06:16:00 PM
Too irregular for a power planer even with the front shoe completely removed. Planers hate green wood as well. Drawknife, spud or slick, felling or broad axe and lots of elbow grease. If you are buddies with a stationary mill they might toss them in the debarker for you but that takes some of the character away and requires drawknifing to clean up the damage. You would do well to have a power planer to run down the center bottom of the logs when stacking, they will dry with convex faces, plowing a relief on the bottom will allow them to stack on the outer edges rather than teetering on rounded faces. I have the chainsaw disc for the grinder that does a good job for carving, knots and fitup, only use it on a grinder with a paddle switch. My wife dropped it in a workbasket while up in the air one time with a on off switch grinder, it chased her all over the place.

I peeled (with help) 80, sixty foot EWP for my house with a spud.  Not the worst job ever.  You will have the grip strength of a weight lifter when you are finished, but your shoulders and wrists should still be intact.  If you are cutting now, wait until late spring to peel.

      Started sawing my timber into d-logs today   We got 21-22logs sawed. Considering it was 12 degrees I was sweating all day. The kids and wife came out to help a few times. They built a fire to keep warm. Only pinched one finger today. I think I broke it - it is all black and swollen. Gonna continue Monday morning - should get in 7-8 hours of sawing in. [/img][/img][/img][/img]

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martinbus@kingcon.com is doing the sawing. SO FAR SO GOOD> he is located  in Sheffield ,VT 1-802-626-3480

Sawed some more logs . Good thing I didn't buy a sawmill my self. The Woodmizer that he uses is all hydraulic. WHEW!!!  We where sawing the logs 6x6 - now we are sawing them 6 high but 7 1/5 deep. Now we have some really nice logs that will sit on top of each other with no concern of stability. We have been sawing for 3 days and now 2/3 done. Also glad I have a tractor to move the logs around and too remove the logs and beams when done to make room for more!!!