Cabin project in east washington

[diyfrank]

Hi everyone, I'm a newbie to the site. Just wanted to introduce myself. I'm frank,
I've been doing some reading here. I'm planning a small hunting cabin in ferry county this next spring. The property has some awesome views and the wildlife is abundant. There's no power or water. The land has between 0 and 30% slopes, lots of bed rock. It's a 6 hour drive from where I live. It gets cold, windy & snow for 6 months. 3500 ft elevation. It has its challenges to overcome.
I'm keeping it simple. A 16 x 20 with one wall and 16 x 10 loft.
It will sit on 6x6 treated posts  3 ft in the ground and filled with concrete 2x12 floor joists 2x6 studs 2x10 rafters and 4x12 ridge beam
I have my lumber package, windows and doors.
Still looking for metal roof and siding. your Suggestion welcomed.
I met with the county planner. I have a plan in mind and what he wants, I can't do with the software I bought. 
I'm going to try and draw them up. Paper work is my biggest weakness. 

[rwanders]

Do you know what sort of snow load you will have to deal with?  How about roof pitch?  12/12 would not only give you more headroom in the loft and more usable loft floor space but, it would also help with snow loads by shedding snow before it gets very heavy. Will it be a four season cabin or will it hibernate over the winter?  If a 3 season place heating capacity will obviously be much reduced. I definitely like metal roofing----the most economical is probably plain galvanized corrugated roofing. It comes in various gauge weights. If you browse both the general and projects forums you will find many answers----and the plans section may reveal ready made plans that can be easily customized to fit your specific desires.

Welcome to the forums!!

[diyfrank]

I don't remember what the county planer came up with for snow load but I was thinking 9 /12  pitch. He seemed like that was good. I could go more but I may have to make changes to my lumber.  in the winter it can bury a 55 gallon drum with snow up there. Most everyone has metal roofs, and thats what I was thinking also. It will see off and on use may through November. Its 2 miles in from the county road which means snow mobile or snow plow for winter use but, hey. If the economy doesn't straighten out I may be doing a 4 season stay.

I will check out the forums for more ideas.
water heating etc.

[MountainDon]

  aboard frank. I agree that a metal roof is best. We used 26 gauge.

When you say "6x6 treated posts, 3 ft in the ground and filled with concrete", do you mean pouring concrete in the hole around the posts?  That might not be the best or even necessary. Concrete poured around wood can trap moisture against the wood. Even if it is PT I don't like the idea of that. We used an 8 inch thick, steel reinforced pored concrete footing, with the 6x6 posts resting on that. I back filled the holes with stone, pumice actually, as we have loads of it. We're located in the shadow of a dormant volcano. 

Looking forward to seeing your progress

[diyfrank]

Hi Don, I agree filling the post holes with concrete might no be the best way to go.  The county inspector gave me 3 choices.

  In order of his preference:

1 Pour a concrete foundation

Too costly, especially when I would have to restore 2 miles of road to get a concrete truck to it.

2  6x6 posts set 3 feet deep and backfilled with concrete. min 12" dia.

3 12" sono tube 3' in the ground with 2 #4 bar on a 18" x 8" footing

Or, Build under 300 sq ft. without a permit

His reasoning is: when the wind blows, buildings not anchored to the ground become scattered.
He says he sees it every year.  I want to keep him happy.

26 gauge metal..  Writing it down.  Does anyone know where to purchase from for the best price?

[MountainDon]

Yeah, you got to keep the inspector happy. 


As for best prices on metal, that's going to vary from place to place. All I can suggest to to check around. I started by asking a local builder who did a lot of homes with metal roofs. They were more than helpful and even gave me the names of a couple of their contract installers.

[Squirl]

Here is a good start on prices for metal roofing.
http://www.polebarnsonline.com/

If you can't find it cheaper locally, you can buy it online.  You can sometimes use the online prices for negotiating a better price.  Also check craigslist.org.  I have found it as cheap as $20 per sheet for 40" x 30'. 

[considerations]

If you are feeling really "scrappy"  - try locating the roll forming companies, the ones that buy the flat steel on rolls and form the ridges and cut it to length.  If you find one reasonably close, you can call and ask about "tongues and tails".  They are the first and last end pieces of a roll after its been formed into roofing and siding.   

The downside? The lengths can vary.  The roll former needs to be willing to sort to get you uniform or compatible patterns.  The colors will vary.

Sometimes you can get lucky though and land a quantity of sheets cut to the wrong length for an order, or the wrong color or forming pattern was used and the order was rejected and returned.

The upside?  Some roll formers are delighted to get rid of this irregular stock for their material cost or less. If they are making more $'s than they would from selling it as scrap and you come and get it they may like the idea. 

Just a thought.  (from the princess of scavenging)

[diyfrank]

squire,
I haven't checked craigslist yet, I'll check the listings before buying anything. There are Some great deals if you keep watching.
Thanks for that link.  If I did it right I'm looking at around $800. To buy from them.

MountainDon & considerations
I'm in the construction industry so I can ask around. I've got almost all my supplies from builders Ive done work for so far.
I won't buy tell Its almost free. lol

Thanks for your suggestion, I like to look everywhere I can for a deal.

[diyfrank]

I tried to post a picture but It wouldn't let me

Is that something thats beyond the scope of a newbie with 10 posts?

[MountainDon]

The "attach" feature is disabled. All the images you see are hosted on a photo service site. There are a number available for free. Some of us like Photobucket. There's a how-to tutorial in the Forum News section.

[glenn kangiser]

Not a problem.  Post the pic to Photobucket first for storage then copy the bottom tag that starts with IMG and paste it here into your message.  Control C - will copy the tag when it is highlighted.  Photobucket just downgraded a bit so it is a bit harder than before otherwise you can click on the picture in Photobucket and copy the bottom tag on the page with the single picture.

[diyfrank]

Ok, This will be the before pic. looking to the north where I plan on building.

[diyfrank]

It took a few trys to get the hang of it
A look to the west


And a look to the east

[glenn kangiser]

Aye, carumba, Frank -- that's a bear.  Dang it --- my Mexican is slipping in there again....   Sorry... just practicing.

Nice country, Frank. 

[Redoverfarm]

Frank when to you anticipate getting started?  You will have a great view after a little thinning and pruning.  I think I would leave the bear there if he wants to stay.

[soomb]

Where about are you?  My wife and I have an offer on land in Addy (near Colville)

[diyfrank]

Ya, He's a nice looking bear.

We want to start on it this spring when it thaws.
I'll have some thinning to do but it should have a nice view.  

[diyfrank]

Where about are you?  My wife and I have an offer on land in Addy (near Colville)

Were in curlew.
Its a nice area, but not much for work .

[soomb]

Its a nice area, but not much for work .

I can imagine.  We are facing that issue with looking to relocate and build, not much in my field in those areas.

[Woodswalker]

Welcome to the Forum and to Curlew Country.  Got a hoot out of the pic with the bruin.  I've been working on a cabin the same size as yours overlooking L. Curlew, on Ed Hill, off of Redmond Rd., for the past two summers.  The inspector is pretty easy to deal with.  Get him talking deer hunting, if you've got the time.  If you lop 20 sqft off your cabin footprint, you wouldn't need a permit, and could install whatever footings/posts you want.  I concur with Don's advice - that's basically what I did.

Steve 

[diyfrank]

Howdy Woodswalker ,

Yours is 16 x 20?

I just read through your thread on it.  Looking good!

I have met the inspector, and I agree he seems easy going. And yes I did get on the subject of deer. He has a picture in his office of a deer his dad or grampa (I forget) shot. The thing was huge, got it in Keller. He tried talking me into keeping it to 300 sq ft or smaller and not getting a permit. 
He added in all the floor space. Building footprint, loft & porch and came up with  320(floor)  + 160 (loft) + 80 (porch) = 560

The permit wasn't much, Somewhere around $125.

I may try to go with 300 for now. 15X19 may be alright and expand later If I get feeling crowded.

Wow, looks like I'll have a few forum members for neighbors over there.

[diyfrank]

A lot of snow this week has left me at home with time to work on my plans.

Here's what I have going.



ED: repaired photo link - MD

[diyfrank]

What I have for a floor plan






ED: repaired photo link - MD

[MountainDon]

Just a couple of thoughts...

Looking at that 4x4 PT brace in the first image. It would provide better stiffness if the one end was attached to the lower end of the middle post as pictured, but then having the upper end attach to a floor joist. That would provide a triangle which is stronger than the trapezoid as illustrated.

I wonder about the necessity of the 3020 window by the door? If you used a door with a window in it that would provide light in the entry. That would also allow a full 4 foot sheathing panel to reinforce the side wall.

What's the heat source going to be?