14x24 Cabin help with pics?

[rdzone]

They do make a 2"x6" T&G for floors in pine, which would work and looks nice.

[Redoverfarm]

Since the underpart of the loft will be visible, do you know if they make a product thats t&g and looks good from underneath? im thinking something that looks like the t&g pine you'd throw on the walls but used for flooring? almost like a plank type I could use directly on the joists?

That is what I put in my loft.  The bottom side is the ceiling and the top is the loft floor.  It is 2X6 pine T&G V groove.  The V groove is only visible on the ceiling side.




If I can find them I have some pictures of the top/loft floor.

OK I found them.

[mand0092]

That is exactly what im looking for! can you buy it at a home depot/lowes/menards? or do you have to order it from an actual lumber yard?

Thanks!

What kind of stain did you put on it? looks great!

[John_M]

This is not the best picture I have...but I bought the T&G flooring from an Amish Mill near my cabin.  It is real beefy....I think 1 3/4 inches thick!

I'm not sure if you can get this stuff at Home Depot or Lowes??

[Squirl]

At 16" on center lumber (as apposed to plywood) floor sheathing needs to be 5/8 thick and is not required to be tongue and groove.  Thicker and tongue and groove is better.

http://publicecodes.citation.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_5_sec003.htm

[Redoverfarm]

That is exactly what im looking for! can you buy it at a home depot/lowes/menards? or do you have to order it from an actual lumber yard?

Thanks!

What kind of stain did you put on it? looks great!

You can probably get it at Lowes or Home  Depot but it will probably have to be ordered.  A regular lumber yard will be your best bet.

As for the stain.  The ceiling side is a pickled finish or whitewash and the Floor(loft) is a walnut stain.   A word to the wise is that the V-groove is milled to the best side being the "V groove" side.  The flat side will not draw tightly together as well and their might be some minor gaps. 

[Redoverfarm]

I sent you a PM on your flooring.

[oifmarine]

You can get it at Menards and Home Depot.  Menards is almost always cheaper and it goes on sale at Menards every couple of weeks.  Never pay more than .55 or .60 lf.  I got mine at .49 lf.  It comes in 1x6 and 1x8, I believe.

[Redoverfarm]

For 2X T&G that you would use on your floor you can look to pay twice the price of 1X T&G.  I paid $.90 for mine but that was several years ago.

[mand0092]

Working on installing the Windows this weekend and doors. I've priced out siding/trim....had no idea it was going to be that pricey!

Thinking about just sticking the the windows/doors/metal roof this month and hopefully getting to the siding/trim towards the end of the summer. It's all wrapped in Typar right now and has only been up for 3 weeks. It should be fine for a few more months right?

[mand0092]

I was able to get father on the cabin this month and installed the windows and sliding door a couple weeks ago. Here is a picture of the outside (still need to frame in the front door).


Here is a Picture of the windows from the inside.


And here is a picture of the new steel roof that was finished just yesterday. Apparently it's almost impossible to install a steel roof on a 12/12 pitch.... It was absolutely horrible installing the sheething so I had some brave friends who are in construction install the metal roofing for me.

[mand0092]

My progress has come to a stand still.....Im waiting on the siding,soffits and facia....not sure if I should go vinyl or hardie board. I was able to find some decently thick .046 vinyl for about $70/sq....I can't explain in words how over budget I am already and I don't even have the exterior finished much less started anything in the interior....

I think next time I think about starting a project anywhere close to this one, i'll multiply the estimate by 2 just in case.

[Squirl]

Not a bad place to take a break.  Looks like it should be just fine for a while.

[alex trent]

You got a lot done in these months since you started (working at night).  Once the outside is done, the inside will be more relaxing to do and you can do it a bit more on your timeframe. Looks great so far.

[EaglesSJ]

Looks like everything is moving along pretty fast. Excellent job. Wise decision on fixing those beams early on.

[mand0092]

Thank you everyone for the kind responses. I am pleased to say I have ordered the siding (hardie board), trim, soffits and facea and will hopefully have it installed by the end of July. With that finished I will be completely done with the exterior and will be moving inside to finish it off. I will post pictures when it progresses.

[mand0092]

Just had the Siding, Soffits, Facia and trim delivered. My inspector is telling me though that since I ran my exterior sheething horizontal vs verticle i need to put blocking on the seams between the studs...has anyone heard of this before? he wants me to toe nail it onto the studs as well as nail it from the outside through the blocking....we're talking a considerable amount of time and cutting so I wasn't sure if this was code or if he was just being a complete douche.


Thanks

[Squirl]

Yes, I did it in mine. It took about 1.5 hours per wall for the 30 ft walls. It is not required under most building codes.  It is usually only required in high wind and seismic activity areas.  If unblocked and you can't find plywood that extends from the top plate to the rim joist, sheathing is supposed to be run horizontally in running bond.  There are provisions in the code against running some sheathing vertically.
There are some footnotes that specifically state if sheathing is run perpendicular to framing members (horizontal for roofing) that blocking is not required.
http://publicecodes.citation.com/icod/irc/2012/icod_irc_2012_6_sec002_par006.htm

It may be worth it to ask the code provision he is citing too. Sometimes with a little pushback and knowledge, requirements become recommendations.

I did it in my building, because it didn't take long (4-5 hours), was cheap ($30), and the shear strength difference dramatic.  From memory, the AWC high wind and seismic activity guide, unblocked sheathing can have 125 lbs per ln ft shear strength, where blocked and 2" nailing patterns can get 1800 lbs per ln ft shear strength.

If you want to read the numbers for yourself you can find it here:
http://www.awc.org/pdf/2008WindSeismic.pdf
As you can see from p.9, if he tries to tell you that running unblocked sheathing parallel (vertically) to the studs is stronger, he is full of $#!+.  In almost every instance running it horizontally is three times as strong.

[chris2013]

...I can't explain in words how over budget I am already and I don't even have the exterior finished much less started anything in the interior....


i am enjoying reading about your progress.  if i might ask, what is your budget?

[mand0092]

My budget when I started this project was $5,000. But then I started adding and adding and adding and adding. it was basically just going to be a large shed with a couple windows. Now it's a full fledge cabin with a lot of upgrades. Im hoping to have the covered porch installed, the electrical run and the insulation and interior completed for under 15k now. Which will be very tight.

I got an absolutely fantastic deal on the steel roof, the roofers, the hardi board and the siders so that was nice (but still expensive and came out to about my original budget just for that).

Im not running any plumbing right now, and will probably hold off on finishing the inside for at least a couple months. My ambition and drive far exceeded the balance of my checking account

[mand0092]

Here are a few pics of the new front door and the siding/trim/soffits/facea being installed.

[Don_P]

If you want to read the numbers for yourself you can find it here:
http://www.awc.org/pdf/2008WindSeismic.pdf
As you can see from p.9, if he tries to tell you that running unblocked sheathing parallel (vertically) to the studs is stronger, he is full of $#!+.  In almost every instance running it horizontally is three times as strong.

Stepping backwards for a minute. It depends. That table is for out of plane loading, typically the framing is designed for <30 psf in that direction. Yes it is important and those high numbers for the sheathing look good, but, the strength in plane is the greatest concern in a brace or shear wall. The reason usually given for running vertically is fewer seams are unblocked or fewer blocked seams are needed, or if the sheets are long enough, no blocking is needed to get good shear strength. Unblocked vertically is stronger in shear than unblocked horizontal. I block all seams and not enjoying blocking, I run vertically.  Highest ultimate strength is horizontal with all seams blocked.

[alex trent]

Let's hope he reads this before he sees the inspector again.

Am i correct..out of plane is against the wall and in plane is parallel to it...to prevent racking?  If that is correct, out of  plane is taken care of by the sheering on the perpendicular wall?

[Don_P]

Yes, out of plane is the wind blowing against the face of the house bowing the studs inward. You can look it up in the tables in chapter 3 what the wind loads are per square foot in your area... and on different parts of the house.

Anyway, the wall facing the wind is pretty much like a floor.  Prescriptively the stud span is usually under 10', the top and bottom are braced by a floor and ceiling diaphragm. The floor and ceiling collect the load from the windward wall and hand it to the stiff places, the braced walls that are perpendicular to the windward wall, in line with the wind. They are taking the load in plane, down the length of the wall. The sheets of plywood well attached to the studs to prevent buckling act as a great racking restraint. The nails attaching ply to studs are in shear, much stronger than withdrawal, the 30 psf trying to suck the ply out of plane off the leeward side. If the wind quarters the structure the bending and bracing action is shared by both sets of walls. The floor delivers these pushing, horizontal loads to the foundation walls and then the ground.

But practically speaking a chain breaks at the weakest link. When we focus on one thing and forget another the building is only as strong as what we let slide in the weakest place.

[mand0092]

Here is the N side of the building completed with Soffits and Facea. The whole exterior should be completed by the end of the week (weather depending).