To notch or not to notch

[UK4X4]

With my land issues we are looking at doing a garage first on helical piers and see what happens while we vacation in the 5th wheel

24x26 with an upper storage area.../apartment

It will be on 8" block walls 18" up from floor level in the lower section- then standard 2x6 framing.

I'm high snow load area and would rather not notch the upright studs for the upper floor.

I was thinking of doing a 8" baseplate -running full 2x6 framing all the way and running 2x2 up the lower section to support the upper floor ledger, nailed or screwed

yes its a little more timber - but is it code ?

The other is to do platform framing - but its only a 4ft upper wall I'm after for the storage /apartment/ studio- what ever gets a permit !

I like the idea of full length studs for the strength -rather than the platform- but I can go either way

[MountainDon]

Regular rafters or trusses?  Trusses would be a good solution as they can be designed to provide a partial width room with good headroom and not transmit any horizontal forces to the sidewalls. Then you could platform frame with no problems.

[UK4X4]

yes - sorry will be going with trusses - snow load conciderations again

due to the movement issues, present plans are to seperate the 2 story / basement into two seperate lighter constructions- yes initially it will cost more, but will probably have less issues down the road, ie two smaller lighter constructions than 1 hefty building

here's the basics of todays garage plans- truss outline is one based on one I found on the site- but can't remember the thread- high snow load area single story .

the 18" concrete gives me a good height garage door and keeps the wood framing /siding higher up out of the snow

[Redoverfarm]

yes - sorry will be going with trusses - snow load conciderations again

Attic trusses can be made to give you what you are looking for.  I paid I think $105 for 26ft w/1' overhang.  With 26' I ended up with 12' room, 5' kneewall and about 7' storage behind them on both sides.

You have figured what your alternatives are.  Just throw out another one.  2X8 wall studs then 2X6 kneewalls on top of the plate which will also have your 2nd floor joist resting on them. 

[new land owner]

yes - sorry will be going with trusses - snow load conciderations again

due to the movement issues, present plans are to seperate the 2 story / basement into two seperate lighter constructions- yes initially it will cost more, but will probably have less issues down the road, ie two smaller lighter constructions than 1 hefty building

here's the basics of todays garage plans- truss outline is one based on one I found on the site- but can't remember the thread- high snow load area single story .

the 18" concrete gives me a good height garage door and keeps the wood framing /siding higher up out of the snow



Is this the trusses design you were looking for?

http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=10671.0

[UK4X4]

yep thats the ones - needed to give credit - did a search and could not find the thread !

I need a little more height inside though as its a room rather than a ceiling - just need to send rough design to a local truss company in CO and see what they come up with - need to get the design a little more detailed first with correct velux sizes etc

[JRR]

I would choose the 2x8' full height with the vertical 2x4 "supports" ... a style of balloon framing.  Have you considered a grambrel-raftered roof system?  Creates more usable space.  But it doesn't suit everyone.

[Don_P]

This is a cantilevered attic truss, 2' overhangs with the roof springing from the overhang, 5' kneewalls, 14' room. I've ganged up trusses on each side of dormers that popped out of the roof on each side to make room for a bed and bath in these. Don't forget that you need an exit that does not go through the garage.

[Squirl]

It will be on 8" block walls 18" up from floor level in the lower section- then standard 2x6 framing.

7.625 Block + .375 mortar + 7.625 Block + .375 mortar = 16".  How are you going to get the extra 2"?

[Squirl]

I was thinking of doing a 8" baseplate -running full 2x6 framing all the way and running 2x2 up the lower section to support the upper floor ledger, nailed or screwed

yes its a little more timber - but is it code ?

It is up to your inspector, but I would say probably not.  The 2x6 part of the wall is, but what about the 2x2?  Is that considered the same wall because it is the same bottom plate or two seperate walls because it is two separate studs?  IIRC, you are not allowed to have a 2x2 interior wall by code and the spacing is different for load bearing walls in 2x3 and 2x4.

Code aside, around here a single 2x8 is cheaper than a 2x6 and 2x2 combined.

[NM_Shooter]

Ditto... use a 2x8 and notch it.

[UK4X4]

7.625 Block + .375 mortar + 7.625 Block + .375 mortar = 16".  How are you going to get the extra 2"?

The walls are connected to the foundation, the garage floor floats between - so it can be any height above the floor, I won't be limited to brick height.

I don't have all the details yet on the foundation - I need to finish the dwgs a little more before I give to the helical people
as I want this adjustable from day one.

I was thinking about nailing the 2x2 to the 2x6 to support the ledger

But if notching an 8" is good for code - the extra cost is not an issue- and extra insulation I'm sure I'll apreciate down the road

Exit wise - yes the velux should be big enough to meet code- for egress -when I decifer their website