The V-bar chains from these guys would do the job.

http://www.tirechain.com/TRUCK-SUV-CHAINS.HTM

Mounting them on a Cherokee can be a problem. I have the stock rims with 32 x 11.5 x 15 tires. I do not have enough clearance between the sidewall chain and the rear leaf springs to allow the wheels to turn. A wheel with different backspacing would solve that problem. In the front I have a similar clearance problem. With the stock rims the tires rub the control arms at almost full steering lock. With chains that would be very bad. I believe greater backspacing would also solve that. However, I haven't looked any further than the theory. Chains would not help us right now at all. It's the depth of snow, last reported to be 30+ inches. A skinnier tire would be helpful as well; tall and skinny is good for snow.

Quote from: OlJarhead on January 25, 2010, 02:42:02 PM

Quote from: MountainDon on January 25, 2010, 01:36:35 PM
F&R chains would have been nice.  Too bad

I was wondering how much they would help on sheer ice?  On the way down I hit a spot that kicked me into the old ruts and shot me down 500 feet of mountain road with no (to very little) control!  I told the boys to hang on and away we went like a toboggan ride from hell!

That was scary.

So it's either serious studs or some kind of chains that will get me up and down without issue.

I have a set of what Don posted and they are great.  When my road was nothing but sheer ice they worked good up or down the hill.  I found though with going down hill it was better to keep at a constant speed (low) and not give it a chance to slide.  I never really had to worry either way though.  You might look at this post on a simple little aid for chains.  They work great.

http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=3613.msg81071#msg81071

Thanks and Thanks

I've used chains once (when pulling sleds up to 5000 feet)....looks like it's time to get some!

Funny thing, I used to have two sets for my last jeep but gave them away becuase I never needed them -- now they wouldn't work anyway though, since my tires are bigger now.

Anyway, I've got 31x10.5x15's with over an inch cut out of the fenders, Rusty's flares, 8" rims that are offset to the outside so all is well there -- the only issue I see is that I lack a little clearance at the seem for the front rockers -- need to cut an inch out of there too.

But it sounds like chains are the answer and if I could drive all the way up then maybe, just maybe, I can get my door on!

Cheers

    That was quite a ride!  Makes me nervous just thinking about it   

Quote from: Sassy on January 25, 2010, 05:14:47 PM
  That was quite a ride!  Makes me nervous just thinking about it   

It was quite the ride indeed -- pucker factor all the way down!

Planning my next trip!  Going to pick up parts to get the chimney installed as well as the door and perhaps the remaining roof en gabled end walls

I figure it's time to get the air nailer and get busy!

Of course we'll need chains to get there but this time we mean business!  I'm planning Feb 20th for the next trip so lots of time to get prepped.

Always exciting though, to plan and get moving again -- in this case I've learned that I need to install chimney brackets and stuff into the framing of the roof and then sheet over them for a more watertight roof around the chimney and the stabilizer brackets   Was good to learn -- I spent about an hour with an installer turned salesmen at our local wood stove shop and learned a bunch.  But still have tons of questions:

1.  When installing the wood stove wall penetrations isn't it better to side the wall first?

2.  When installing windows in walls sheeted with OSB and sided with T1-11 wouldn't it best to sheet the wall first too?

More to follow I'm sure.

Quote from: OlJarhead on February 01, 2010, 01:01:30 PM

2.  When installing windows in walls sheeted with OSB and sided with T1-11 wouldn't it best to sheet the wall first too?

Here's the order I used.....

wall studs <> OSB sheathing <> building paper <> windows <> flashing <> siding

Your #1.... I'm not sure.... thinking.....        Are you going to use a metal thimble?  Or...??

http://www.selkirkcorp.com/search-results.aspx?query=through%20wall

Quote from: MountainDon on February 01, 2010, 01:23:50 PM

Quote from: OlJarhead on February 01, 2010, 01:01:30 PM

2.  When installing windows in walls sheeted with OSB and sided with T1-11 wouldn't it best to sheet the wall first too?

Here's the order I used.....

wall studs <> OSB sheathing <> building paper <> windows <> flashing <> siding

Your #1.... I'm not sure.... thinking.....        Are you going to use a metal thimble?  Or...??

Metal Thimble?  Not sure what you are asking.

The windows (Vinyl Low-E) were installed after sheeting our addition here at home, then I added trim over that which nicely met the windows to give a flush appearance to the window trim.  I'll take a picture.

Anyway, so my take is that you install the siding first unless using lap siding.  In the case of lap siding you install the windows and trim and then install the lap.

Quote from: MountainDon on February 01, 2010, 01:23:50 PM

Quote from: OlJarhead on February 01, 2010, 01:01:30 PM

2.  When installing windows in walls sheeted with OSB and sided with T1-11 wouldn't it best to sheet the wall first too?

Here's the order I used.....

wall studs <> OSB sheathing <> building paper <> windows <> flashing <> siding

Your #1.... I'm not sure.... thinking.....        Are you going to use a metal thimble?  Or...??

DOH!  hehe you were talking about the stove pipe not the window.

Yes, metal thimble / wall penetration -- which I think can be installed before the siding just like the roof penetration I'll be using.

Quote from: MountainDon on February 01, 2010, 01:29:01 PM
http://www.selkirkcorp.com/search-results.aspx?query=through%20wall

Looks like I should finish that wall before making that penetration and installing the stove pipe.  Which is ok -- it's interesting to consider the options.

For the roof penetration, since it's outside the cabin in the lookout I don't have to have a box etc installed, just a roof penetration / thimble? that allows for the 12x12 pitch.  Then depending on the height of the pipe above it might need support brackets and metal braces -- which is likely since I'm off center by about 3 feet.

I'll be playing with this a lot over the next few weeks while we prep for the trip becuase I want to finish the roof off and now know to start with the wall the stoves on too

Just updated my drawings a little.

Here you can see the outside of the west wall (14') and the inside (sort of)...I wanted to show the stove pipe run and where the penetration will be as well as the loft, collar ties and a few other things.

Since John has commented on the rafter ties section I'll add hurricane ties to each rafter to help secure them to the wall.  Incidentally, I find the only way to install them is to nail them to the top of the wall and to the rafter rather then down the wall -- since doing that puts them in sheeting only at the bottom -- maybe it's just me?

If there is a better way, or a better tie I would be happy to see it -- I'm using 2x6 rafters on a 2x6 wall so with the birdsmouth there is still a ledge on top of the wall.

Sometimes I wonder if I should just scrap the catwalk and put in a couple heavy beams or logs across the top of the wall (secured to rafters) to provide some kind of rafter ties.

I've been worrying a little about this becuase I've got the 2' knee wall and for some reason thought the loft joists were all I needed....and collar ties.

So, what to do?

re: TIRE CAHINS

http://www.tirechainsrequired.com/
http://www.tirechainsrequired.com/atv-tire-chains.html

I got my chains from these folks. Got them on the truck and all four ATV wheels. V-bar diamond on the rear & V-bar 2 link on the fronts
Four inches of dried oak leaves feels just like wet ice going downhill with a load of wood.

Quote from: Minicup28 on February 02, 2010, 12:05:33 PM
re: TIRE CAHINS

http://www.tirechainsrequired.com/
http://www.tirechainsrequired.com/atv-tire-chains.html

I got my chains from these folks. Got them on the truck and all four ATV wheels. V-bar diamond on the rear & V-bar 2 link on the fronts
Four inches of dried oak leaves feels just like wet ice going downhill with a load of wood.

Thanks -- out of stock.

I checked them about a week ago -- same deal, Out of stock.  Might have to check Les Swab and see what they have since I'm planning my next trip!

Check these... in stock as of right now

http://tirechain.com/31X10.50-15LT.htm

Quote from: MountainDon on February 02, 2010, 12:26:33 PM
Check these... in stock as of right now

http://tirechain.com/31X10.50-15LT.htm

Thanks Don! 

Played with Google Sketchup7 to make this.  It's pretty close though I'm pretty new to using it.

one thing I found was that building the outside dimensions first makes it tough to add interior -- I'm sure there an easy way to do it I just haven't figured it out yet.

Did these to show a 4' deck/porch around the sides and back with an 8 foot deck out front.


Another look.

Thinking about snow loads is scaring me a little though   I'm afraid that this deck might have to be REALLY strong to handle the potential snow load of our cabin at 3100 feet -- I've been told that we only get about 2 feet of build up right now, but used to get 4 to 5 feet.

OlJarhead you are probably wise to err on the side of caution but IMO I don't see you having any problems with a 8' deck if you build your roof according to what your snow load would be.  This is an extremely bad year for snow. So far we have had probably between 5-6 feet this winter with the most at one time around 30" . We are anticipating another 8-12" tomarrow and even more later next week.  This is how it used to be before Al Gore started talking.    You will never be looked down upon if you went a little overboard on the roof framing and it would not be that much more than what you are considering.  As others will say "when in doubt build it stout".

With my cabin roof at a 10/12 and the porch at 3/12 there is very little remaining once it slides from the top.  In fact it usually occurs on the following day.  The snow slidding off the 10/12 pushes the porch roof snow off as well.  I am glad I am not standing under the eves when this happens.  I was working when the back slid off and it sounded as if a train had ran through the cabin.

Quote from: Redoverfarm on February 04, 2010, 04:56:54 PM
OlJarhead you are probably wise to err on the side of caution but IMO I don't see you having any problems with a 8' deck if you build your roof according to what your snow load would be.  This is an extremely bad year for snow. So far we have had probably between 5-6 feet this winter with the most at one time around 30" . We are anticipating another 8-12" tomarrow and even more later next week.  This is how it used to be before Al Gore started talking.    You will never be looked down upon if you went a little overboard on the roof framing and it would not be that much more than what you are considering.  As others will say "when in doubt build it stout".

With my cabin roof at a 10/12 and the porch at 3/12 there is very little remaining once it slides from the top.  In fact it usually occurs on the following day.  The snow slidding off the 10/12 pushes the porch roof snow off as well.  I am glad I am not standing under the eves when this happens.  I was working when the back slid off and it sounded as if a train had ran through the cabin.

My 12/12 will be no problem   That much I've seen already -- nothing on the roof, 2 feet piled up on each side -- and that's with 2x6 framing and a tarp! 

My porch roof (as I've planned at the moment) will be 9 feet at the top and 7 feet at the bottom (a little low maybe but I felt a 2 foot drop was minimum for the 8 foot section) which I'm guessing makes it a 3/12 pitch? so that would be the same as yours.  The sides are only 4 feet as planned now anyway, making it a 6/12 -- so maybe you're right??

I only really worry abotu the snow coming off the cabin roof.

Thanks to you all here I now know I can install the interior pine T&G without some kind of backboard  so that helps a little -- I'm pretty darn motivated but need to wait until the 20th to go up there.

Grrrr

Great drawings and Sketchup models. I love that program but I forget it faster than I learn it. Is that the correct covered portch roof pitch in your model?

I'm going to do the same thing with my wood stove, not penetrating the roof I mean. It was a thru wall in my yurt and it worked fine for our needs. We inherited a cheap Harbor Freight stove and it works great for being there on the weekends.

I feel your pain about trying to get things done at a remote location! Forgetting one thing can ruin a trip!

Keep up the good work and I can't wait until you post some more photos!

Quote from: ebsworj on February 07, 2010, 10:54:06 PM
Great drawings and Sketchup models. I love that program but I forget it faster than I learn it. Is that the correct covered portch roof pitch in your model?

I'm going to do the same thing with my wood stove, not penetrating the roof I mean. It was a thru wall in my yurt and it worked fine for our needs. We inherited a cheap Harbor Freight stove and it works great for being there on the weekends.

I feel your pain about trying to get things done at a remote location! Forgetting one thing can ruin a trip!

Keep up the good work and I can't wait until you post some more photos!

Thanks:)

It's correct as it can be I think -- using the measuring tape function I measured up the walls to 9 feet and then set the front of the porch at 7 feet.  Which might be a bit low for some but I'm 5'11 1/2" so figure anyone close to 7' can duck!

We're planning Feb 20th for our next trip, will have chains this time!  Going to try to get the door on and do some wood cutting

Have chains, will travel

Actually I'm pretty stoked since I've got Friday off, have chains and a friend is joining my step-son and I on the venture.

If all goes well we should get the door installed and some more work done on the roof framing.

Also can't wait to see if we got the cougar in the trail cam!