What the Heck Was I Thinking - a 31x42 Remod

[Reninco]

Intro:
Background...so I am a 60ish year-old contractor, I would say you could label me some type of "professional" as this was my source of income for a few decades. Quite frankly I would rather be called a builder with engineering and (some) business skills. This will probably be my last complete house that I'll remodel/build and I thought the forum readers might be interested in the steps, processes, problems, ideas and thinking (or lack of) that went into the project.
And there seems to be a mask fashion thingy going around so I have some extra time on my hands.
Been reading this on and off since the start – a big thanks to everyone on the forum who take the time for their topic/posts and answering questions.
The Real Beginning...
The house has been done for a while (a 4 year project but the significant other says "it seems like 20") and I have a number of pictures that document the progress of our 31 x 42 "swiss-style" that the readers might enjoy.
I have posted on topics in these forums but that was many years ago – its challenging to post in a building forum if that's all you do... donut makers usually eat different foods at home etc.
===========
My first picture set is actually some of the last things that I did for the house, so I am starting at the ending.
In answering the topic title... I needed a smaller (newer/better) work table and a very compact chop-saw stand that replaced the long wide "construction" stand I used throughout the remod.
The table and saw stand are foldable for storage. I been building these things for many years so the concept is not new but I thought these have some better ideas than my last bunch – now the same thing can even be found online.
Table: is 3x6 5/8 A/B plywood with 2x4 legs and frame. It has tapered legs, layout lines with added hand-holds that can double as clamp notches. Its around the same height as my table saw so it can do double duty as an out-feed table that can hold many coffee cups and donuts. Edges are rounded-over, wood is sanded and sealed. Holes in frame for pipe clamps etc. when needed. Cross brace makes for a nice hand-hold when moving while folded.

Saw Stand: Is ¾ 8-ply with foldable wings, a small drawer with different sized storage cubbies below. Height matches both work table and table saw. The wheels lock and are tall enough to provide clearance for a push-broom. Cut-outs for hands so you don't smash your knuckles when moving the saw angle to its full stops.
Wings: really no reason to have a wide wings, these are 12" and they drop almost to the floor when folded. Saw can be used with the wings out or folded.
Saw "insets" into the top...hey I saved a full ½ inch of width, no bolting or pins are needed. By playing with a cut "optimizer" it takes one full sheet and a few scraps of ½". All edges are rounded, finger notches where needed and sanded and sealed with poly.
If you're endeavoring to build a similar system make a scaled mockup to get hinges, spacers and saw table in the right spot.

[Reninco]

https://imgur.com/a/Wkvi
https://imgur.com/a/UxMWYG1

[NathanS]

That chop saw stand is awesome. If I had a garage that's exactly what I'd do, and smart thinking on it being the same height as the table saw. I have one of those metal rolling stands for mine, but the extension arms are a single bar, and when you pull them out they twist, so it's not much use.

Thanks for sharing

[MountainDon]

Yes, nice table. Do any of the wheels lock?

Good choice of saw too. Looks like mine.      

What I would like is to be able to cut down on the sawdust spread and still retain all the movements of the saw. I use a big shopvac but a lot of sawdust still blows here and there

[Reninco]

All wheels can lock - made sure I could use the lock system with my feet before I decided with this style.
Lock tab is on "silver" part above the wheel.
All wheels swivel due to my parking constraints   
For Dust: I'll post a pic of my airborne particulate pivoting any position multispeed capture device

[Reninco]

Not mentioned in upper posts - Notches are nice as I don't have to remember (or see) best balance/pivot points for that component...just slip your fingers to notch and lift. Made by a 1" round-over router bit.
Dust fan + $1.99 filter at ACE

[Reninco]

The Actual Start
We were always looking to upgrade homes and location but usual hurdles had made this a decade long search. We choose this parcel as the drop in listing price reflected the upgrades (that will certainly be needed) to make it a viable purchase.
Located halfway down on a sloped lot with a west view aspect. The trees and sagebrush have not been touched since the land was first logged about 90 years ago and then later developed.
First owners of the house liked it "natural" – one impressive feature is that a tree limb actually grew into the fireplace stovepipe cap. Plus they left us with plenty of "duff" and pine needles to slow any water erosion – if you sense a slight bit of sarcasm you might be reading this correctly. 
It should be noted that "water runoff" was facilitated by the dished driveway which captured the water quite nicely – the first thunderstorm gulley-washer provided us with an impressive view of water flowing under the "guest suite" aka bootleg mother-in-law apartment built on piers; it was a lot like those Grand Canyon flood specials you see on the National Geographic Channel. Well, no worries as I noticed this well before we made the purchase. Plus, it left a lot of nice silt for any cheat-grass when the rivers receded.
Had to cut some trees just to get the dumpster truck down to the parking pad.
Picture was taken within the first week of acceptance.



Major Things... to deal with:
-Draw New Plan
-Find septic tank, pump septic tank
-Driveway improvements – remove water rapids feature – best design for flow
-In-law apartment options
-Mudroom and storage
-Pine needle, duff, dead limbs, crowded tree removal = aka an attempt at being FireSafe
-Rock removal to be put in designated fill areas – this will become a big project
-Interior change – to gut or not to gut is the question
-Interior new space design – remove many odd small hallways and walls to take advantage of west view angles
-Establish new entry area as there was no front door (yes that is correct), create new laundry area
-How much "west view" is too much – how to control sun, sun control vs view limitation
-Insulation schemes vs. cost
-Air infiltration schemes
-Type of siding, siding trim detail
-Window size, location, address modern fire egress codes
-Add to list as needed

[Reninco]

After pondering the interior and noticing a few things (sarcasm intended) that could be improved on, we came up with this plan. The new plan took around 80 hours of invention, study, drawing and many re-drawings. Two weeks of time seems so short now – but when I look back it just seemed like it took forever to arrive at a finalized drawing. That would be about 20 hours just after we decided on the purchase and 60 hours intermingled while demo'ing. The plan (in my head and on paper) at this point only covers the main house and not the possible sunroom changes.
The blue is the finished product, purple is existing. The In-law suite would have to go, mom(s) would now be staying in the guest bedroom and the cars would have a silt and water rapids free garage. Eventually.
Notice there is no time-line on the plan. I'll show the water flow mitigation in a later post.
House Plan... with water features

The wall detail will change to a double 2x4 with all studs "offset" to slow heat transfer. I would have liked to use the zip board-foam system that is now gaining popularity but it was still in its early stages of use and the nearest retailer was two day drive away. And siding the house, which is yet another step, that would still have to be done anyway.
Note: The 2-2x4 wall is (slightly) cheaper material/insulation wise but builder aware warning... these are labor intensive. I'll be building a house within a house. My time was free so it was the best decision for me. Pictures in later posts...
Wall Detail

Exterior Siding
The LP textured panel comes in 10' long sheets (special order via a non-big box lumber yard) so this eliminates many horizontal seams, either by wall height or to be hidden behind band boards. It also has a "ship-lapped edge" so when caulked that seam is fairly wind tight. More on this later. The house looks "squatty" from the street, so the long vertical board and batt style helps with proportioning. If I use architectural words like proportioning it almost sounds like I know what I am doing. Proportionally speaking wise.
The First Step...Is Delayed
So, I have cultivated a number of good subcontractors over the years and I placed a call to my "tree guy" to come by and make the lot fire safe (see post above).
Like many build/owners of the forum I am fairly comfortable with a chainsaw but the work on the house would have to be my first priority. Also I did not want have to deal with the many burn piles and debris they leave.
As the "tree guy" and I were talking...the last thing he said to me was "ya know there is lightning in the forecast". He called back 4 months later after finishing the government contracts for fighting forest fires.
And this was one of my mistakes on the project.
Ah the joys of contracting for improvements on your own home. Below is a red sunset from forest fire smoke that we saw each day and then for a number of months as our project chugged along.

[Reninco]

For some reason the tree guy was busy (see post above) so fire safe mitigation was delayed. I really needed the "tree guy" because I needed to remove the many surface rocks on the lot. Trees and brush first...rocks second. Time for plan B or "G" for Gut.
It would have been beneficial to have the tree guy working as I was demo'ing as this would have saved time – it did not turn out that way and this time loss would later would come to almost nip me in the ass. More info later.
Built as a post and beam with 2x6 T&G ceilings – 8' first floor and 10' to ceiling in open spaces, 16' at center posts. You can see the beams in the demo pic below.
Section of House

The gut began – we came across nothing that I didn't expect.
Out to the studs, aluminum single panes be gone, wiring and plumbing also to be removed as mice had found some sections of wire and copper had frozen a few times. With new walls not enough remained to salvage. Thankfully no: dry-rot, termites, lead paint or asbestos. 
Many dumpster loads – I know this because I am now on a first-name basis with the drivers. The weather fully cooperated and it became quite warm while the demo ensued – sarcasm intended. 




There were many weeks of demo but they all pretty much look the same so I'll spare the readers with duplicate pictures.
The house has a "head-banger" beamed loft (this is not to be confused with metal music), working in the nice warm days gave me time to ponder loft remodeling possibilities and potential use besides testing concussion protocols and recovery days needed before returning to work.
About 3 weeks into the project the time schedule for the key items falls into place. This makes the homeowner labor (me) and financial hurdles now digestible. Eating the elephant one bite at a time...
Year 1 – Main House (sort of) finished, water control and firewise cleanup ongoing for the next 4 years...
Year 1-2 – Garage finished along with mud room tie-in, paint exterior
Year 2-3 – Sunroom has a dirt floor along with a considerable elevation change – it will be completely removed and a possible basement will be created – details in later posts.
Year 3-4 – Remove rotten deck, add a bigger deck at a different elevation, finalize interior mudroom details
Year 4-5 – Final slope and firewise controls in place, cheat grass removal and native grass planting, continue the harvest of rocks grown during the winter under cover of darkness
My wife will chime-in here and say "5, hell it felt like 10 years".
Year by Year Schedule

[Reninco]

For water control drainage the concept is relatively simple – divert water away from things you don't want to get wet and have it flow to things that might benefit from being wet. Hey didn't I say I had some engineering training.
For implementing the practice of actual control, it will take some time and money and labor. We have 3 or 4 types of moisture input devices: 6 times a year heavy rain, heavy snow, rain on snow and rain completely melting snow.
Wife says to not forget her tears.
Due to melt over snow and ice, piping or other underground schemes are not very effective. All flow will be done with features such as: grade, swales, and surface channels. Grade changes in some portions of the project will require retaining walls – this is due to lot steepness.
Here is the water flow control for the lot = Improved Version. Not clear on the print but I did change the driveway location to lessen the grade. The new driveway/street intersection is at the exact spot where the street is at its lowest point. Depending on rainfall rates and ice buildup the street drains from 100 yards in each direction to my driveway. Welcome to home ownership.
Picture shows a top and side view of the drainage plan.

[Nate R]

Wow, definitely some drainage challenges! Nice to see how you thought through all these things!

[Reninco]

Nate: Puddles and ponds in driveways or around the house
====
Here is the kitchen layout – pretty standard "U" shape, I have found that if you can get the "inside" width to +65" two people can work without conflict. I think without conflict means there is now no excuse for me not to wash the dishes. Wife agrees.
So why not bigger? Past experience has shown we really don't need a bigger kitchen, this is especially true if the design tips toward efficiency rather than trendy. As a reminder it's a "cabinest" size house of 1300 sf. As the kitchen grows it will take space from other rooms – we did not have luxury of saying... hell let's just "blow-out" this wall moment as seen on many TV shows.
So why not smaller? That +65" in one dimension works for us, the short dimension would need at least 2 – 36" lazy susan's (door face of 12 at corner) and a sink base with side drawers so your real close to +65". I like sink base's with side drawers for washcloths and recycling tubs etc. This will be a room we will use at the minimum 3 times per day...something to consider when designing.
Kitchen Plan

The kitchen triangle rule (or kitchen leg rule) was considered and the longest leg is 77" between dishwasher and stove etc. which is very workable. Windows are located in the south and west walls. I love morning sun from the east, but we decided sleeping and bathroom spaces will be on the east side as "the" view is to west.
Stopping my build blog just for a second and interjecting a few thoughts on window placement.
I like the Saltbox style with the centered windows (no I really do, this isn't sarcasm), everything is nice and symmetrical, most architects and designers like this symmetry...perhaps a little too much as this type of personality likes to obsess on the details...hey that's what architects do.
Saltbox

Let's remember windows have many functions: they should let light into a room, if lighting ideally they should be placed for that benefit, if needed they can provide ventilation, they should provide a view - if a view is worth providing... when providing those functions the interior items in the room also must not block the window's primary functions (interior items might be a bed headboard or interior wall etc.).
This concept is illustrated below, "the window absolutely has to be here" idea.
Notice it saves the builder from having to spend time with pesky trim on the right side of the window. The window placement is solely an exterior design element with no thought to inside reasons.
Search "architecture from hell" for more examples and chuckles.
Window not centered

So in keeping with the title of this topic Hey What Was I Thinking...you will see most of the windows in this house were sized and placed with respect to inside details and outside view potential. I did not care if the very distant street view had odd symmetry or it looked like my design pencil might have bumped into a cookie crumb on the original plan.

[Reninco]

Rocks...they grow at night
The surrounding area is known for surface rocks (let's say bigger than a golf ball) over a 6" layer of underlying soil. If you remove the rock, you can with a little luck, re-establish native grass. Picture shows the typical condition, in this case the past owners have attempted to establish a life-like construction of a rattlesnake den...on and near the water shut-off valve. Unfortunately they were not successful. Nothing says fun like when you're quickly diving for a shut-off valve in a deep dark box, think you see a short piece of hose... and it starts to move.
Many rocks grew up from the soil under cover of darkness – at least this is what I thought as it seemed with each passing day more and more appeared. After looking at the rocks scattered across the lot it became apparent a few were from the blasted water line trench 50 years ago – they did not just grow overnight.
Did I say the old owners liked things "natural".
Red line is waterline locator – good thing for any construction as sometimes they aren't where ya think they are.
Rattlesnake den

And Trees
After a two month wait for the "tree guy" it occurred to me to get a "new tree guy" crew to cut and chip. The truck you see in the picture was filled 3 times before they were done. I listened to the chipper for two solid days and in this case, I smiled every time it started up or a branch was fed into the hopper. I suspect the neighbors weren't too happy with all the noise but progress had been made and nobody complained about smoke from the brush piles.
*Chipper truck load #2 ...yeah I think I can snake it down the side of the house without hitting it...

And Brush
After the "new tree guy" was finished I was able to give some work to the "brush guys". I had 40 to 100 years of pine needles and various new limbs from ladder fuel reduction to dispose – the trailer below was filled 3 times. Yep a lotta duff – some 12" deep. The good news was, the property was more fire safe as I had them rake it down to the dirt, the drawback is the house can now be seen from the street. Firesafe wins over hidden from view. More pictures later as I have to pretend the house isn't done yet 😊
Best Rakers ever

[Reninco]

A funny thing happens with creating the plans.
As I struggled with the 1,000s of "what to remove and what to keep things" on the new plans, one thing I needed to do is put a front door on the front of the house, or the idea of an opening for the front door.  Since 2/3s of the front could be changed I was having trouble deciding where to put the front door (no front door existed) what should go next to it, bath? Bed? Hallway? etc. etc. etc.
I felt like that kid in the candy store paralyzed with too many choices. Here, no here, no how about here.
The second in command said why don't you put it in the center of the house...wisdom from the mouth of babes.
So it went in the center... and I pay more attention to her ideas...and there were now two commanders overseeing the house remodel. 
Front of the house...put door here

So we had this wall. Now walls can stay or walls can become posts and beams or even become some walls and some beams. This wall needed 3 load bearing points or at least some studs to hold up the roof and loft beams would be a good idea. The other commander didn't care (this was obviously a trick on her part as I reveal later down the post) about the wall...or posts.
Posts for wall

I took the overall length and divided it into 3 sections. The center section has a "half-wall" that defines one side of the dining area. The two other sections are now beamed headers that you can walk through...then, then, the second in command decided that half wall was a perfect place for a new cabinet for the "nice plates". 
Pass through wall

I did some hidden trickery with hidden knife plates for the beam joinery. Manufacturers are now providing charts with maximum loads so these are accepted by building inspectors/plan checkers.
Search concealed beam hanger, concealed knife plate etc. for more info.
Typical Hidden Knife Plate

[Nate R]

I did some hidden trickery with hidden knife plates for the beam joinery. Manufacturers are now providing charts with maximum loads so these are accepted by building inspectors/plan checkers.
Search concealed beam hanger, concealed knife plate etc. for more info.
Typical Hidden Knife Plate

Thanks for this! I wasn't aware of these connectors. I've got 2 old hand-hewn 6x6ish barn beams I want to put up in our cabin bedroom, and wasn't sure how I was going to attach them to the wall framing.  I can put some blocking in between the studs to hold these connectors and hang the beams off of them. Beams aren't heavy, less than 120 lbs  apiece, so these will hold them fine, as long as i get the blocking secured well! 

[Reninco]

Nate - For a tight fit on the joints - back carving or back relief helps along with many test fits that you would never see on a TV show.

[Reninco]

We decided to remove the mother-in-law apartment - there was a lot of artistic license in the term "apartment". It was not wide enough, strong enough, at the wrong elevation, no permitted wiring or plumbing, but it made a good place for mouse reproduction and good for underfloor stream flow tests. You get the picture. We had to remove two large trees that would be right in the middle of the new pad.
Trees begone

Here is the drainage plan for the garage slab-parking pad-to ditch system. Back stem wall is 6.5 feet tall. Basically, you have to work backwards from the ditch to the furthest point of the slab. I was guessing 3.5 feet...so my fill estimate was slightly off.
Garage water flow cross section

[ChugiakTinkerer]

We decided to remove the mother-in-law apartment - there was a lot of artistic license in the term "apartment". It was not wide enough, strong enough, at the wrong elevation, no permitted wiring or plumbing, but it made a good place for mouse reproduction and good for underfloor stream flow tests. You get the picture. We had to remove two large trees that would be right in the middle of the new pad.
Trees begone

I'm sure it's too big for my little bandsaw mill, but wow that's a gorgeous looking saw log in the making.

[Reninco]

Tinkerer – Yep thinking the same thing – either to sell for dimensional to a mill or to a local sawyer. No body will haul in this area because the county wants a $90 "residential" permit and the nearest mill* is a 180 mile round-trip...and at the time the bdft price was too low to pencil out unless you have a number of loads. The local sawyer is actually a pretty big operation and unless it was free he didn't want it as his yard was already full.

*10 years ago it was 55 for a round trip and 50 years ago there were 3 mills within 3 miles of the house. Kids there is a lesson here we all should learn - sustainable harvest.

[Reninco]

So the new garage excavation began but before we hit ground we removed the "apartment". Messy as hell job, foam insulation in roof came off in small chunks and blew into surrounding countryside. While picking it up I felt like I was on the County work gang with my trash bucket working off my hours.

A funny story (see tree pic in post above) – see the car in the background, our lot is actually quite close to their driveway (if not on it) so most of the trees we cut were stacked near the property line well away from the excavation work we would have to do. The next door neighbor – let's call her "Miss. B" (the classic little old lady type) came by after most of the cutting was done and asked why we were cutting her trees and stacking them up because she had plenty of firewood...she wasn't upset she just seemed to be curious. Hummm. It would seem Miss. B was not really in the moment as they say. I showed Miss. B the property corners and how her driveway used some of our lot which she seemed to accept. Later her kids (around my age) introduced themselves and mentioned Miss. B was having some memory issues, I said the driveway encroachment wasn't a problem (our lot is plenty big enough so a few feet encroachment is no big deal) and remembered I would have to have some patience...particularly when cutting and stacking Miss. B's trees! Later she said she really liked the improvements we were doing...no trees were ever again mentioned.
-
The new garage excavation really resembled something you would see on a TV channel on natural disasters or rock mining. Plenty of big rocks and hard pan. When its this type of digging its best to use an excavator for a half day rather than a backhoe for 3 days.
Garage footer forms and batter-board to establish corners and to dial-in an estimated height. Most of the rocks that you see will be put back inside the walls. Door in the wall in the distance will be almost in the same location for a mud room entrance. In the middle notice some of the roof hanging in midair, not really an issue as these are 2x6 T&G that go back a ways on the house framing, I'll shore these up after the wall is poured. On the right side, in the background, you can see the slope of the lot...and of course the ever-present dumpster. Big tree on the left will be saved and I'll show you a before and after pic later on in this topic. Excavator was also handy for pulling some large stumps (that the old owners saved for us) that were under the apartment. Due to distance and no smooth dirt to wheel my "chariot" to the footer forms this will be pumped. Getting a concrete pump was a 3-week delay. Or I should say flippen 3-week delay. Or maybe the concrete guy had other work.
Garage footer forms

[Reninco]

Final garage stem wall height in my case is based on water flow. I like to work "backwards" of where the water has to be in the ditch then finishing up to where water flows off the cars near the garage back wall.
Garage waterflow plan

I start the slab at the "top" of the PT sill – this is not common detail but it can gain you 1.5"...that can be used for steeper slab slope for quicker drainage or less rock removal as the slab passes out the door. I gap the drywall ¼" off the concrete on this wall, the gap is created by shims taped to the floor – taped so the drywallers don't remove them. Gap is then caulked after painting.  I'm not worried about it soaking up any moisture as it stays dry behind the cabinet/workbench. This probably is not a good idea in Louisiana.
Sill slab start

Footers have been poured, some are thicker as to better accommodate standard 24" wall forms which are common in this region for residential concrete guys. We also poured the back wall wider as it was difficult to get an exact line on the rock we were standing the footer on. To the right is an odd triangle – this will eventually form the ...wait for it...triangle room aka mud room. If you look in the background you will now see that the aspen leaves are turning – the race between the builder and winter weather has begun...
Garage Footers Done

Wall pour – 6' tall, notice inside, we put platforms in to make the pour less challenging.
Garage wall pour FW

No dry pockets so all is ok, red arrows are sleaving for roof gutter drain pipe that will go from the front to daylight on the lower slope side. Odd footer on lower left is a "anchor-point" for a future retaining wall.
Garage wall pour done

Final grade with finished slab, water flow lines now direct stream around house. In the background are Miss B's trees. This picture was taken 2 months after the wall pour. Gravel is a "fine-grade" that is compacted with a vibrating roller compactor – fine grade gravels lock together better than ¾ minus so no potholing on the steeper parts of the driveway.
Garage and parking pad

[Reninco]

As the garage foundation build proceeded, I was also was undertaking the inside floor plan change. I kept a few walls but most were moved or removed. One long day was jacking up the floor beams, removing old walls, then re-establishing a level loft floor, add a new wall plate on the bottom floor, temporary supports under the beams then build the final wall. Beams were 42" O.C. so a lot of head scratching went to the best stud layout (it was never 16 or 24 OC).
Wall Jacking

One of the exciting features (and I mean exciting in not a good way) of the old house was a Captains Ladder to the upper loft. It had some noteworthy features such as: a rise and run that mirrored the final steps on Mt. Everest, handrails that started at the 5th step, steps that had broke, and a upper landing that put you directly under the ridge beam. It was promptly renamed the ladder-of-death.
Ladder of Death

When we first looked at the house, I thought to myself, it could be possible to make another staircase that was a little more code compliant, heck perhaps it could be code compliant, then one could access the loft area without a rope belay system.
A trick is to gain as much "run" as you can, I removed a section of wall (actually I was going to remove it anyway). The last "riser" on the stairs is the sheetrock backer in the other room. Hey that's 4 more inches of run plus it dropped the stair down 7" at the top landing – this would be 7" lower than that pesky head bumping ridge beam.
Stair Stringer wall mod

This in combination of a bottom winder we now had a code compliant staircase. No rope belay system needed. Before the winder could be built, I removed a large premade fireplace with the diameter of a Grade school boiler room chimney. I don't think it was too efficient as there was one other additional wood stove in the house. The better half said I wouldn't be able to remove it without some help or plenty of work, I said watch this.
Old Fireplace Down

Builder 1 Fireplace 0
Tricks that help building winders:
-Make the third step support box longer than it has to be so the stringers have something to land on...and for the fudge factor that always seems to be needed.
-Step #2 will be long, be sure to have enough wall "real estate" for its length.
-Step #1 will protrude 6" (or close to 6") from the winder "box" – this is the minimum width tread for winders so keep this in mind if the stairs protrude into a hallway.
-Draw everything on the floor first...and build everything exactly to the drawing. I drew in walls, stringers, posts, railing and trim detail to full scale on the floor. The pic below (courtesy of stairs4u.com) shows the concept.
Stair winder tips

-After getting the rise and run figured, I still use a stair calculator, I like the types that show the stringer length.
-Be fussy, treat the measurements and cuts on the stringers as final trim quality. A sharp blade and pencil really does help.
One idea that I liked was incorporating a window seat under the stairs. Ideally the seat would also have hidden storage. After spending many hours on the Houzz website it occurred to me many designers and builders were using 12" width stringers – make sense, as this allows you to chop out a section for the tread. Its also a code thing. Now most code things revert back to common sense knowledge...stringer must not break...so stringers must come from a 12" wide board. But really this means...12" wide board or its strength equivalent...or a system that will have enough strength to resist all loads that may be applied over its life-time. Engineers call this term section modulus of area, builders use the term "needs meat for strength" – same stuff just different wording.
In my system I use a tripled stringer as the "outside" stringer. Around 2" remains – pic below.
Stair stringer mod

Here are the rough treads with the window and seat idea – I could have traced the stringer on the wall and then cut and reframed the wall for the window before the stairs were placed but we wanted to see what the stairs would look like with a dummy seat and the final size of dummy seat is needed before a window size is determined. The seat area is commonly referred as a "reading nook" by architects...same stuff just different wording.
Stair tread rough

On the floor is the "timberstrand" 2x12 I used for the stringers – good stuff as it is dry and stable. This use to not have any strength value associated with it, but now does. To the right is new wall framing. Also shown is a step stool – actually this is a pretty handy tool for detail work that is needed for 8' walls, light weight and small footprint will get you closer to your work.  If you look carefully there is a ceiling patch where the old chimney was. To the left in the background is grey subsiding plywood on the outside wall – it apparently was used in forming the foundation. So I have 5/8 concrete infused subsiding plywood and 5/8 t-111 (both dry and brittle) with a tarpaper sandwich to start with. Gets petty messy* when you start to cut stuff.
*messy is an understatement; goggles, respirator and proper clothing are mandatory...along with a supply of sharp blades.
I don't have a framing picture but I added 3 small windows above the stairs. This may seem odd but they frame a distant mountain peak. From this angle they may seem a little high but the right corner is only 48" off the stair tread. No excuse not to clean them when they get dirty. The size of the window was determined by stud width and using the "Golden Ratio" for height. Architects use the term Golden Ratio and builders use the term "just frame it 1.6 times taller". My guess is the Greeks just wrote 1.6x in the sand for instructions. That's a temporary construction handrail and the post will be wrapped. Round things (not sure if you can see the wire in the pic) on wall are boxes for stair lights. One box is in the wrong place but I don't know it yet. Architects call this a home-designer-who-should-have-used-an-Architect mistake, builders call this a learning experience but they use swear words in that description.

[Reninco]

As the inside wall adjustments were being finished I added a second level of insulation on the roof. It is now late fall...it starts to rain in late fall.
The insulation add was accomplished by adding 12" TJI's and R-38. I dearly would have loved to have used foam of some sort but the costs, shipping and install time were key drawbacks. Advantec foam board that you see advertised everywhere was not available in this region at that time.  I can get TJI's, insulation and plywood the same day and all can be lifted on the roof by one person.
That is not to say the delivery "drop" will be where you want it to be.
Bad load drop

That's me – I was not very happy in this picture and neither was the guy that owned the trailer...
Cross-section detail of the eve facia – the idea is to cover the I-joist and somehow get a vent to fit in the double facia. I used cor-a-vent strips, these are usually used for wall venting - it has small openings with a felt mesh cover so bees don't nest in it. Its about ½" thick and black so it's really not noticeable.
Facia Detail Section

https://www.cor-a-vent.com/ventilation-products.cfm
Before the vent and upper facia – a little fine tune with the dewalt. Yes I should be wearing safety glasses...
Odd width plywood is so we end up with a half sheet as the last course rather than a 8" rip. Upper section of the pic shows odd framing that are the skylight boxes.
New roof overlay framing

[Reninco]

Ah man, talk about indigestion and stress...
I had reframed the roof for more insulation, the roofers said "I was on their schedule" and they papered the roof. That night a normal wind came and reinstalled the paper in my neighbors' yard and trees.
Oh, one other thing, I had gone ahead and insulated and had the drywall loaded and it was now hanging but not taped. Add stress level here.
The roofers returned and tarped the house and held the tarps down with 2x4's. Problem solved. I was "still on their schedule" and they would show up the next working day.
It then snowed 3' in 7 days.
With a little wind that 3' was actually 4' of wind deposition on the lee side of the house.
Add way more stress level here.
The picture below was a week after the "big snow" and after 2nd or 3rd time of removing snow from the tarped roof. You can just see the skylight frames (they were covered) at the top right.
Now you would think hey why don't you just get a few "snow guys" to help...With 3' of new snow in such a short period all the snow guys were busy.
You can never get a snow guy when you need a snow guy but you always find a snow guy after you need a snow guy.
I was the "snow guy".
Big snow on roof

Also shown are some of the new windows, these are Milgard out-swing vinyl casements. Why vinyl? Even most of the higher-end homes on the street had vinyl, I like wood and aluminum clad but I would have been overbuilt. Why a tall casement? This helps the house not look so "squatty" from the street. No grids/divided lights? Grids would have been too busy with the final siding and trim scheme. Double pane throughout the house.
What type of front door is that and what kind of trim is that? That is a hollow core work door. The "trim" is plywood being used as a mockup to see if this width looks right from the street.
Whose truck is that? That's the "sheet-rockers". I said to them "keep going, if the roof is going to leak, I personally know the "shoveler guy" so he can help. You can "work off" stress if you shovel snow for 12 hours...well most of the stress. It took a month for the snow to melt and be rained off, the roofer guys did show up and finished in one day. Here is the finished roof. It has been a few months since the snow melted, the trees are starting to green in the meadow below. No more stress...well almost no more stress
Roofing done

I still have the carpet over dirt-n-rocks walkway to the front door. This is a significant picture as the carpet will be done in 8 hours. I don't have a picture of the tile guys but they did tremendous work.

[Reninco]

The front door exit left me with some design challenges. Also shown are the old windows to be removed and a larger window new rough opening that is covered. And rocks, plenty of rocks...I think these were landscape "features".
Front Door

If you look real carefully at my roof beams you will notice considerable moss, mushroom and rot on the tails. Apparently the original builder and architect thought water dripping from a roof wouldn't do any permanent damage. Did I mention this was a licensed architect designed house. Let's call this a repair challenge.
Beam Mushrooms

Front door exit solved. I added a ramp across the moat, this was anchored into nearby rock. I finished the walkway with plywood scraps and rugs to cover the dirt. Ta-Dah done. The "good" plywood is leaning on the house, of course. We have a wreath by the door but it's well past Christmas...I'm pretty sure there was a robin's nest in the very top of it.
If you peek inside the door, the tile entry can be seen. Outside the door, are the wiring for lights – I leave these "loose" with no box as I will cut them in later to hopefully miss the board and batt layout and give a nice spacing from the door trim. The stack of shovels was my attack arsenal for the surprise snowfall that nearly gave me an aneurism or something that felt like it. The new windows are in – from left to right – bed, bath, bath. I painted over the mossy beams and will fix them later in the year.
Front Door 2

Red lines show the roof load path with the 2- 2x4 wall. The beam for the window can't be seen but it's a 4x6 turned sideways, that small depth allows for a taller window. The bottom of the window has to meet a minimum fire code but I'll drop these down a bit lower so the lower interior trim is at the same elevation as the top of the bed.  The larger beam perpendicular to the wall is a decorative old loft beam (looks heavy but isn't). Closet openings are to the right, a single "flat" header over the door as there is no load. Blocking in the closet for shelf and hanger rod.
Framing bedroom

I have a whole row of "view" windows on the backside of the house. The odd top "trim" is just a water stop – these are all temporary as their elevation key to one set of windows, those will be finalized once the kitchen countertops have been installed. The countertops were 3 weeks late, more stress, but I was able to keep busy.
Windows back deck

48" stub wall in loft, odd open area on the right is the new vaulted ceiling for the bathroom. Expensive bath fan still makes too much noise...
Loft Framing to Master Bath

Most of the beams had a thin coat of dark stain and were not sanded or cleaned (a few had grade marks) by the original builder. The wood is tight gained fir that you just don't see any more. I sanded the roof and loft T&G and every beam, matched stain as best possible and sealed with poly. Guessing about 3,000 sqft that was mostly overhead. Replaced my elbows and wrists later that year.
Rough Beam

Scaffold for the taller stuff, looks like the skylights are done and I am starting to stain/seal the ceiling. You cant see it but the tile guys are working right behind me.
Ceiling prep and seal