I have a question about attaching my beams to my 4x4 piers. I realize that I can use
post to beam connectors made out of steel like this one:



But I've seen a few builds where they simply seem to use plywood gusset plates or 2/4's on each side
of the beam and post connection and then nail or bolt them together like that. Is there anything wrong with that method?

Plywood Gusset Plate:
(Pic coming soon)



2x4 Gusset Plates:
(Pic coming soon)

All of those will add rigidity to their connections. I would guess the last one with the through bolts and screws would be the strongest.

Digging Pier Hole #7:

https://youtu.be/W8cCmLmrPOY

Pier Hole Digging Thoughts...

https://youtu.be/FvgabMEX5Ic

Saturday Morning - April 2nd, 2016

Quote from: John Raabe on April 01, 2016, 10:36:04 AM
All of those will add rigidity to their connections. I would guess the last one with the through bolts and screws would be the strongest.

In regards to the 3rd post above:

Thank you John, thanks for looking! Yes, I like the idea of using 2x's along with bolts and screws.

Saturday Morning - April 2nd, 2016

I thought I would let you know how long it takes for me to do my piers:

With the amount of rocks in my soil and going to around the 3 feet deep mark, the average
pier hole takes me around 45 minutes to dig with a shovel. The last 5 minutes or so are
done with the post hole digger, just to get the loose stuff out - the shovel does all the
work. If I'm hitting a lot of rock then increase that time to an hour.

Then comes measuring and cutting the Quikrete Form Tube, placing it in the hole along with the post itself,
putting the post-level on the post itself and adding the temporary braces, and lastly - making sure the post is in the
perfect position to the string line(s). That takes me about 30 minutes.

Then comes mixing the 4 bags of 80 lb Quikrete, putting it in the hole down the tube and tapping it down and then filling
outside of the tube area with dirt - that takes me an hour.

So all in all, it takes me around 2 1/2 to 3 hours a pier hole and I'm going at it all with no breaks in-between. I'm usually
on a tight schedule to get to work or go somewhere so a lot of times I'm racing when I'm doing a pier. I guess it
would be safe to say that 3 1/2 hours for each pier would be a nice time frame where you can take it easy and not race.

Sunday - April 3rd, 2016

Digging pier hole #8 and hitting a lot of rocks. I have to tackle the edge of what apparently looks like
a boulder or large rock...

https://youtu.be/kGViaGJAcYk

Now...here's how I break the boulder...

https://youtu.be/DubdsaqTiCk

Wow, pretty impressive.  All these little things that come up and make you wonder what to do.
Thanks for sharing, I wouldn't have thought to try to break the rock... 

Appreciate the timing outline as well, should come in handy for me to estimate the time I need when I start.

Sunday - April 3rd, 2016

Got pier #8 finished today and beam row #1 is done. Only 4 more pier holes to dig!

As you've possibly read in previous post, I've been using those 12" diameter Quikrete Quik Tubes and
I've had to cut a few of them to my desired length leaving smaller length pieces. In this video I explain how
one fits into the other to create an adjustable Form Tube:

https://youtu.be/8Lq7UxZ7tX8

Monday - April 4th, 2016

Got pier #8 done yesterday, short video about that and it shows the string line and how far away
it is from each pier. The piers should line up very closely to one another on a pier row with little or
no string gap. The distance from pier to pier can have more tolerance but the string gap shouldn't
be off at all if possible.

One piece of logic that I think about is this: If you have piers lined up at a string line at the bottom of your posts,
that doesn't mean that things are the same at the top, due to not being perfectly level and warping of
the post. Putting the string at the top of the lowest post and then tying the string to the last post may end
up showing you different string gaps among each post...just some thoughts.

https://youtu.be/w_b3Zk67jxg

Sounds good but if the end post that you are attaching the string line to is not square to the rest of your build then the rest of your build will be off.  The best way is using batter boards in both directions. Proven build practice.   That insures that the complete build is square.  Coming off of your batter board with your strings makes sure that each post is in line with the others.  Using a 4' level in conjunction with the string line will get the post plumb.  If you use the batter board string line approach to set the two end post on each end FIRST and they are correct then using the string line from the four corner post will work.  This step is critical.  If it is just a little off you will be fighting that " just a little off" completely to the ridge cap.

Looks like you're making steady progress.

One question I've had: Prior to setting your posts, did you consider digging footings, making a little rebar cage and then attaching Simpson brackets to the top allowing you to bolt your posts as opposed to placing your posts directly in the concrete?

Thanks Redoverfarm!

Yes, I did use the batter board method and squared up my corner posts but I used steel stakes instead of boards. You
can see it here:
(Pic coming soon)

(Pic coming soon)


And thanks also pmichelsen!

Yes I did know about the footings with rebar and brackets and have seen almost all builds done without
the posts in concrete. At the present, I don't consider my piers in concrete a terrible mistake. I think that six piers 4 foot apart and in the
ground with concrete will have no problems holding up the 14x24. Will the treated wood in the concrete rot away in time? I know of many
instances where posts have lasted many years in concrete, I guess the main factor is moisture and if water gets to them. Will my un-rebarred
concrete crack and move about in the ground? I don't know.

Yes, I believe the common method of what you described is 'the right way' and 'the better way'.

In regards to my posts being in concrete in the ground as opposed to on top of a pier using a bracket, here's what
the engineer at Quikrete Company told me:

QUOTE:
======================================================================
Thank you, for contacting Quikrete with your question. The concrete does not damage the wood post.

The post can potentially be subjected to more moisture when placed in ground.


Regards,

Christopher Edwards
QUIKRETE®
770-216-9580
====================================================

Starting on Pier #9:

https://youtu.be/BJvgszhvrkk

QuoteI believe the common method of what you described is 'the right way' and 'the better way'

Read Simpson's product guide, that bracket has no lateral capacity, there is very little resistance to toppling of the 6x6.

Quote from: ajbremer on April 04, 2016, 11:27:01 AM
Thanks Redoverfarm!

Yes, I did use the batter board method and squared up my corner posts but I used steel stakes instead of boards. You
can see it here:
.

Yes I saw the steel pipe/rebar you were using for your string line but went back to the beginning and didn't see the batter boards.  Yes the post are in line with the string line but I was wondering about the second row of post being squared off the first row.  Using the tested diagonal measurement is the only way for this to occur.  If you are satisfied Carry On.

Quote from: Redoverfarm on April 04, 2016, 02:27:25 PM
Yes I saw the steel pipe/rebar you were using for your string line but went back to the beginning and didn't see the batter boards.  Yes the post are in line with the string line but I was wondering about the second row of post being squared off the first row.  Using the tested diagonal measurement is the only way for this to occur.  If you are satisfied Carry On.

Thanks again Redoverfarm,

Yes I did do that diagonal measurement method.

One thing I like about CountryPlans 'Little House Plans' that I'm working from is that my floor will be cantilevered out from the beams in its width. My finished floor will be 2'2" cantilevered out each end in the width and 2' each end in its length from the end posts. So if my beams are not exactly parallel then it's not a big deal. But it will be necessary for the beams to be in line with each other on their perpendicular axis.

The beams are 9'8" c/l from each other and the house width is 14'

Quote from: Don_P on April 04, 2016, 12:14:52 PM
Read Simpson's product guide, that bracket has no lateral capacity, there is very little resistance to toppling of the 6x6.

Thank you Don,

I am using 4x4's. I'm a little confused (sorry), are you saying that the post coming out of the
concrete is stronger than using the bracket?

Sure, there is not a pivot point between pier and post, which is what the Simpson literature is warning about. That is not an endorsement for this, what you are doing should not be copied, simply clearing up confusion about that detail.

Quote from: Don_P on April 05, 2016, 06:18:30 AM
Sure, there is not a pivot point between pier and post, which is what the Simpson literature is warning about. That is not an endorsement for this, what you are doing should not be copied, simply clearing up confusion about that detail.

Thank you for clearing that up for me Don, I appreciate your input and expertise.

Pier #8 hole is dug, getting ready to set the post:



https://youtu.be/miiQgQQBDDE

Post #9 is set:

Pier Hole #9 Poured: Almost...

https://youtu.be/bfs5YPYfPYo

I was looking at a CountryPlan Thread called, "Tidy 10x16 with Loft" and it was built
with 12' high walls even though it is small. I really fell in love with it and would like to
have 12' walls in our 14x24 Little House. Here is the link to it:

http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=9422.msg170063;topicseen#msg170063

Wednesday - April 6th, 2016

Went to Lowes to pick up more concrete, another tube, and a 4x6 post. I noticed that those
Quikrete Form Tubes are different sizes and fit into one another - it seems weird. They all
have the same price and number but their diameters are different. Here is a pic of 3 of
them fitting into one another:
(Pic coming soon)


Here's a pic of what I picked up for the next pier (pier #10):
(Pic coming soon)


Here's the price of the 2x6x12 footers that I plan to use for the walls:
(Pic coming soon)