Don and Peter's Hot Rod Corner

Started by MountainDon, February 13, 2007, 12:55:02 AM

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glenn kangiser

#125
I think it may make sense if you are going to do one thing but to be versatile hydraulics is better.  Hydraulic winches - tampers - augers - wood splitters - tons of things available or that you can build yourself.

A couple of my trucks are set up that way.
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

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glenn kangiser

Sounds like the stuff I used to do, Peter.  A friend and I took an old flathead Dodge truck - put a second trans in it backwards and had a tractor.  The work quality was terrible but it worked and we had fun.  We were about 15 Y O when we did that.

You could add a hydraulic pump attachment to the solid PTO for whenever you wanted to split wood.  Then again I suppose you could attach a wedge to the top of an old single piston on some long stroke block crankshaft and split a piece of wood every time she hits TDC.  Better run by belts or a clutch in case something goes wrong.  I better quit thinking about this. :-/
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

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glenn kangiser

That's the kind of stuff I was talking about.  You are only limited by your imagination.   :)
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

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MountainDon

I found this link after reading about an early Ford 8N tractor V-8 conversion, the Funk Aircraft Company conversion from George's post re his Datil, NM building site. It's too cool not to have a spot in the Hot Rod Corner...



As well as this 350 Chevy conversion the builders website has a 351 Ford Windsor, a 318 Chrysler, a turbine, a 4 transmission special that in low-low-low-low travels 12 inches an hour. He's also restored ten of the Ford tractors. Interesting stuff

http://marvinbaumann.com/index.php

benevolance

pretty cool stuff...

we had a V6 buick engine in a hough payloader once...Same kind of thing.. getting the lovejoy off the crank for the pto was the hardest thing to scrounge for free...We made the adaptor plate to bolt the motor to the bell housing....Pulled the continental 4 cylinder industrial engine.... What a difference in power.... it was amazing! kind of dangerous too... ::)


glenn kangiser

Any opinions on a 1984 Jeep Cherokee Chief with a 258 CID six for $800 -- about 62000 miles.  Looking for a beater to take through the bushes without worrying about scratches and to pull our 4x4 Bush Hog to the backwoods when we get it.
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

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MountainDon

QuoteAny opinions on a 1984 Jeep Cherokee Chief with a 258 CID six for $800 -- about 62000 miles.  Looking for a beater to take through the bushes without worrying about scratches and to pull our 4x4 Bush Hog to the backwoods when we get it.


Woo-hoo!!  Love Cherokees, or maybe your remembered.
http://nm4w.org/members/miller-d/miller-d%2ehtm

62,000 or 162K, 262K.... Have a friend who just retired his very tired '89 with over 280K on the original engine and auto tranny.   :)

If that's an '84 it must have undergone a transplant. '84's from the factory had either a, AMC inline 4 or a GM V6. Is this six fuel injected? The 258 and the newer 4.0 look and are very much alike with the differences internal, bore, stoke, crank, etc. All the engines are extremely reliable with the 4 and small V6 just being somewhat down on highway horsepower.

What tranny does it have?

Problem areas:
The Cherokee up to '92 had a "closed loop" cooling system and radiators marginally sized for hot climates. They work but are a PITA to service/refill without getting vapor locks. Can be retrofitted to the newer open-loop. Surge tank and no radiator cap=Closed loop.

Another weak point: front hubs: Cherokee's will need front wheel bearing replacement every 100,000 miles or so with heavy use. Expect it, and buy them ahead of time. Wheel bearings up front are very easy to replace, which lessens the issue. About $100 bucks a side.

And '92 & up models have there own special weak point: Crank angle sensors. Every 100,000 miles or more often, these fail. Replacements run 75+ dollars, and can be replaced in the driveway. Symptoms: No spark/fuel when cranking. Buy now, carry in the truck to replace when needed.


And it is still made in China   http://www.jeep.com.cn/jeep2500/home.html
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

glenn kangiser

Thanks a million, Don.  I was finding the same thing on the engine although it looked like an option in other models.  Funny -- it has the engine sticker for that engine on the radiator mount frame.

Not a beauty but looks like it may be a good deal -- 4x4 for $800 -- we'll see. :)
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

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MountainDon

Hmm?  Maybe it was a special California model?

Jeep has a history of doing strange undocumented things as well. Especially in the older CJ models. but they've always had a knack for the unexpected.   :-/
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.


glenn kangiser

#134
OK - called and gave the guy a verbal that I would take it, as he was going to be gone tonight.  He went out and took the sign off of it so I think it is almost in the bag.  We are supposed to get together tomorrow some time.  I already have a lot going on tomorrow but will try to make time for that. :)

I don't have any other info on the specs yet but will update you here when I get it.

In the meantime, I just got word that I am supposed to be getting my Bush Hog in the next day or two minus a couple accessories that are on the way.  I'm trading some work on the Bigger house project for it.

It would be this little goodie here --



http://www.bushhog.com/countrylife-toc.html

See Trail Hand under - Trail Series Utility Vehicles
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

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glenn kangiser

The Jeep is a California model with a catalytic converter --(and combination fire starter?)  Should be great for our dry grass areas.
;D
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

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MountainDon

#136
QuoteI don't have any other info on the specs yet but will update you here when I get it.
Re: Bush Hog... I'm interested! Keep us all posted on it, please.   :)

Re the Cherokee, if you want to sound like you know what you're talking about, refer to it as an XJ.  Jeep still uses these letter names "in-house" but I don't think you will ever see them in a Jeep ad. But all the sites/stores that sell goodies for Jeeps refer to them by the letters.... CJ, XJ, WY, YJ, TJ, ZJ, etc. They don't follow any alphabetical progression.  :-/
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

glenn kangiser

Thanks Don -- I was wondering about the classifications.  

Will keep you up on the goodies.
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

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glenn kangiser

Did the deed today - got the Jeep.

I found out why we were having a problem matching the engine to the year -- The boys dad put the wrong year on the sign --It's a 1981 rather than a 1984, but really that's neither here nor there.  Runs good and that old, things will need attention anyway.

All phases of 4 wheel drive work fine.  Title was clear.  Tires around 75%.  New battery.  New brakes done by a shop.  Trans fluid could use a change - maybe band adjustment?  All power windows seem to work OK - power seat works.  In general seems to be a decent 4x4 beater.



Peeling off the kids stickers today and checking things out.

"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

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MountainDon

#139
Ah-hah!! That explains a lot. An original Cherokee! A Wagoneer actually, in a Cherokee sub-model. . An SJ.  And a Chief, no less! A Cherokee with a frame. ....  That would be either a GM TH400 or a Chrysler 727 auto tranny. Both pretty good boxes.

Jeep Trivia.... the Wagoneer/Cherokee SJ was the next to last vehicle sold in the USA with a carburetor. Isuzu was the last.

Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

glenn kangiser

A 727 - I need to check that out -- I used to OH them when I was a mechanic at Dodge - not a lot but a few.

So - I think I got $800 worth.  

More playing with it tomorrow.

It has a checking carburetor light - I need to check out what that is - just flashes once in a while.  Fuel gauge and oil gauge don't work.  Alternator has been changed to a GM internal regulator with a single wire -- easy. :)
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

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MountainDon

#141
You've also got Dana 44 axles F&R, so forget the caveat I mentioned about front bearings.   :)  Ditto the cooling system thing.

The only thing the same about that Cherokee of yours and the '84 up model is the name plate.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

glenn kangiser

#142
She did run cool all the way home in the mountains - BTW looks to have a new or recon radiator also.  Slight bit of burned wiring near the alternator but appears to have been fixed.

I noticed leaf springs front and back too.  I can raise it a bit easily.  What do you think. :-?
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

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MountainDon

Well, undoubtedly those leafs have sagged some since the factory bolted 'em in place. But unless there's an obvious sag to one corner and unless there's a tire rub problem or something I'd pretty much leave well enough alone. Unless you want a new hobby upgrading it.  :)

In that case though I'd highly recommend Alcan Spring in Grand Junction, CO as the best leaf spring maker around  http://www.alcanspring.com/   You call 'em up, tell what you have, how much weight you carry, how much lift you want and they make springs that are superior.  :) :)

Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

glenn kangiser


That's cool..

We have major rocks and ruts around here -Tanya's type of rocks -- big ol boulders etc.  I'm concerned about dragging bottom.  I would like to get it up a couple inches.  Seems it would be better.

It also seems something needs to be done with the catalytic converter.  I'm sure it will start a forest fire or grass fire.
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

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MountainDon

#145
If you're wanting a couple extra inches you should go for new springs. You could use longer shackles for small height gains (less than an inch... usually half inch max... a 1 inch longer shackle gives approx a 1/2 inch lift.) Longer shackles unless well made, heavier, give too much sideways flex. UNLESS they are Confer shackles or made like them. They use heavier side plates (3/8" steel) , plus they have a tube welded in to "box" them.



You could also use a body lift kit; they lift the body on the frame so don't help at all for ground clearance, just give a bigger tire more space.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

glenn kangiser

Thanks for the info, Don.  What about blocks between the spring and the axle.  I haven't looked at that area yet. :-?
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

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PEG688

IF you where COOL you'd be thinkin of lowering it  ;D
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .

glenn kangiser

Thanks a lot, PEG.  Homey don't do dat. :-/

I have actually refused money when people used to come into my shop wanting me to heat their springs and lower their vehicle.
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

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PEG688

QuoteThanks a lot, PEG.  Homey don't do dat. :-/

I have actually refused money when people used to come into my shop wanting me to heat their springs and lower their vehicle.


Ah come on you'd look so BOSS with that baby lowered and some ding balls hangin from the mirror! ;D They might even let you join the legion!  
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .