So you are saying I should have 21.5 lbs pressure?  If so that should work for what i am doing...

Until you turn the tap on, then it goes down.  At a minimum, it will go down a half psi as I calculated, but if more than one person is using the water at a time or if you don't have low flow taps, it will go down quite a bit more drops roughly with the square of the flow rate).

I've been thinking on how to do this for my cabin.  Like I said, I have a similar situation as you:



No contour lines on that map, but I have at least 50 feet of elevation gain up to the spring, but a longer run to the cabin.

One way that might work is to have the pipe feed into a pressure tank in the cabin.  When you start to withdraw water from the pressure tank, the pressure tank will maintain the pressure (so long as it is rated for greater than what the hydrostatic head is without flow).  So long as you don't use more than what is in the tank (or more than the usable volume before it can't maintain the pressure any more), then you get the full pressure during your use.  When you shut it off, it will slowly refill as it re-equilibrates with the static head.

Not sure if that would work or not.  I have municipal water at home so I am not familiar with using/setting up a pressure tank.

thanks for those line loss explanations... I think  . Wow, as with most things, lots more to it than I ever imagined.

Your picture is almost the same except my brook is on the other side.. but your lay out is about the same - I have a pressure pump that sucks water them pumps it through the house a friend gave me... that would work but I dont want to rely on electricity.... I am hoping that I have enough pressure with just gravity,,,,,,,,

Here's another version of the site map, with 5-ft (unlabeled) contours.  The spring is a tributary to the creek, just inside my back property line.



I count about 10 countours down to my cabin site so that would be ~21 psi.  But the run will be about 400 to 450 ft so more pressure drop while flowing.

Was thinking about the pressure tank some more on the bus ride home from work today.  To avoid the loss of pressure while the water is flowing, I think it would work to set up a pressure tank where the pressure (when the tank is "full") is set just a hair (say 0.5 psi) below the natural static pressure.  That way, when you took a shower or whatever, you'd have most of the tank to use at full (minus a "hair") pressure, though it would drop as you used water from the tank - but not right away as it would without the tank.  When you stopped using it, the water would flow at its own pace from the spring down to refill the pressure tank (I plan on having a tank next to the spring for uphill storage.  Continually overflowing so it would be fresh).

The other option, without AC electricity, is to use a 12V RV pump like the shur-flos mentioned on this forum to boost the pressure.  The problem with that is that it may suck too well - faster than the water can flow down the pipe (remember, you can never suction more than 14.7 psi - that is one full atmosphere of pressure).  With too much suction, you actually cause the water to "boil" at room temperature and/or cause dissolved air to come out of solution.  This is called cavitation.  The presence of water and air vapor interspersed with the water acts like solid particles in the water and erodes the pump mechanism, destroying the pump.  So that isn't good either.  It is always better to have the pump pushing rather than pulling.

If he adds a barrel or storage container at the lower level

he can use a sureflow on a closed loop with a pressure switch

with water circulating arround the system on demand but returns to the tank if unused

Pressures are regulated up to the pumps max flow rate

there are many ways to skin this cat !

Peeled  a few more logs this weekend.... I have the ones with the really thick bark..but they don't have knots.... they look great when they are done... the ones with the greenish bark peel real easy.... takes me 8-10 minutes to peel each one... I usually peel 5-6 every time i peel and thats enough for my tennis elbow.....I bet I half 1/2 the logs peeled.... Building permit done- driveway permit done- waiting on ok for septic tank install....

The ones with juvenile bark generally also have no heartwood, it's still a juvenile tree. For most purposes it doesn't matter much but the bugs do prefer that wood, more starch/sugar and it isn't as strong, a lower microfibril angle. The tough stuff is generally the better stuff. But that's another country song about life in general  .

I have an extra draw knife if any body wants a turn

No takers on the draw knife... Pine pitch in the eye really stings and sticky  Forgot my glasses.... Bet I won't next time..

Not a tool people rush for 
When I saw pine there is a sticky spray throughout the air. If I forget to wear a hat it's a bad hair day. Those resin ducts, the epithelium, are the last cells to die. Under the right conditions they can still be producing resin 6 months after felling.

Quote from: Remington760-308 on March 06, 2013, 05:21:34 PM
No takers on the draw knife... Pine pitch in the eye really stings and sticky  Forgot my glasses.... Bet I won't next time..

Sorry I missed the invitation.     But as they say "been there and done that". Keep a can of WD40 around.  Good to clean up the draw knife and handles.  Don't think I would try it on the eyes but for everything else it does a good job with pine sap.

Quote from: Remington760-308 on March 06, 2013, 05:21:34 PM
No takers on the draw knife... Pine pitch in the eye really stings and sticky  Forgot my glasses.... Bet I won't next time..

Sorry I missed that as well.  Shoot and we were on a road trip as well.  We could have dropped in......

Bought another wood stove yesterday. First one I don't think was going to be big enough"GO BIG OR GO HOME" I say..  First one was an Avalon 996- takes 16" wood and is universal- free standing or as a fireplace insert..rated for up to 1500 sq.ft. The second stove is an Avalon 1196- which takes 22" wood  rated for 2200 sq.ft. Needed paint and a few bricks- and a cleaning. It weighs 520LBS. had to use a John Deere tractor to get it into my truck....

  I made a template to cut my electrical box holes.. I then took a 1" spade bit and drilled out the back of the hole so box would fit .. I then took a 50" 3/4" drill bit and drilled all the way down through logs and flooring.

That will work.  Are you going to create a wire chase from one box location to the other or just bring each up from the bottom?  The switches will require a little more effort.  Try to find a "ship auger" as it makes it much easier.

I only put a few boxes in so far they are on the out side walls of course. I will be adding some on the inside walls later. Also I am going to be pulling wires up from underneath. Switch  boxes and boxes in bathroom/kitchen counter will be more fun   I also started installing window framing. Oh by the way here is a JIG I made for the window/door so router out for slip joint so when logs shrink they won't tear my framing apart.

We used a piece of 5/8" allthread to clean/ram the chips out and kind of rasp the fuzzies out of the holes. I like the nail eater ship's augers. I have one that a machinist attached to a long 1/2" rod by turning a sleeve, slipping the rod and bit into and then wire welded. I finally cut it down to about 4'. its usually for oopses, we normally drill as we go course by course. Always keep the holes covered and clear of chips. Rain in a chip filled hole makes the densest mess you can imagine. When the boxes are in and drilled I'd take band strapping and cut a V point on one end then cut the tip off to a blunt point. I'd fish these from the box to the destination, confirming the hole and giving the electrician a ready made fish, tape to it and pull. If you can get plastic banding it won't stain the logs. Check for box fill with the wiring, I generally installed deep boxes to give the sparky options.

   I am installing deep boxes.... I am the electrician - so i am trying to make it  as easy as possible. I have to dismantle the logs and transport them to the land I bought for my camp. I am using old construction clamp on plastic boxes. The boxes have tabs on them so I can put screws in them. I also don't like metal boxes.  When I reassemble the logs I am going to re-drill the hole and snake wire through at the same time.  I found a flexible drill /snake at LOWES for 60 bucks that is around 60" long and you could add extensions if necessary. But I plan on drilling as I go for my lights, I am planning on 2 outside lights - 1 ceiling light for living room 1 ceiling light for kitchen.....

Does anyone ever feel like they should have built bigger half way through build?  I am building 20x24 and it seems that I should have built 24x30 at least.....  AND IT IS ONLY A DEER CAMP!   I have all 1st floor window frames in and 9 rows of logs fitted... I am so glad I am not going to be fitting them up on the property with generator running/time wasting. I work 4-5 hours fitting logs and only get 2-3 rows done.  I was getting excited about the weather until I see we have a winter storm coming in tomorrow - dumping up to 16" of white stuff........ I keep checking for square and can't believe it -it's right on the money.   I will be posting pics this weekend .... I added a back door which through of my plans in the bedroom for wall space.

  11" of snow yesterday.... took leaf blower and cleaned off the top of the walls so they wouldn't ice  up...   I measured up whta I need for logs appr.900 linear ft.  I have 400 peeled.  I guessed that I would need 1850 ln.ft. so I must  be half way    now it's time to fabricate some kind of fork extensions to lift logs up to 10' in the air.. I was thinking 2 4x4x12' that slide over my forks with a ratchet strap to the bucket to hand a set of log tongs from.

Just got done fab. lift for tractor. Here are some pictures of what I have got done.. Lots of cuttinglooking through the front door. on the left is back door in master bedroom / on the right is the bathroom   shower in the corner.looking in over the bathroom wall to the front of the cabin. Living room on the right kitchen to the left and dining if room enough

Looking very nice !

Thank you!  I wish it would stop snowing!  I have put up 10 rows so far... I have another 10 to go then tear it all down and mark them for reassembly.  I am going to build ends on the platform after that.   I measured up my logs yesterday and I am pretty close with what I have .. Gotta start peeling some more smaller ones to fill in between the windows- saving long ones for above windows.       

I worked on the camp today. It was a beautiful day. Around 40 degrees. I got alot done I think. I have the walls to the top of the windows. Tomorrow I have to work in the morning. Then be home around 10:00. I hope to get 2 rows above windows done so I can tear it down and stack it for shipping to lot.  I am going to leave just 2 rows and build on top of them  so I don't have to work off planks and ladders. I am going to build loft and end walls. I did a video on how to take 6x8 log and router the edges - mortise out  for windows - and using the Prazzi chain saw-skil saw attachment.