Started by MountainDon, January 13, 2009, 02:18:39 AM
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Quote from: OlJarhead on June 22, 2010, 06:16:06 PMSunElectric tells me they will remove the batteries and inverter from the 615 watt system and sell it as a package including discount.That system is so close to what I am building that I'm thinking it might work for me. Then I go get the Costco batteries and a different inverter and I'm in business We're so close to making this buy that my fingers are getting itchy!
Quote from: OlJarhead on June 23, 2010, 03:39:11 PM55 AMP Charger: http://www.theinverterstore.com/the-inverter-store-product.php?model=chg-dls-55
Quote from: MountainDon on June 25, 2010, 01:14:33 PMQuote from: OlJarhead on June 23, 2010, 03:39:11 PM55 AMP Charger: http://www.theinverterstore.com/the-inverter-store-product.php?model=chg-dls-55I have had that exact charger for several years in the RV. I bought the optional IQ Smart controller for it. That allows the unit to switch between two rates of charge automatically. There's a plug/jack on the charger that allows one to change the rate manually. The only thing that charger does not do is an equalization charge. It's a well made unit. Mine was made in AZ, I think they still are. http://www.iotaengineering.com/
Quote from: NM_Shooter on June 25, 2010, 04:31:15 PMMake sure to check the operating temperature range on your inverter!
Quote# No load minimum operating temperature: -15 degrees Celsius# Full load maximum operating temperature: 55 +/- 5 degrees Celsius (automatic shutdown)
Quote from: OlJarhead on July 11, 2010, 10:24:04 PMI'm also looking at installing the panels in a fixed installation until I can afford something else. So, here is my thought:Build Carport Roof over Camper that we use on the Property and install Solar panels on a steel frame that I can tilt between 63 degrees in the summer and 33 degrees in the winter (we are at 48 degrees latitude and I read somewhere that you can add 15 degrees in the summer for more efficiency and subtract 15 degrees in the winter). My thinking is to install two different length 'legs' to the top of the panel rack and stack the panels one above the other (so three panels laying sideways -- I'll draw it).I'm hoping this will have the added benifit of being somewhat secure and even hidden a little from view at ground level).
Quote from: glenn kangiser on July 11, 2010, 10:26:43 PMI just hook it to the + and - of the batteries, OJ.As long as you are using a proper charger the other stuff should take care of itself, just as multiple charging sources - wind , more separate solar etc. can be hooked to the batteries.Now I use a welder for a charger - running 160 amps sometimes - haven't blown anything yet but I try to be careful and keep my overcurrent device handy.That should be steeper in the winter as the sun is lower - I guess that depends on where you are measuring your angle from. About 45 degrees works pretty well for fixed.
Quote from: glenn kangiser on July 24, 2010, 07:43:04 PMNice job -I was too cheap to buy Visio- A couple things come to mind - make sure the charge controller you get is capable of taking the higher voltage from the panels and dropping it to 12 volts - not all controllers will do that. BZ MPPT will.Some of the automotive modified sine wave inverters commonly only last about a year - Possibly a Harbor Freight one with their added warranty could be a solution as I have had them fail in less than a year and some don't fail. [ouch]If spending more then a good name brand inverter is best for reliability. I only use sine wave inverters for the house and limit modified sine (really modified square wave) to automotive and field power uses. I have blown up a lot of things that don't like modified (square) wave.
Quote from: glenn kangiser on July 24, 2010, 08:48:04 PMI have a pulsing charger that will recondition them if they are not too bad. Best thing I did I think was to use EDTA to chemically break down sulfation. There are methods draining - charging and refilling them, EDTA added in the make up water was enough to bring them back decent.I think the Xantrex charge regulator is already a pulsing charger so it should work with the EDTA to stop sulfation. I have a C40 but have not checked the input specs on it - got it before I studied up and added MPPT controllers.My batteries from 2004 have been on the C40 since that time. Most of them are still alive and well.One thing I do know about the C40 is that it does have an equalization mode that is pretty decent so when you want to equalize at a higher voltage, set it to equalize and tune up the batteries.