14 x 24 Olympic Peninsula

[considerations]

You are right, I wasn't planning on sheet rock.  Which means I'll be researching the "vapor barrier" issue with the walls as well, when the time comes.  I've seen discussions about that on this forum as well...i.e., something needs to be behind "plank" type walls for if/when they shrink. 

I used board and batten on the outsided of my power shed, and found that buying the "planks" early, stacking them loosely and under cover allowed them to shrink a lot (summer time) before I put them up and pretty much took care of issues with the resultant gaps being bigger than the battens. But I'm not ready to think about all that just yet. 

I'm just starting to consider where and how holes in the floor are made for things like electrical and plumbing.  Looks like they come up through the "plates" at the bottom of the stud walls, at least mostly.

[PEG688]

  #1: I used board and batten on the outsided of my power shed, and found that buying the "planks" early, stacking them loosely and under cover allowed them to shrink a lot (summer time) before I put them up and pretty much took care of issues with the resultant gaps being bigger than the battens. But I'm not ready to think about all that just yet. 

  #2: I'm just starting to consider where and how holes in the floor are made for things like electrical and plumbing.  Looks like they come up through the "plates" at the bottom of the stud walls, at least mostly.

#1: Good idea , if you had time you should do the same with the T&G , maybe before you leave for that trip you talked about. IF  summer ever comes here you'll get some good drying time on that floor material. 

#2: Yes most , except kitchen island wires , the rest of the  plumbing pipes / wires / cable / phone / CAT 4 / forced air ducts etc,  etc ,  should be roughly centered in the wall plates.

  So remember that when you nail the plates down keep your nails close -r to the studs (not centered in the stud bay) so when you or a sub goes to bore those holes the nails are not in the way to dull the drill bits , same on the "top plates" keep those nails pretty much over / just to the sides of the stud below , for the same reason IF wires go over head and /or  for plumbing vents pipes.     

[Redoverfarm]

The only exception to those mentioned by Peg is the toilet which is 12" from the finished interior wall.  I always liked to put an extra brace on each side of the waste line to give the toilet a little more support. 

I had done the Board & Batten on the cabin .  They were air dried for about 7 months before installing. If you do stack the boards to dry do not use a tarp or plastic to cover.  Use just tin or old roofing alowing aire to flow through the stickered boards. I went ahead and cut by batten strips first and used them as the stickers.  I used 1X8 boards and the even # demensions I could obtain from the 7-1/2" board that I ripped for the batten.  I also used a electric hand plane to soften the batten strips edges about a 45 degree chamfer on the edges. It is an old technique that really blends the two.

[PEG688]

Ya and terlets too! I fergot thoses I'm sure there are "other things" as well. How about Bidays (sp) , urinals , in floor outlets , whole house vac systems , any more ?      Gotta be somin else 

[TheWire]

A word of caution about those whole house vacuum systems, I heard they really suck.   

[considerations]

Easy PEG, you're still beautiful....and smart.  

I bought the T&G in early May.  I've had to keep it covered, but am going to change the covering method to increase air flow now that the weather is getting a little better.   I still have the T's fitted into the G's because I'm a little concerned about warpage.  I like the sticker idea....maybe keep each layer "spooned", but seperate them with stickers...hmmmm.

The 2 x 10's I purchased at the same time wasted no time in becoming works of modern art the moment I unstacked them.  

The good news was that they were floor joists, and I didn't have to fit tongues in grooves.  But I learned about quick release C clamps and my grandpa's block and tackle to get them to hold still in the right place long enough to nail them down firmly.   Thought I could only use that block and tackle for lifting things....

[Redoverfarm]

considerations I pre-finished my T&G because with the 4X8 beams there was no way I could get a good job done between them on the ceiling.  In doing so they lost their original shape.  I borrowed a ratcheting pry bar that has two pegs that fit over the joist(beam in my case) and a bearing that is off centered and a handle.  Sort of canterlever style. In fact they actually sell  one and call it of all things a " board stretcher" .  Mine was homemade.  Had a hard time to keep it from maring the beams so I ended up using 4 & 5' bar clamps.  Once I got the first piece on the side I just kept going back and using it as an anchor then pulled each new board together to the previously attached on.  When I ran out of pipe(bar) I would add another clamp to that one.  I had three hooked together at once to reach the last couple of pieces. If you don't own any it is a good investment. Just buy the end clamp pieces and make them out of 3/4" pipe whatever length you want.

I also found out that you cannot use a standard flooring nailer as they are meant for 3/4" flooring and the nails are 1. Not long enough 2. Do not position the nail in the right angle.  So I ended up using 2-1/2 & 3" deck screws. 2 per beam. 

[considerations]

A little more progress

[considerations]

"so I ended up using 4 & 5' bar clamps"

Yup.  I'm now at the end of the 5 footer.  Tommorrow I'll go looking for the materials to make it longer. 

Really Good Advice Redoverfarm.....Don't know why one should need that, you'd think they would just slip together, but no....as soon as I get them out of the stack and on the deck in the hot sun they start acting like potato chips in oil.   You can almost watch it happen. 

Plus, the magic continues.  A nail gun and a big old compressor showed up a few days ago.  I had to call around to see who did that, because I wanted lessons.  Got them. Basically, I just treat it like a loaded gun.   It really helps...once i got the hang of it.  Lots of scrap lumber is now riveted together.   

It's been hot, like 80.  (Ok its hot to us treefrogs).   Work in the AM till it gets ridiculous, then about 5PM the shade comes and there are several hours before dark, and it's cool and nice, whew.

[glenn kangiser]

79.7 out here right now -- and you think 80 is hot -- you silly Washingtonians.

[considerations]

Yup, the little webs between my toes started drying out so I headed for the creek.  It's at least 10 degrees cooler down in the grove, and the water?.....wonderful.

[glenn kangiser]

I may have to go jump in Sassy's swimming pool.

[Redoverfarm]

considerations I failed to mention as if you hadn't already thought of it was to take a scrap piece of T&G, rip off the tounge and use the groove piece to fit against the piece you are installing.  This eliminates marring the tounge when drawing the clamp.

You can also reverse the ends of the clamp once you have out-reached it's length and use it to push as well from the opposite side if you are that close to the opposite that the clamp will fit.  If not then you can use a couple of long deck screws to secure a block on the floor joist/beams to act as a anchor point for the clamp(pushing) and once you have reached it them move iit further away.

[considerations]

Nope, had not thought of that....good idea.  cheaper than the trip to town too.

[Redoverfarm]

considerations you can also make you a deadman out of 2X4 to hang over the edge of your rim joist and extend toward the other side( length to allow for clamp). Just take an 8'-10'  2'X4" and screw two shorter pieces of 2"X4" (12-18") to act as legs on both sides of one end(90 degree).  Then take a another 2X4 block 8-10" and "T" fashion on the end. You could also use a wood spade bit and drill a hole  4-6" from the end and use that for the non-adjusting end of the clamp)  Then hook your clamp on that to reach.  Just a  couple pieces of scrap and some 3" deck screws and you have made an extension.

I got to thinking that my clamps were universal and could switch the ends. Not real sure what kind you had.  Some won't work either way because of the type of screw handle. 

Some of mine took alot of leverage to pull back and others took very little.  If all else fails then using a block screwed to the joist leaving just enough room between it and the scrap block for a prybar.  Only down side is that you have to keep moving the block for each course run.  Can you tell I enjoy using deck screws.  Cordless drill and deck screws are my salvation at times.

[considerations]

Got the T&G done.  Time to buckle down and figure out the walls.



I wondered why my apple trees were looking a little scraggly!

[glenn kangiser]

Hmm hmm.  Looks like you got one of them there giant rodent problems, Considerations.

[considerations]

"I got to thinking that my clamps were universal and could switch the ends. Not real sure what kind you had.  Some won't work either way because of the type of screw handle."


Nope, I could not make them push out instead of pull in. The handles got in the way, like you said.  A couple teenagers from next door made great clamps, it went fast because they were able to move themselves, all I had to do was tag along with the glue and nail guns. 

[Redoverfarm]

Yep I got one of those too. Have used the better part of the summer.  I am just about to graduate him from Gofer to Handy.  If he would just listen he might learn something.

[considerations]

I won't let them use anything more dangerous than a hand saw....all of the power stuff is off limits.  They're both 17.  I think they are both pretty much fending for themselves, not a lot of parental involvement, but seem sincere and willing to work hard....as long as I'm in sight or hearing range.

Interesting how teenage brains work.   These two are good with lineal things, but not so good with judgement calls based on a set of variables. 

Yuk, the only thing wrong with perked coffee is the unintentional swig of grounds in the bottom of the cup.   

[glenn kangiser]

Try it boiled.

[MountainDon]

Interesting how teenage brains work.   These two are good with lineal things, but not so good with judgment calls ....

Teenage brains are still not completely wired to their final adult form.

[PEG688]

Interesting how teenage brains work.   These two are good with lineal things, but not so good with judgment calls ....

Teenage brains are still not completely wired to their final adult form.

Youth is wasted on the young! 

[considerations]

One wall

[glenn kangiser]

Wow...far out.