14 x 24 Olympic Peninsula

Sassy · February 26, 2009, 03:33:59 PM

Looking good! Are you going to have to order a custom window for the loft? That will be really nice.

considerations · February 26, 2009, 04:05:40 PM

"Are you going to have to order a custom window for the loft?"

No, the Glass is already in there. It's a great big piece of thick tempered glass I just happened to have hanging around. It used to be the top of my dining room table and its been in a crate for 10 years.

The idea just looked so good on paper I couldn't resist trying it out. I figured if didn't look good, I still had a rectangular opening in the studs to put a "normal" window into.

I know, it's not double, but I will acquire a rectangular (read "less expensive") storm window to apply on the inside during the winter months.

Guess we have one more world class pack rat on this forum...

March 17, 2009, 05:29:31 PM

Flooring for the loft arrived today. One more baby step.

Beavers · March 17, 2009, 06:54:10 PM

Quote from: considerations on March 17, 2009, 05:29:31 PM
Flooring for the loft arrived today. One more baby step.

Looking forward to seeing some more pics!

Redoverfarm · March 17, 2009, 09:04:25 PM

CF maybe you told us before and I missed it but what are you putting down in the loft?

March 18, 2009, 11:51:14 PM

"what are you putting down in the loft?"

2 x 6 T&G SPF.

I have to get serious though and decide what to coat the bottom side of it with before I install.

I remember someone (you, Redover?) saying that was the way to go, and it makes sense. Then there is the drying times to consider....always the considering...considerations....now you have a glimpse of where the name comes from.

Redoverfarm · March 19, 2009, 12:19:55 AM

CF stick to the Water based. It dries really fast and recoat 15-20 min. I used a white latex semi-gloss for the ceiling and sort of wiping it down to give the pickle finish. Then used water poly later that day. Time consuming though as you can only set up to do so many at one time ( three sets of saw horses) There will be no traffic on the ceiling (normally)

so wear shouldn't be a factor.

considerations · March 26, 2009, 10:07:59 PM

One loft has flooring. One catwalk and the other loft to go. No handrails or edge finish yet, but progress again, finally.

The local building supply has a 20% off everything in the store sale tomorrow, except power tools and lumber and stuff already on sale, but I've got my eye on the wiring........and those GFI GHI (whatever), "Special" outlet thingies for bathrooms and kitchens.

MountainDon · March 26, 2009, 10:18:16 PM

GFCI

and for outdoors. Remember they feed through, one can protect the balance of the circuit.

April 06, 2009, 05:35:26 PM

I've gone from walking to crawling...but the lofts are almost done.

Next is exploring the mysteries of electrical. Woohoo!

MountainDon · April 06, 2009, 08:44:30 PM

Hey! Looking good!

ScottA · April 06, 2009, 10:01:53 PM

Wow that looks great.

Alasdair · April 07, 2009, 08:25:33 PM

nice job, looks really good

glenn kangiser · April 07, 2009, 09:33:48 PM

Looks cool.

April 08, 2009, 12:20:02 PM

Looks excellent! Great job!

jdhen · April 10, 2009, 09:29:48 PM

Considerations,
I've been following your progress with interest as my wife and I are finalizing our plans on a 14 x 34 based on the builders cottage. You're doing a great job by the way! I notice that initially you were surprised by the walking room in the loft (per a post last December). Then more recently when you were commenting on your stairs you mention that you would likely do 12 ft sidewalls if you could do it over again.
Would you mind elaborating a bit more on that? We were ready to do the 10ft sidewalls but since your comments we've been having second thoughts. Is it just the trouble fitting the stairs in or is it now that you've had some time to move about the loft space you've decided that the headroom is causing you more trouble than you first thought?
Eagerly awaiting your thoughts!
Thanks,
Jesse

considerations · April 12, 2009, 12:35:38 AM

"Would you mind elaborating a bit more on that? We were ready to do the 10ft sidewalls but since your comments we've been having second thoughts. Is it just the trouble fitting the stairs in or is it now that you've had some time to move about the loft space you've decided that the headroom is causing you more trouble than you first thought?"

Hi Jesse - sure....here's what I've thought about.
If you look at the most recent pics you can see that the top of the stairs is exactly in the middle of the loft floor - 7 ' from each long wall. My stud walls are 10', the bottom of the first floor ceiling joists are at 7'6" and the joists and the loft flooring take up about 12" of wall height. So I ended up with about 18" of vertical wall in the loft...then the ceiling starts sloping in.

Where I can walk in the loft without bumping my head on the ceiling is a floor space about 5-6' wide and 14' long. That isn't bad, its wider than I thought it would be....but if the walls were 2' taller, that "walkaround space" would be wider. Now, I'm 5'7. If I were taller, that space would be narrower.

I decided to put a door out onto a porch at one end of the loft. I have to have it custom made at 6'3 or make it less than a standard outdoor door width because of the slope of the roof. Now that doesn't matter much to me except for the costs, because I'm shorter than 6'3". Custom doors cost more, even when there is less door. Taller loft walls = standard outside door for the loft.

The stairs are a little harder to explain, but yes, I think 12 ' walls would have made them easier to fit in. I didn't see any way to build them except in an L shape. The object being to get enough steps into the stairs to get up to the loft without ending up with something that was more like a ship's ladder than a staircase. Code compliance was the goal. I don't think i made it. The extra risers in the landing probably throw me out of compliance. There are a lot of folk on this forum a lot smarter than me about this, and an easy answer for code stairs in a 14' wide plan may well be available. What I have I'm happy with.

One leg of the "L" is 7' long and runs from the outside wall to the center of the cabin. It can't be any longer than 7' or when you step forward off the top of the stairs, you'll bang your head on the opposite ceiling. As it is, I must turn left or right immediately.

The other leg of the L is the one going up the long wall of the cabin.

Back to the wall height. The risers along the long wall of the cabin get you to the landing, then you turn the corner to go up the rest of the stairs. The steps have to "rise" enough to meet that landing, but cannot go so high that you bang your head on the rafters as your head "rises" above the loft floor. Your feet are in one place but your head is a lot higher than that.

Taller loft walls would mean the first set of risers could extend longer along the long wall of the cabin, rise higher before you create a landing(without banging your head) , and maybe even shorten the distance that second leg of the "L" extends into the loft. Shorter top leg of the "L" = more head room and tha ability to step forward comfortably off the stairs when you reach the loft.

I hope that was more clear than mud. Bottom line is, that at least in these respects, and certainly for someone taller than me, an extra couple feet of wall height in the loft would probably make things a little more manuverable. To me, its still a palace compared to the 5th wheel.

jdhen · April 12, 2009, 10:37:09 AM

So, you're not ready to tell someone just starting out not to do 10 ft sidewalls and go directly to 12 ft. Sounds like there are some challenges but they're not insurmountable. Do I have that right?
With 10ft sides you have less space but if you go to 12 ft why not just use the Victorian plans or better yet a 20ft wide 1 1/2 story! Where do you stop? How much space is too much or too little?
These are the questions I'm struggling with. We've always lived in small spaces so that's not going to be a stretch. I just don't want to get to dry in stage and say "damn, we shoulda done 12 ft sides".
Thanks for sharing your thoughts.
I have a few more questions if you don't mind. Just want to clarify- are your studs on 24 inch centers? It's difficult to tell from the pics and I don't remember if you mentioned it earlier in your thread. Also- the loft joist over the window. Since it doesn't have a wall member to attach to how did you secure it? Some sort of blocking? I can't tell from the pictures.
OK, one more for now. How high off the floor is the first landing of the stairs?
Thanks and sorry for all the questions.

MountainDon · April 12, 2009, 12:53:12 PM

I believe considerations used 24" OC stud spacing. The picture in this message seems to bear that out for the 24 foot length.
http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=4499.msg63545#msg63545

There are trade offs when using 24" OC studs.

First, of course, you must use 2x6 or larger lumber.

Second, if you plan on using drywall inside, then use 5/8" drywall as 1/2" will show waves. 1x T&G does not have this problem.

Third, with fewer studs the placement of your electrical receptacle and switch boxes is more limited.

There may be others but that's what rolls off the top of my head this morning.

Sassy · April 12, 2009, 02:33:34 PM

You're making some great progress, considerations

April 12, 2009, 08:07:15 PM

Quote from: jdhen on April 12, 2009, 10:37:09 AM
So, you're not ready to tell someone just starting out not to do 10 ft sidewalls and go directly to 12 ft.

C: 'Course I'm not gonna tell you what to do. I think most folks building a 14 x 24 are calling it a cabin and a ladder to the loft is no big deal. I making it a permanent home, so there are puzzles to figure out about things like stairs....plus, I've never done this before, so I guess a lot.

Sounds like there are some challenges but they're not insurmountable. Do I have that right?

C: I've never bumped into anything that is insurmountable...so yes, you're right.

With 10ft sides you have less space but if you go to 12 ft why not just use the Victorian plans or better yet a 20ft wide 1 1/2 story! Where do you stop? How much space is too much or too little?

C: Hmmm why? $$$$$$$ + Time = 14 x 24 with 10' walls for me. I stop at the end of each paycheck. I have plenty of space outside, just want a roof over a warm fire, bed, and place to park my bum when nature calls.

These are the questions I'm struggling with. We've always lived in small spaces so that's not going to be a stretch. I just don't want to get to dry in stage and say "damn, we shoulda done 12 ft sides".

C: If you feel that statement comin on, have your partner smack you. Lean forward, not back.

Thanks for sharing your thoughts.

C: Thanks, its fun.

I have a few more questions if you don't mind. Just want to clarify- are your studs on 24 inch centers?

C: Yes

It's difficult to tell from the pics and I don't remember if you mentioned it earlier in your thread. Also- the loft joist over the window. Since it doesn't have a wall member to attach to how did you secure it? Some sort of blocking? I can't tell from the pictures.

C: C: Its fully secured at the other end, firmly attached to the loft floor with glue and nails.....the end you see over the window is resting on the ledger. I have another window in mind just above that joist and in the wall (ok a very small window). When its time to frame in for that little window, I'll finish securing it. It was really torqued, kind of in an S curve, so I left it free, and got it straight, pretty much by blocking and bracing it before attaching the loft floor. Downstairs the ceiling looked so nice and linear till your eye landed on that joist, it really stuck out. Now it's fixed.

OK, one more for now. How high off the floor is the first landing of the stairs?

CF: Hmmm. forgot. I'm going out to do chores, I'll measure it and let you know.

Thanks and sorry for all the questions.

considerations · April 12, 2009, 08:15:14 PM

Quote from: MountainDon on April 12, 2009, 12:53:12 PM
I believe considerations used 24" OC stud spacing. The picture in this message seems to bear that out for the 24 foot length.
http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=4499.msg63545#msg63545

C: He's right

There are trade offs when using 24" OC studs.

First, of course, you must use 2x6 or larger lumber.

C: Check

Second, if you plan on using drywall inside, then use 5/8" drywall as 1/2" will show waves. 1x T7G does not have this problem.

C: Say again? 1 x 7 T&G ? I really dread drywalling, and please let me know if this is something I can be shopping for to learn about.

Third, with fewer studs the placement of your electrical receptacle and switch boxes is more limited.

C: Hmmm, I think if there is a "have to have" placement issue, I would stick a "-----" stud in the place where the box or receptacle is needed. Sorry I learned a lot of stud names, but don't know what you would call this one. Jack/king/hmmm Don? How about "fudge stud"?

There may be others but that's what rolls off the top of my head this morning.

Don knows what he's talking about - I read his posts carefully. He has excellent knowledge.

considerations · April 12, 2009, 08:16:02 PM

Thanks Sassy.

MountainDon · April 12, 2009, 08:31:15 PM

... big fingers, small keys...

That should have read "1x T&G" as in '1 X your choice of width, T&G'

I like that "fudge stud". I used one, sort of. I really wanted a receptacle more or less between 2 studs. I nailed in a horizontal 2x4 and attached the box to it. Using the 2x4 in place of a 2x6 like the rest of the wall framing allowed placing some insulation behind it.

MountainDon · April 12, 2009, 09:23:05 PM

Re the drywall. I found a couple good references to drywalling. Right now I haven't a clue where I parked them; they are not where they should be.

How high are you interior walls where drywall will go?

The pros will lay the sheetrock with the horizontal being the long direction of the sheet. They will use 4x10 and 4x12. I believe there may be even longer sheets; not sure and I wouldn't/couldn't work with them myself. The difficult part about using the sheets horizonatally is finishing any square edges that butt together. (The short sides, 4 ft. are cut square, whereas the long sides are usually tapered to make for easier taping and joint finishing. The longer sheets are also difficult to impossible for solo work, IMO.