8X12 bunkhouse on skids...

[NM_Shooter]

I'm getting a lot of interest from friends wanting to come up for fishing and hiking.  I'm thinking that my cabin will be at least dried in this next year, and am now giving some thought to a bunkhouse for guests. 

I am wanting to do something small...probably only enough room for a double bed, and a couple of bunk beds or wall mounted beds for kids to sleep on.  Basically just an insulated shed with two beds and a small table. 

I'm also not interested in digging more piers for this.  As small as this will be, I'm considering putting this on skids.  The foundation will be nothing more than a shallow hole filled with gravel, and some concrete blocks laid on top.  Any settling or shifting will be corrected by shimming the skids.  If it blows off, I'll winch it back into location. 

2X6 pt skids, 2X6 pt floor joists.  2X4 wall construction, 2X10 roof joists (shed roof, 1/12 pitch).

Might even make it 7' wall height on one side, 8' on the other.  Probably no heat source.  (maybe a small RV type furnace later)

Thoughts?

[muldoon]

I see no problem with that, but I would add a couple of corkscrew style ground anchors and some braided steel cable with a turnbuckle to anchor it in.  1 on each corner would be overkill, but a 4 anchor kit from home depot was about 25 bucks with all the cable and hardware when I bough it last year.

Aside from that, 8x12 is pretty small, not sure if 2 beds and a table are really going to fit.  I would mark it off with some string and wood stakes and actually try to visualize how you will make it work before getting too far along with it. 

I would go 4x6 on the skids themselves.  Something to the effect of
http://www.mybackyardplans.com/gambrelstorageshedfoundation.php

But also, consider this approach as well:
http://www.shedfloors.com/

[harry51]

12x12 might be more efficient, in that it would yield 12sf of floor area per sheet of wall sheathing as opposed to 9.6sf with the 8x12 footprint.

It would pay to design the building as a torsion box, so when one or more of the concrete blocks sinks a bit over time, the floor frame joints don't pull apart and the door and window frames don't become parallelograms...

Yep, that's what happened to our similar storage room when it was undermined over the years by the dogs and gophers! It happened gradually....Hmmm, why is this door so sticky? Duh! It's fixed now, but that involved quite a bit of work and some creative engineering that could have been avoided if the building had been beefier in a few places.

Good luck!

[Redoverfarm]

Frank

I would re-think the roof pitch.  It would not cost alot more to go with a minimun of 3/12.  Not sure of the winter and snow but it would just accumulate on that flat of a roof.  Also you would have to go with rolled roofing vs, metal or shingle on that flat of a roof.  Ditto on the larger skids as well.

[NM_Shooter]

Okay... thanks.  This is the input that I need I appreciate the brainpower. 

For the skids, I didn't make that very clear... I'm thinking two 2X8s sandwiched. 

Yes, I think that 12X12 would be better... but I am hoping to build the floor unit at home and trailer it up, and I can't really tow anything wider than 8' comfortably.  (Maybe make it 8X16?)

This really is only a sleeping space to get folks out of the weather.  Sort of a glorified doghouse.

I get lots and lots and lots of snow.  Quite a bit of rain too.  If I am not going to build a shed roof, I might want to increase the pitch.

Sigh...   Here I go again.

-f-

[Redoverfarm]

Frank no reason you can't go ahead with the shed roof design even with a 3/12 pitch.  I have just heard too many horror stories about a flatter roof even with rain.  No sure you want to use the rolled roofing.  In fact if you wanted more light you could always put slender windows on the taller side wall of the shed roof or just leave closed. 

[NM_Shooter]

That's a good idea too.  If i go 8' on one wall, and 10' on the other, that will give me 2' in 8' of run, which is 3:12. 

[John Raabe]

There is a skid foundation design for small buildings in the Enchilada Plans Kit. It should be used only where you will not need to get access to plumbing or wiring in the floor.

[harry51]

Hey, Shooter, maybe two floor frames 6x12, then bolt 'em together onsite?

[MountainDon]

Well, if it's a simple bunkhouse, no food prep, no dining, I'd forgo the idea of double or queen size beds, unless it was a double/queen bunk bed. They have too large a footprint. I'd work on a layout utilizing single bunks along the side or end walls, one over the other, or if necessary triples as in concentration camps.  [that's a joke] Hey! They are non paying guests.

Door on one end, bunks on the side or far end wall(s).

I'd build the foundation frame using 6x6 if I could locate some 12 footers; or build them up with four 2x. My reasoning for that "overkill" is to give a very strong/stiff base for the rest of it. You'd be able to make adjustments with shims, rocks whatever at the corners as need be to make seasonal adjustments without the need for footings. You have the advantage of zero codes.    Then build on top with 2x6 floor joists, 2x4 walls, 8 ft ceiling with 2x6 ceiling joists - no loft.

As for the roof I'd maybe go with a shed roof, 3:12, using 2x6 rafters, 16" OC. Those would be rated for 55 lbs. snow load. 2x8" on 16" centers would give you 100+ lbs snow loading.

FWIW, my 8x8 shed that sits on two 6x6 PT beams sitting on the ground, has "tweaked" a little since the colld weather has set in. The door does not close as "cleanly/smoothly" as it used to. It's still okay, but something has moved/shifted. The cabin is still rock solid though.  [36" deep footings]

[Pritch]

NM_Shooter - In addityion to sleeping, your guests will need a place to throw their suitcase or backpack.  You may want to build a couple of drawers under the lower bunks for such storage.  Coat hooks on open wall space will come in handy as well. 

-- Pritch

[NM_Shooter]

Good ideas!

I'll build double bed sized bunks, one over the top of the other.  I want to be able to sleep a family of 4.  I'll put some shelves where the headboards would normally be.  Definitely some pull out drawers under the lower bunk.  Probably wall cabinets too for storage, and shelves on the high side of the wall. 

[Native_NM]

Greetings to all.  I am a long-time lurker on this site, and I enjoy the articles.  I have land in several areas in NM, all purchased with the idea of building a get-away cabin someday.

When I read your question, I immediately thought of these guys:

http://www.allstateportablebuildings.com/

I visited them by chance when driving back from Jemez.  They build some nice little cabins on skids.  According to them, most of the stuff they build could sit on skids and blocks on gravel.

As for the offsite building, in NM you can get a permit to tow wide loads.  I knew of some guys that built a 16' wide offsite and moved it to Ruidoso. 

I have a nice industrial yard in Albuquerque, and it has always been my goal to construct my "cabin" there, and then have it moved to our property. 

Best wishes to all.

By the way, I am not affiliated with the company above, and don't know anybody who is.

[glenn kangiser]

to the forum, Native_NM. 

We have a whole batch of people back there now.

[MountainDon]

Yes,  Native_NM. I've seen those buildings too.

[Native_NM]

Here is some info related to towing in NM:

Boating Law Administrator: 505-827-7173
Maximum Speed Limit: 75
Maximum Dimensions for trailer:40'L x 8'6"W x 14'H
Maximum Length with Trailer: 75'
Minimum Weight requiring Separate Trailer Brakes:3,000
Trailer Equipment Requirements:
Safety Chains:Y
Brakelights:Y
Taillights:Y
Clearance Lights:Y
License Light:Y
Turn Signals:Y
Reflectors:Y
Flares:Y
Breakaway Brakes:Y
Tiedowns:Y
Two Trailers:N
Insurance:Y
Max GVW: 21,800 lbs
Wide Trailer Permit Phone Number: 505-827-0376

Your post piqued my interest.  I guess I can research and find out the requirements.

[Native_NM]

Yes,  Native_NM. I've seen those buildings too.

I bet you have - maybe too many times with all your driving!  On a side note, your project has been my biggest inspiration.  I have property off NM4, and we love the Jemez.  All of the projects here are amazing, but as a neighbor, yours makes it real.  Keep on posting!

[Native_NM]

Here is the permit for towing a wide load:

http://www.dps.nm.org/lawEnforcement/mtd/docs/osowPermitApp.pdf

I'll keep digging and find out vehicle, axle, and license requirements.

I do know that there are several companies in Abq. that will move your buildings for you.  Last time I checked, they would have charged ~$2,000 to move a 16' x 32' from Bernalillo to the Ruidoso area.  This included setting it on the foundation, leveling, and any other labor needed.

I guess it depends on where you plan to build and move to, Shooter.

[MountainDon]

We usually don't pass by them. We take the Unser / NW Loop way out of town. I'd scare myself if I kept track of the numbers of times I've driven the route up US 550 / NM 4.  

[MountainDon]

Shooter's road into his site near Chama is veeerrry rough, rocky and slow traveling. He probably couldn't interest anyone in taking on the job.

[MountainDon]

And pardon me... thanks for the kind words regarding our cabin. 

[NM_Shooter]

Shooter's road into his site near Chama is veeerrry rough, rocky and slow traveling. He probably couldn't interest anyone in taking on the job.

Hoo boy.  You ain't kidding.  That's actually my main concern about my load width too... the access road can be pretty skinny.  Heck, I can't even hire kids to come in and do work for me at $12 an hour. 

Came out of there Oct. 5th in a snow storm.  Slipping on wet clay, and half the time praying to stay in the ruts, half the time hoping not to slide down into the really deep ruts.  One day we might splurge on some roadwork. 

I'm getting anxious to put wood together.  Only 5 months to spring thaw.

-f-