Fireplace insert help

[db4570]

We have an old family cabin that I am doing some work on. One thing I want to do is install a wood burning fireplace insert in the existing fireplace, but it's a bit of an odd configuration. The fireplace is raised off the floor about a foot, and there's no hearth.



Most inserts look like they stick out several inches or even up to a foot. I wonder if it matters if it sticks out? I assume I would need a fireproof shield under it covering the floor. I have a big piece of slate I am thinking about using for that.

I am not looking for a particular brand/model, as I am at the whim of whatever I can find on Craigslist that will fit for under $200.

I have never worked on stove stuff before, so don't know a lot about the subject. The next challenge will be getting the chimney flue attached.

Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

David

[kenhill]

Do some research at: https://regency-fire.com/Products/Wood/Wood-Inserts/H2100
We have a regency and it fits almost entirely in the fireplace opening.  We also got rock wool and packed tightly around the entire stove to prevent the downdraft of cold air in the original flue.  You will need to run a pipe all the way to the top to have enough heat to draw the smoke.

[Redoverfarm]

Generally there is a heart in front of the fireplace.  Mostly mason products, stone, brick and ect....    You might have to add just to have enough room for the insert the sit upon.  It also helps as hot embers tend to roll out of the door and have a place to land that is not combustible. But it should not stop there.  Fire proof floor covering at least semi-circle in front of the door.  Most professionals will frown just dead heading the flue pipe above the damper (if one is installed).  Best to get a Stainless Steel liner up the flue.

[db4570]

Thanks for the replies.

I am seeing that different inserts stick out of the fireplace different distances. In any case, I definitely need something fireproof underneath to catch sparks and embers. I am wondering if something like this would work to fill in underneath:



It would be nice if I could find someone to do it with stone in the same general theme as the wall. Maybe I'll try to figure out how to do it myself. I would keep it hollow inside to keep the weight down.

As far as the flue, I am thinking about flex pipe, which can be squished to squeeze through tight openings. The fireplace outlet opening is about 6x20", but with a bar down the middle dividing it into 2 6x10" openings, for some reason.



So I'd need to snake a pipe through there somehow.

Then I'd run it up the existing masonry chimney, which is a whopping 12x18". Instead of insulating it, I am thinking about a top plate over the top of the chimney tiles with the right size hole for the metal pipe to go through:



Keep the suggestions coming!

David

[Redoverfarm]

Dave I thought I had some pictures of how I did my raised hearth but I can't locate them.  Anyway it is not that difficult if you know some basic framing skills.  I built a 2X4 framed box and 1st covered it in Hardee board.  Then I came back and laid cultured stone on the face.  I used a regular cap stone ( given to me) for the top.  The floor is just tile on top of hardee board. Just remember to take into consideration the materials that you are going to use dimensional wise that it doesn't end up higher than the bottom of your firebox.



My mother a few years ago had a liner installed in her fireplace as well as an insert.  She now has 4 times the heat and only uses 1/4 of the wood that she did with her fireplace.  The liner had an insulated sleeve that was slipped over it and the top cap was insulated as well.  Here is basicly what was used.

http://www.woodlanddirect.com/Chimney/Chimney-Liners?gclid=CLfR3da8kdACFZA2aQodgtYI0g

[MountainDon]

I want to add that I really like the raised hearth John did. Easier to tend the fire without needing to be on your knees.

[Redoverfarm]

Just one item I forgot to mention is that you might run a electrical receptical to the hearth side or end.  That way if you put a insert that has a fan you will not have cords to trip over

[db4570]

I went to look at an old insert yesterday, and it was really nice. It sticks out probably a good foot, but I'm not sure that matters if I do the raised hearth thing.

I don't know if I can connect the flue correctly, though. It has a strange long rectangular opening going horizontally out the back of the thing, with no apparent way to connect a pipe.

I'm not having much luck finding used inserts on Craigslist, unless I want to spend $600-1000. I'm thinking more like $150.

David

[Dave Sparks]

The flue really is the key to burning wood correctly. There is a special flexible stainless pipe that goes inside the brick one and it will enable you to go higher than the orriginal that 90% of the time is too short. The high chimney will really help keep smoke out when you start a fire and later it will perform well in swirling wind. There use to be some excellent u-tubes but I did not see them recently.

Too big of an insert capacity is also a major problem in many cases!  When the whole wood burning system is done right, someone can walk into the home and not know wood is burning or was burned. When it is right, the ash removal often has the dust being drawn up a wide open flue.  Good Luck

[zion-diy]

while not a fireplace insert, I built a 2x6 frame with hardi board and then tile for my wood stove to set on. from the looks of your pic, a 2x6 sub frame would be about right.

[Dave Sparks]

I want to add that I really like the raised hearth John did. Easier to tend the fire without needing to be on your knees.

The other way to saving the knees is just a small wooden stool cut to the right height. Lot's easier than a raised hearth but they are nice to look at.

[db4570]

Now I'm wondering, if I want to keep it simple, with the insert opening up a foot off the floor, do I really need a raised hearth if I have proper fireproof material at floor level?

David

[Dave Sparks]

I think you need to know what the manual for the insert requires, what is required by code in the area you live, or a pro in the area where you live to look at the situation.
You may need all three as you do not want to say that these guys on the internet told me to do this and that is why we had a chimney fire.
My take anyway... Good Luck!

[jimvandyke]

The other thing about a lot of inserts is they frequently have a pipe (4") that draws air from the outside to feed the fire. This allows a much more efficient fireplace.When the wood stove or fireplace has to draw air from the heated space you loose a lot of heat. My insert is flush to the wall and does not hang out at all. I built a hearth with 2x4 on the floor covered it with 3/4" plywood then 1/2" hardibacker then tiled it with 6"x 6" stone slate tiles.  The one I installed actually also has an air cooled chimney (pipe within a pipe, but that is because I don't have a masonry chimney to put it in) which has a second 4" air feed from the outside. You will definitely want to make sure you run power for the blower as most have a blower.

Also, buying a used one, you may run into problems. Fireplaces are one place to not mess around or your whole project could go up in flames.
Go with a good quality reputable source.
http://www.hearthsidedistributors.com/EPI22?sc=2&category=497435

Jim

[db4570]

I think, after looking at use inserts on line, and trying to figure out how to adapt them or make them work, I may buy an inexpensive new one.

I think I budgeted $400 to get a used insert working. I'm up to about $1300 now, before even ordering it. It seems if I take every rough initial estimate for everything I've done on this place, and multiply times 4, I'm usually in the ballpark. 

I can't wait to see how much the well and septic run...

David