My 15.75 x 30 Jemez Cabin

Started by MountainDon, December 20, 2006, 02:03:09 AM

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MountainDon

Quote from: Sassy on September 25, 2008, 01:21:05 PM
...  what more could you ask for?

???   finished walls and ceiling?  :D

First we have to insulate the ceiling and floor, though.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

MountainDon

#501
So....

Now the floor is insulated.  :) We hired my roofing handymen to do the job. Fiberglass batts stuffed in from below with wire supports installed to keep them up in place. There's a strip of 1/4 inch hardware cloth along the inside of each beam, running lengthwise. The rest of it is solidly sheathed with 3/8 inch CDX plywood.

I completed the shower water supply plumbing. I used 1/2" PEX with the stainless steel clamp bands. Yes the shower control and shower head are both off center, but so am I at times.  ;D



The hot and cold lines are marked with red and blue tape. They enter from the top left of the photo. Another view here...



What's the third line, you ask? I will explain.

Our water is presently not coming from a well of our own. We transport from a neighbor friend. We will have a couple hundred gallons in an external storage tank. There will also be an interior "ready use" tank. The ready use tank will supply an RV water pressure pump. For those who are not sure what that is... the pump has an integral pressure switch; when the water in the lines is up to pressure (40#'s) it turns off. Water sits there waiting to be used. When a faucet is opened the pressure drops (25#'s) and the pumps turns on.

Okay for that. I hate to waste water, especially when I'm hauling it. The idea of running the hot water in the shower until warm/hot comes bothers me. Not only here in the mountains, but also back home in the desert. So I have a recirculation system in the hot line. It's manually operated. That pipe that Tee's off just to the left of the shower control leads to a supply shut off valve. The line returns the water to the ready use tank. It's a quarter turn type, give it a turn left, handle in up position, allows the water to flow. It should take about 10 seconds. Touching the braided line will let you know when the warm water is there.

Someone else on the forum has done the same thing; I don't recall who it was.

Here's a close up shot...



Needless to say the valve, braided hose and the connecting nipples will be visible in the shower stall. the pipes etc. hidden in the walls. I have a couple short chrome plated nipples to be used in the final completed stage.

The braided line and the angle conspire to hide a section of the return PEX line in the close up shot. Liberal use of nailing plates.

The next trick will be cutting/drilling the three holes in their correct spots for the pipes.  :o I will make a cardboard template.

The lines that come down in the corner will be enclosed in a 3x3 corner box. There will also be a chase across the exterior wall (behind refrigerator and range) to under the kitchen counter where the tank, pump etc will be installed. No pipes in any exterior walls.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.


MountainDon

Temporary AC power!!!!

I used a 400 watt inverter at the RV batteries to direct AC to the service panel, just because I could. CFL lamp.


Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

MountainDon

I almost forgot... I insulated the ceiling. At least I've got 63.6% of the first step done.  :)



First step? Yes, in another unconventional move we're stapling up a layer of 15 inch wide kraft backed fiberglass (long roll) insulation. That gives us the vapor barrier and R-13. Next we'll install the T&G ceiling. After that we'll blow in enough cellulose to bring the R-value up to 40 or more.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

MountainDon

#504
Last but not least for this past weekend, something that I find truly exciting.  :D

Karen met the grand daughter of the man who originally received the block of land our piece has been carved from, in a Land Patent from President Taft in 1910.

I now know the (names of the) owners involved in each step along the way, along with exact or approximate dates.  :)  We have a copy of the patent, and have now actually met four of the six of the parties involved.



Unrelated to the above we also found the feathered remains of a wild turkey by the cabin. It would appear a coyote or something had a turkey dinner during our absence.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.


glenn kangiser

Interesting to get all the old paperwork and read the firt one from the feds to see how title is passed - it usualy cuts the state and county out of the picture and is un-contestable if you get the patent updated per Team-Law If I recall correctly.
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.

PA-Builder

Quote from: glenn kangiser on August 09, 2008, 09:39:10 AM
hmm A friend once told me that I never have been very P/C.  I guess I just don't get it.     d*   [crz]


Hey Glenn, Wasn't that me who said that ? 


I've been reading through this thread now that I got rid of dial-up . . . Great pictures & work. Beautiful area Don.

Five years ago, I was where you are now.  I'm glad mine is complete.

Best of Luck !

glenn kangiser

You got it, PA. [rofl2]

....but do you think that is really true....little ol' me? rofl

and congrats on the high speed....now you can read more of my opinions.... ::)
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.

peteh2833

PA-Builder, you have any pics of your place??? Pete
Pittsburgh Pa for home

Tionesta Pa for Camp


MountainDon

The ceiling just arrived.   :)   1x6 x 16 T&G Spruce   $6.80 each, FYI

Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

glenn kangiser

Now you get to go back to work, Don.

Pre-finish at home?
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.

MountainDon

After much deliberation we've decided to go with no stain, no added color of any kind. We'll simply clear coat it with one of those finishes that dry crystal clear. Satin or matte. It will be sanded, from what I saw while the delivery guy unloaded it's mostly quite clean.

Therefore we're going to install it and then brush, roll or MTL spray the clear finish.

I need to get it in out of the weather/sunshine and cut it into 8 foot lengths.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

PA-Builder

Quote from: glenn kangiser on October 01, 2008, 10:26:32 AM
You got it, PA. [rofl2]

....but do you think that is really true....little ol' me? rofl

and congrats on the high speed....now you can read more of my opinions.... ::)

I'm gonna have to exercise the 5th. Amendment on that one ! ! !      ;D

PA-Builder

Quote from: MountainDon on October 01, 2008, 10:57:00 AM
... We'll simply clear coat it with one of those finishes that dry crystal clear. ...

Don,

My experience has also been that the stain isn't neccessary. With just a clear polyurethane finish, it will turn darker pretty quick, and look real good !


Redoverfarm

Don just Curious as to why you are cutting.  Mine was random length 8,10,12,14 & 16'.  Seams (end to end) met every other board on different ends. Pattern was short to long and next was long to short.  It continued that pattern until a different length was used and then repeated that pattern.

Mimwax Polycrylic is good for this application as there is no wear as with the floor. It can be re-coated in 15 minutes. I used a minimum of 2 coats. I was finishing 24 boards at a time. Thats all the horses I had.  In fact I no more than went through the first coat and it was time for the second.

If you are going to install it yourself I can give you a little jig information.  Take a piece of scrap 3/4" 6"X8".  Now with another piece of equal size. Center the 6" wide onto the 8" with a lap of 3". Attach with finish nails or screws.  Now drill a hole centered in the horizontal just about 1" above the verticle which will enable you to put a drywall (or similar) into your ceiling joist or rafter. After installing the first board set your jig to allow 2" between it's end and the previous installed board.   Now you can attach it at mid length location of your board on the rafter or joist.  Now you can slip your ceiling board up under the jig to hold it while you begin working from one end to the other.  Before removing it mark across your jig onto the rafter or joist at the top edge of the horizontal piece.  That is the line that you use setting the bottom of the horizontal piece to when you move it up to the next course.  Sounds a little difficult but really isn't and works great for that extra pair of hands if you work it alone.  Believe me it is new lumber and when you work on the longer pieces you will find that they are not that true and need tweaked. 

If I have to tweak a bowed board I use a cats paw driven into the corner edge of the joist or rafter and pry the bow dow.

I hope your goes quicker than mine as I just finished 2600 ln ft of this stuff. Ceiling is done but have enough for paneling on a couple small walls.

MountainDon

#515
I wondered if someone would pick up on that comment of mine.   :D

The boards will run lengthwise down the ceiling. Every 8 feet there will be a 'trim' board running across the width. I may actually create boxes, false beams so to speak, across the cabin width. Anyhow that's the idea. The last section will be 6 feet, at the cabin back end over the bed area. 8 + 8 + 8 + 6

Why didn't I buy 8's?     They didn't have any.

Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

MountainDon

Interesting thing I noticed...

It must be an interesting machine that made these. Most of them were stacked in pairs as resawn from 2x6's. There was still sawdust between the boards and the knot pattern passed through from one to the other. The T&G millwork must have been done at the same time.   ???  Both tongues and both grooves on the pair are on the same side.
<====<
<====<

Strange but interesting.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

MountainDon

... and another 'why didn't you?'...

Why didn't I simply nail up the 16 footers and place the 'trim' pieces wherever I wanted them?

That's partly the transport problem. The only delivery dealer wanted $3 more per board (3x72 =  :o), plus $50 delivery fee. These were delivered to our home for free. For me to haul 16 footers is a task I don't like. I have only an eight foot trailer; true the tongue extends so I can have 4 feet over the front and back ends. However that then becomes a balancing act. The trailer becomes a real teeter totter. (It works better with 12 footers). The last 2 miles have to be done at a crawl with 16's.

A big, longer trailer would be nice. But that would necessitate a larger tow vehicle. The Cherokee was not made for towing a 16 foot flatbed trailer, plus load. Not up the mountain grades at 7000 - 8800 feet altitudes.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

Redoverfarm

Don they could have ran the stock through, cutting the T & G in one pass then re-saw to seperate.  Were they on the same side or opposing sides when stacked.  Does it appear they were planed on the back side or bandsawed.

I know the mill asked me which side I was using. Had to do with the machine tooling to cut one side better than the other.  I know the 2X T&G was only faced one good side.  The other was planed but not as true as the face.

By cutting them exactly 8' would be cutting it close for me.  You had better be sure the builder  ;) ;) was right on the money with the rafters.  Mine were longer than the designated length.  Say the 14' were all 6-8" longer.  Most that I had were just log length  meetingthe minimun but always over.


MountainDon

#519
Quote from: Redoverfarm on October 01, 2008, 09:11:05 PM
...cutting the T & G in one pass then re-saw to separate.  ...........Does it appear they were planed on the back side or bandsawed.
That's probably it. Tongues all on same side. Boards appeared to be bandsawn, no planing on backside.


All set and ready to go up to the mountains, parked in the garage. Yes, the builder was particular about getting the rafter and ceiling joists 'right on'.    ;D   I watched him carefully.   ;D ;D

Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.


NM_Shooter

Quote from: MountainDon on October 01, 2008, 08:51:41 PM
I have only an eight foot trailer;

Keep in mind that you also have a 12 foot trailer... mine.  Just give me a couple days notice when you need it.  It frequently travels around New Mexico without me  :)

-f-
"Officium Vacuus Auctorita"

MountainDon

Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

OldDog

I have a 22' tilt bed that has more miles on it than I've ever driven! :)

Wonder who has it now? ???
If you live a totally useless day in a totally useless manner you have learned how to live

Whitlock

Nice work Don :)  How much longer until your done?
Make Peace With Your Past So It Won't Screw Up The Present

Redoverfarm

Quite funny but very true.  I went to PU a stock trailer the other day to haul my sons pig.  Backed up to the trailer and my son said wait.  "You don't have a receiver on your truck". Then it hit me that I loaned it to a friend who just bought a new truck but didn't get a receiver. I just went to a neighbors and borrowed his. But I did remmeber to give it back the same day.

There is a good friend who often post ads in the weekly paper that reads " Will the person that had my *&%&*( please return it so I can use it.  The item usually shows up in a day or two.