Inexpensive wood interior?

[OlJarhead]

Hi All,

I'm looking for ideas for the inside of our small cabin.  My wife and I like wood -- lots of it -- and are trying to find what the best options are for us.

I don't like paneling becuase I think it's cheap (at least what I've seen looks that way) and would like some decent options for sheeting the inside walls -- maybe T&G pine or something.

Cost is of course important so some options would be nice.
Thanks
OlJarhead

[Squirl]

Around here, there are advertisements on craigslist for rough sawn pine at $.49 a square foot.  You could probably finish it yourself.  Is that on the high end or low end of what you are looking for?

[OlJarhead]

Around here, there are advertisements on craigslist for rough sawn pine at $.49 a square foot.  You could probably finish it yourself.  Is that on the high end or low end of what you are looking for?

That seems pretty cheap! 

[poppy]

Lowes has pine bead board plywood with T&G edges and 3/8" thick, I think.  About $18 for a 4'x8' sheet, if memory serves.

[muldoon]

any mills around your area?  

I am picking up my first order this weekend from one, 5.5" cedar 8' long 3 dollars a board. that's roughly 37 cents a linear foot.  Eventually once it dries out and stabilizes it will be the ceiling.  

might be worth googleing "lumber mill" and your zip code to see what you come up with.  

another option like poppy said is the T-111 style panels from lowes.  Last I was there they also had GP smartside paneling with a woodstain, I think they had 10" OC raised board and batten mold.  The one I was looking at was 15 something for a 4x8 sheet.  Just an option. 

[OlJarhead]

Thanks all.

Any pics?  One thing I'm trying to do is make the exterior look like a 1890's to 1900's cabin (T1-11 stained with batting boards - probably on 16" centers to cover nails)

I like knotty pine type stuff and anything that looks like logs.  Prefer real wood too (should have said that).

For a 14x24 with vaulted ceilings I can see spending in the range of $1k to to the interior walls though less is nice.

[mnboatman]

I put tongue and groove knotty pine in my 16x20' bunkhouse. The pine was $.70/board foot. For a 1,040 sq ft, it cost $728, plus nails and a few gallons for waterbased poly.
http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=7324.msg94248#msg94248

[suburbancowboy]

I went really cheap on my 12 X 16 bunk house I did this summer.  I used 3/8 inch cdx plywood.  10 bucks for a 4 X 8 sheet at Home Depot.  I filled in most of the knots, sanded and put on 2 coats of poly on it.  Here is a picture

[Ndrmyr]

Here's a thought....Us penny pinchers have to get creative to get true braggin' rights on a deal. Saw an ad in Craigslist for some 3" x 12" x 20' old growth beams out of a tear down. Boought em all for $225, counting the full length ones only came to 900 bd. ft. for $225. (guy threw in 1/2 dozen shorter length but still 3" x 12".  Contacted a local sawmill who will resaw in approx. 7/8" thickness (two cuts) for $550. This brings the total of 2700 bd. ft. for $775 or $0.28 per bd. ft. Figuring a easy ship lap, run 'em accross a dado blade on the on-site table saw, I'm planning using these for my interior next near as I finish the inside.  The old growth has a warm honey look to it that new growth Pine just can't match. I'll experiment with some finishes, but I bet orange shellac would look sweeet. I'll let you fellers know.

[Redoverfarm]

I would prefer T&G if I were going for a wood look.  You can also buy some old hand hewed log slabs (1-1/2")which you place on the wall like veneer and it simulates a log cabin effect.  There are also some exterior siding products which could be used on the interior. I guess just "think outside the box". What ever you decide on be careful that it is smooth finished.  Some exterior sheeting is rough and will be hard to clean (holds dust).  Had a neighbor use T&G 1X6 for the majority of the interior but wanted to cut cost and put T111 in the kitchen and bathrooms.  Big mistake IMO as you will never get it smooth and don't rub against it.  Besides that it will soak up finish and never give a good look.

[MaineRhino]

We used a #3 grade spruce V-match T&G 1x8. Tight knots, no holes.

[zion-diy]

we used rough cut 1x6 pine in parts of our house. planed it smooth on the face, then hand planed a bevel on the edge. screwed to wall, caulked the seams, and stained the wood. when finished, it looked like a log cabin inside. cost was minimal.

[rocking23nf]

we bought cedar t&g paneling, got it on sale for the same price as pine, bought 2000 square feet of it, its sitting in my basement. worked out to 1$ a square foot.

[glenn kangiser]

I also like the solid wood but have a sawmill.  I use skill saws set to cut a strip off the end to make shiplap for the more finished look areas or just boards or board and batten where I don't care.

Plain boards over log beams.

[Dave Sparks]

Just to maintain the illusion, please tell me that you don't wear the strings of beads!

To the OP I would add that if you finish the wood yourself and you decide to stain also be sure to practice first and use a wood sealer if you even think about staining pine!

[John Raabe]

I think the beads are for Glenn's Mardi Gras celebrations which come upon him unexpectedly.

[glenn kangiser]

No Dave... they are not my color...

John, It was a great night in New Orleans.... music playing on Bourbon Street and Fat Tuesday was in full swing.  We danced and danced and danced and danced, at least I thought I was dancing until someone stepped on my fingers....

After a couple of beers I kind of went to sleep on the floor... of the hallway near our room....

Sassy had been out on the balcony and I could hear a crowd of guys hollering something from the street below.... I just remember her coming in and showing me the beads they threw at her...  

No ... the beads were from the local mountain Mardi Gras at the Bug Lodge.... it wasn't that wild..  

[glocksrus]

Search here for glocksrus(our house in Ms.) It has some pics of our house's interior where we used the beaded pine panel from Lowe's and painted it. For added insulation we sheetrocked the exterior walls first then paneled over them. Hope this helps.

[Jens]

what Glen isn't telling you though, is that he was flashing the guys who threw him the beads.  Those wild gold country parties, you know.

[glenn kangiser]

I couldn't do that up here in the mountains, Jens. 

Years from now some archeologist would find my dried up mummified body at the bottom of a mineshaft. 

Not all of the hillbillies around here have learned about tolerance yet....

[OlJarhead]

Question:  when installing interior T&G pine does it need sheeting underneath?

Basically I'm wondering if I have to sheet over the moisture barrier first, or just start to put the pine on over the plastic?

[Redoverfarm]

Question:  when installing interior T&G pine does it need sheeting underneath?

Basically I'm wondering if I have to sheet over the moisture barrier first, or just start to put the pine on over the plastic?

Not really necessary but some put a nailer perpendicular to the studs about half way between the sill and top plate.

[Woodswalker]

I put 1/2" sheetrock on the walls, and 5/8" on the vaulted ceiling over 1 x 3" strapping, installed 4' OC, perpendicular to the studs and rafters.  Will now be installing 6" wide, T & G, pre-finished, cedar boards, from the floor to 4 ft as wainscoting.  Got the boards at 1/4 of retail cost at a Habitat for Humanity Restore in Oly.  They were originally 12' long, having been bought for the ceiling of a McMansion.  Someone changed their mind, and the whole load (new, in bundles) was donated.  They price goods at half of retail, and I get half off that for volunteering there.  The wood is quite light in color for cedar.  A friend thinks it may be Port Orford cedar.  I like installing sheetrock first because it is a fire barrier, and adds lots of thermal mass.  Think it also makes the place feel more solid, probably due to the weight.

[OlJarhead]

Question:  when installing interior T&G pine does it need sheeting underneath?

Basically I'm wondering if I have to sheet over the moisture barrier first, or just start to put the pine on over the plastic?

Not really necessary but some put a nailer perpendicular to the studs about half way between the sill and top plate.

Like strapping?  Or just nailed stud to stud like blocking?  Is this to provide greater strength or something?  I'm just curious.

I'm looking at cost effective installation so installing drywall seems a bit spendy -- 3/8" osb might be cheaper but I don't want to put anything there is I can get away with it.

So, if installing the T&G right to the studs over the moisture barrier is ok then that's likely what I will do.

It's a 6" wall so at least not as bad as doing it on a 4" wall

[Redoverfarm]

OlJarhead sort of like fire blocking in between the studs.  I never really had any problem with nailing to the top plate and sill.  The tounge would hold it from one stud to the next and then you pick up re-enforcement again on the stud and then to the next stud.  Unlike T&G flooring there is no stress on the walls as there is on the floors.  No support needed for weight load on the walls.  It is just a covering like drywall.  The only draw back is that normally you cannot nail through the tounge (except on a stud or plate) and an occassional face nail when it comes to the studs whereas with a block you can continue to tounge nail all the way across the wall.