Stair Stringer ?

[peteh2833]

When building stairs does the stringer always have to be a 2x12 or can they be cut from a 2x10 or 2x8? Thanks Pete
PS Happy Thanksgiving to all !!!!!!!

[rwanders]

If you are building code compliant stairs the tread dimension (depth or front to back) needs to be 10" or more.The rise needs to be 7 1/4" to not more than 8". I have never tried to make a 2x10 work but I'm pretty sure that a 2x8 would not work unless you are building something more like a ladder for loft access. As I remember, you need to have at least 1/3 of the stringer stock depth left after you cut out the steps so it pretty well forces you to use a 2x12 to avoid an unsafe structure that may suddenly fail.

[PEG688]

  Yes, generally they need to be cut from 2 x12's , so you have 5 1/2 " or more left over. Some folks use the cut off triangles toe nailed onto a 2x6 for the inner horse.

Don't run the cuts past , use a jig saw or a hand saw to finish the cuts. 

  So it depends really. 

[Redoverfarm]

I have seen them use less stock but it did not have to meet any code requirements.  As an adjustment there were 2X4's sandwiched on the bottom edge to regain the strength.  I have even seen them sandwich 2X10's to make them more rigid.

[peteh2833]

I'll just use 2x12's
No code requirement. Thanks for the info.....

[Jens]

  Yes, generally they need to be cut from 2 x12's , so you have 5 1/2 " or more left over. Some folks use the cut off triangles toe nailed onto a 2x6 for the inner horse.
wouldn't trust that, personally.  Those things split easily enough as it is, without nailing through the weakest part!


Don't run the cuts past , use a jig saw or a hand saw to finish the cuts. 
Most people look at me cross eyed when I say this to them!  If you wanna get really retentive at keeping splits away, you can bore a hole at the intersection of the two lines.  this keeps the splitting action from continuing past the hole.
  So it depends really. 

Left over plywood, sandwiched onto either side of each stringer (inside surface only on outer stringers) on the bottom two steps is a nice touch, that helps this week part out.

[PEG688]

  Yes, generally they need to be cut from 2 x12's , so you have 5 1/2 " or more left over. Some folks use the cut off triangles toe nailed onto a 2x6 for the inner horse.
wouldn't trust that, personally.  Those things split easily enough as it is, without nailing through the weakest part!


 

    I would NOT do it that way , but it has been done that way.

   


Don't run the cuts past , use a jig saw or a hand saw to finish the cuts.

 
Most people look at me cross eyed when I say this to them!  If you wanna get really retentive at keeping splits away, you can bore a hole at the intersection of the two lines.  this keeps the splitting action from continuing past the hole.


I know that look , I get it a lot , also the blank stare. 


  So it depends really. 

Left over plywood, sandwiched onto either side of each stringer (inside surface only on outer stringers) on the bottom two steps is a nice touch, that helps this week part out.

  It shouldn't take a week to cut out stair jacks. Unless your very weak and need a lot of breaks between cuts! Maybe sharpen up the ole hand saws ??  Maybe I'll shut up now , 

[harry51]

Pete, I've built a few staircases using angle brackets to support the treads rather than notching the stringers. Made homemade brackets on the stairs in the pics because I had the angle laying around, and the brackets needed to be long enough to span two 2x6's (which were also already on hand) on the diagonal and still bolt to the side of the post.  On another set built later, I used the Simpson angles made for the purpose  http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/TA.asp that Pegg first told us about here on the forum.

I've also seen wooden blocks bolted to the stringers to support treads; one example that sticks in my mind is several sets of stairs built that way in the Standard Mill at the ghost town of Bodie, CA. Those stairs were built before 1900 and are still solid, tourists use them each day during the season.

[MountainDon]

It's a little late in the day to comment on this topic, but...

When it comes to building sturdy stairs I think one should always think of what could these stairs be asked to support one day? Maybe a 400 lb. fire rated gun safe and a couple 250 pound movers? Several big people, all in a hurry to get up or down, bunched together?

Plus, as PEG mentioned, wherever you have two pieces of wood face to face, one on top of the other, there is always the chance for squeaking. No matter how many nails, unless they are glued firmly, there is that potential.

Things to think about.

[glenn kangiser]

People don't always think about being up in the air.

A group of partiers at a restaurant in Morgan Hill sent off a dead friend - a pilot - of a bit below required intelligence.  They all released a group of balloons to send his spirit off to heaven or some such in unison. 

At that moment they all stepped quickly back to watch them go up and the deck was wrenched from the wall by the combined weight shift.  A few properly spaced lags could have helped.

No direct reference to  here- just general information.

[Jens]

   

  It shouldn't take a week to cut out stair jacks. Unless your very weak and need a lot of breaks between cuts! Maybe sharpen up the ole hand saws ??  Maybe I'll shut up now , 

well, when you take that much off of the lumber, you should really let it stretch before taking more, just like when milling lumber.   

[JRR]

I make my exterior stairs much like Harry51 shows.  No notching.  But I use 2x4's instead of metal brackets.  I stick with 2x12's for the sides.  Also like to run a stringer-backbone down the middle.  Lots of black poly in all joints to keep a little water out.