Northern MI Homestead

Started by NorthernMich, April 06, 2007, 06:05:06 PM

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Redoverfarm

Earl looks like the shed was in the way.  Like your mixer.  Used one just like that.  Older model are still better than the new ones.  Also looks like you had a few rocks to contend with.  Just stack them up and let the rain wash them off and use them for your fireplace, flue or skirting around the bottom.  On your way.

NorthernMich

#26
John:
   Thanks for looking...I pulled the 4x8 deer blind out soon after the dig...it was built on notched 4x4s (2x4s across as floor joists) and my winch on the Jeep made it easy...it goes to a friend's property for deer season and then back to my place in the spring IF the snow isn't too deep to be used as the "Sugar Shack" for maple syrup.

Also, no photos BUT the 24 foot parallel boards for footings are 2 treated 2x8x12s with 3/8 plywood between to fill Simpson bracket and to allow water to not gather in crack. Then I used 1/2 inch carriage bolts..2 on each end and one at about a 6 foot interval, this pulls the sandwiched boards together creating more of a beam. These 12 foot apart rails serve as the base for 14 foot non-treated 2x8x14 floor joists to sit cantilevered...so cabin is 14x24...deck added on later...I left room on the end piers to attach that...every now and then I come up with good planning  ???


glenn kangiser

Nice pix.  Bet they took some time on dial up.  I've been there. 
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.

NorthernMich

#28
 :)  w*


Joining the 2-2x8x12 treated joints

Step one....bottom retainers-pegboard and or 3/8 plywood

Step 2 add R11 batts

Step three, top off with faced R19 adding up to R-30 in floor, vapor barrier to inside

NorthernMich

#29

Finished floor insulating R30




My salvaged T & G pine flooring-3 1/2 and 4 1/2

Cabin floor through the woods. I will use the blocks (more) to support the cantilevered wall later.  Clay rock base...I'm sure 6 12 inch piers are overkill.  But I have seen more on this site.

Thanks for looking and thanks for the site...hope to work together to bring ideas out.  Earl


PS...son's deer blind in air on right... ;)






glenn kangiser

Thanks for the pix and update.
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.

Redoverfarm

Earl look like you may be a little remote there.  I worry about the insulation and it getting wet.  I would lay plastic on the deck then lay the metal sloped a little to drain  (2-2X4 stacked then 1-2X4 in middle and then none on the other edge. Then if you want to tarp it also.  The snow will lay on the metal and thaw and refreeze opening the metal up at the seams.  Water will find it's own way down.  It doesn't look like you have enough room to get under there to replace. 

Good luck

John

MountainDon

I'll also voice my concerns like John just did. I'll go a bit further and add that my personal experience with attempting to keep my cabin floor dry this summer was futile. We carefully covered the OSB T&G subfloor with 6 mil plastic. It rained that same afternoon. Water found it's way under the plastic though pinholes I couldn't even see.  >:(  Lots of water.

http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=2335.msg61575#msg61575

If I was not on site when this occurred, the water trapped under the plastic would have been baked by the sun when the clouds cleared the next day.  >:( >:(  Steaming the OSB. I had visions of the OSB all separating.  :o So I cut the plastic off swept the floor clear of water and continued with the walls and roof. I can't recall how many times we swept the floor after it rained. Fortunately the OSB came through with only a couple of flakes lifting and no edge damage. But we were there every day. We used tarps to cover the floor, one of top of the other, when we weren't working. When it rained water still managed to find its way through.

When I started planning my cabin I had the same thoughts about insulating the floor as you did. In my case I was very glad I did not pursue that route. I don't want to sound like a doomsdayer, but I'd do everything I could to "tent" materials to prevent water from pooling. Best of luck.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

NorthernMich

Maple syrup time around the corner....starting my first time...I'll post pics



Redoverfarm

Ours kicks off the 2nd week of March.  Still a little cold.  50:1 ratio is a lot of work. Good Luck

NorthernMich

Batch #1 maple syrup done....still some snow in the woods....getting ancy to start building again....been constructing on INSIDE of polebarn :)







This was last weeks snow...hope it's way different this weekend :)

MountainDon

Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

NorthernMich


NorthernMich

three walls are actually ready now...will need windows, rough in and porch addition...it is modeled off something like this.


poppy

So, did the floor insulation stay dry?

NorthernMich

I hate to look...but I did not have all that much in....right now too much snow and 0 degrees...planning on doing wall sections inside the pole barn...way easier and then truck them out to the site :)

I stopped to look at this design near Kalkaska MI, the angled plate on the wall studs and studs cut to the pitch was VERY interesting...I did some Pythagorean to add some to the top plate in my design to gain room in the loft...maybe have this design on top...since this IS information station I decided to post pics...thanks for the great site and friendly help.

Earl

Photos follow...

NorthernMich


NorthernMich


NorthernMich


MountainDon

That is an odd way to build with the angled top plate. I don't see it as any easier to build than building with square cut studs with the top plate flat and then simply cutting the rafters at angles to sit on the top plate.   ???  Maybe I'm missing something that somebody else can point out?


And just how are those rafters secured to the wall framing?

It looks cute, though.   :) :)
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.


NorthernMich

rafters are "attached" two nails from the angled plate, nailed through T-111 into angled end and on top through the roof sheathing.  If, like me, you have an inside wall...it would tie it in just fine.  I'm going to see if they make a Simpson bracket to attach an inside wall to the top plates...bet they make one :)

This IS just a storage building but they did a pretty good job...not perfect.

Not cutting a bird's mouth would seem to make the rafter stronger, with a steel roof and 10:12 pitch I don't plan on a snow load...if snow sticks, the next winter I'll just WAX the roof  ;)

Earl

NorthernMich

sidetracked to finish garage....photos of ICF stacked in garage to do house as garage is finished


NorthernMich



Spot for house...ICF all the way Chalet



garage almost finished....inside was insulated and OSB put on walls and ceiling



view from garage loft now...other side is for shooting deer...no shooting through these :)




Sassy

Fancy garage  :) cute cabin, looking forward to seeing your progress on the house!
http://glennkathystroglodytecabin.blogspot.com/

You will know the truth & the truth will set you free

NorthernMich

#49
House-ICF all the way, exception a 12 x 16 sunroom




pole barn in background