If you have some scrap you could test it on that / those.

You might consider a wash coat of cut Shellac , or a simpler to apply wash coat of Benite a Daly's product , Ace should have it.

Both of those product are considered a wash coat , or sanding sealer , they block some of the color from going into the wood , which makes the wood less dark , which can some times be a issu, if  a deep dark color is desired.

  But what they really are intended to for is  to stop , or lessen blotching , dark spots where the soft grain allows the stain  soak in deeper , which causes blotching or different color of the stain.


What's the dimensions of the table?  Did I miss those? 

Looks good, press on!

 

     

Mike while some may frown but you have a perfect place to test the stain.  The bottom side of the table top inside the skirt.  No one will ever be able to see it.  If you use different stains then just stain the complete bottom with a darker stain and it will almost hide all the different shades applied during your test. Now if you were making this as a resale I would never do it.

I have been doing some more testing on scrap.  I put a second coat of varnish on the one piece I have going.  On the other I put a coat of varnish over the cherry stain.  I'm leaning towards just doing something that brings out the grain of the wood.  So far I like the double coat of varnish the best.    I have been reading up on finishing poplar.  There are a lot of opinions out there.  I picked a tough one I guess.  I'm not sure if I will go try some other products or just stick with what I have.

The size is 4.5 ft by 3 ft.  The Home Depot by me had 1X6 9 ft select poplar, so I cut em in half and 4.5 ft it is. 

I glued up the apron and put the corner braces and I am very pleased with how solid and sturdy it is. 

After quite a bit of reading I think I have decided on a clear danish oil.  I went out of my way to select boards with interesting grain patterns and color variations so I think this is the best way to go.  Also from what I have read danish oil is a more foolproof method as opposed to trying to fool someone with the stain.  Keep it simple.

3 coats decreasing in the amount of oil applied each time.  Wipe oil off after about 15 min.  wipe again 15 min later if any oil has seeped up from the grain.

Wetsand the second coat

3rd coat use very little oil

wax if needed/desired

I will practice on scrap, but any last suggestions before I set out?

The only suggestion is to try a sample and make sure it is to your liking. Danish oil is a bit too flat for my taste but the boss likes it, I'm a die hard waterlox fan. They are both easy to apply, waterlox builds heavier and has more gloss which to me means less soiling/easier to clean. They both recoat/repair well. not sure if you know, the greens of poplar turn a mellow tan brown over time. I rarely stain too, if I don't want that wood I use the other one 

Funny  you should mention Waterlox Don.  The guy at the store talked me into going with Waterlox it over the watco danish oil.  I chose the origial formulation.  I'm hopeing to get the first coat on tomorrow.

Our house is a mix of "who got to it first" with their favorite oil. If you don't use all the waterlox it'll start to set up in the can pretty quick, transfer it to the smallest container you can. I don't trust the rags from any oil finish, either burn them outside at the end of the day or spread them out on a rock. I've heard plenty of stories and seen one spontaneous combustion fire from oily rags thrown in a pile.

I use gas from my MIG welder to displace the air in the container.  I poke the nozzle end in the can with the lid held over and "squirt" the Argon CO2 mix in then slap the lid down.  I had to wire in a switch to disable the wire feed when I pull the trigger but it works and saves the finish. Any inert gas would work as well.

Dido what DonP said , I use propane out of my torch , similar to what Mtn. D is doing to extend oil finishes life, seems to work well.

Rockler sell stuff called Bloxagin , to displace the oxygen in the can.

  My favorite finish is Maloof's Poly/ oil , Sam Malloof's finish , again Rockler.

       

I will probably transfer into a mason jar.  I don't have the capability to displace the oxygen.  I read the PDF from the waterlox website,  application seems surprisingly simple.  Hopefully I don't jinx myself

If I can make it work it's gotta be pretty simple  . Use 320 sandpaper lightly between coats. An old painters trick is to exhale into the can before slipping the lid down, not great but more co2 than o2. If you screw it up just sand and recoat.

Quote from: Don_P on January 08, 2011, 10:22:40 AM

If I can make it work it's gotta be pretty simple  . Use 320 sandpaper lightly between coats. An old painters trick is to exhale into the can before slipping the lid down, not great but more co2 than o2. If you screw it up just sand and recoat.

Most "old painters" breath is 90 alcohol,    Might not work for a "normal" person!  LOL!

Interestingly at the lumber yard this AM the yard manager guy,  Al , wanted to run some things past me about a entertainment center he's thinking of building.  We went over a few things about "how to do things" and he was hesitant about "doing it him self" , I said sure you can , it might not be perfect , but you'll learn etc etc.

Much like this issue , sure you can do it Mike , just give -er a go .   Building confidence comes with doing it. 

You can do it!!!     

I keep wanting to post a project I did for my office a couple years ago.  Plywood was the cheapest I could find with the least amount of 'plugs' to work around.  It is of some unknown species.  Face frames are pine and moldings are pine and what ever else I could find cheap.  Whole thing still was way out there cost wise.  But it was fun to built and a joy for me to retreat to after a #$%$%$#% round trip on the train.  Like my last one, (Just got in at 09:30 this morning after all night.)  ((Whistle failed in route, first time in 35 years, I am so ready to retire!!))  So it was a lot of very slow movements over road crossings and we have well over 100.     Then we did loose our air twice.  No air; no move, send conductor back to find air hose undone.   Go again!
           

Nice looking wall/shelves/cabinet rick.

Wow!!!!!!!!!!!!!
You guys are so awesome!!
I just love each and every picture you share.. The details show in the pics like a medal on the chest!!!
Just so awesome to see the care taken to make stuff that can last a lifetime if not more!!!
Irene

That is really nice Rick.  That must have taken some time to complete. 

2 coats on the table surface so far.  The wood is sucking up finish like nobody's business.  Doesn't look like I will have as much leftover as I thought for the next project. Very happy with the look so far.   

Quote from: Mike 870 on January 10, 2011, 08:04:52 PM
That is really nice Rick.  That must have taken some time to complete. 

2 coats on the table surface so far.  The wood is sucking up finish like nobody's business.  Doesn't look like I will have as much leftover as I thought for the next project. Very happy with the look so far.   

How is the table coming?  Pictures!!  I really like the lines of your design.   

As far as my bookshelves - Thanks!  The office book shelf project I think is the largest built-in wood working project I have done totally by myself.  Yes, it did take some time.  I am gone so much and when I am home I have to spread out my time of course.  The next big event!  Drum Roll!! The mill work on our retirement home, a 2250 sq ft single level retro Craftsman style bungalow home.  We got the plans and engineering back this week!!!  It is designed with a lot of built-ins, six interior columns supporting the room dividers, all will be stained wood.  A bunch of wainscot and some chair rail and picture rail and a Murphy bed.  Any one that wants to drop in and sand we will furnish the sandpaper and dust masks and refreshments.  Or hey anybody coming through Idaho after about the middle of August drop in and say Hi!  I promise I won't put you to work but can show you some of Idaho way-away from the potato fields.     
       

Thanks Rick, the table is basically done.  I put the last coat of finish on thursday night.  I have to admit after the last coat it looks a bit like varnish, but it hadn't fully cured so we'll see.  The waterlox did darken the wood to a nice color.  The guy at the store reccomended their semi gloss for the final coat, and I probably should have listened to him.   I'll post some pictures Sunday evening (eastern time).  Please start a build thread for your craftsman style home.  I love that style and will be interested to follow your project.  That genre will give give you plenty of options for creativity and attractive features.  I'm sure you have discovered but there are loads and loads of books out there for insparation.  Many available through the library.  

Edit, pictures of the completed table added. 







Also, here is the first part of the next project.  It's going to be a TV stand that looks like a sofa table.  Or maybe it will be a sofa table that functions as a TV stand. I am going to have to pick up some new router bits and a dado blade to complete it the way i have envisioned in my head.

The table turned out very nice!  That is a fun wood to work with.  I have a blanket chest cut out if it for my daughter, I came across it the other day.  It has been sitting for several years.   

I think I am finding out I am sort of < (wrong) really a lot > attention deficit disorder  That might be why I am better at build ins.  They are a lot more in your face got to do it, get 'er done.  Well the chest might end up as my grand daughters the way I am going!

Thanks rick. 

To anyone interested I did end up taking off the bread board ends (if you can really call them that) and re screwing through the board with a larger diameter so that the screws have some play to move back and forth with the wood.  Just from moving it from my garage (which is kinda heated because it's under my family room)  up to my family room caused the board to protrude out a good 1/16th of an inch. In effect trying to seperate the glue up.  I feel better about it now though. 

If you have a hygrometer on a thermometer check the relative humidity down below and in the family room. My bet is that you'll find it a few % higher in the garage. That was a good demonstration though, if you try to restrain wood movement it will either split something or shove something, it has to be allowed to move.

I worked in a cabinet shop for a couple of years, one of our projects was a mahogany raised panel library in a fine home. The client insisted on very wide panels and the boss went for it. The installation was done but several arch topped windows were not there yet... uh-oh. We had a few days of rainy weather, no liquid water got in but the humidity was near 100%. The panels bottomed in their grooves and with nowhere else to go they shoved the walls of the large room almost 2"  . An old method of splitting stone was to bore holes, drive in dry wooden wedges and then keep them wet, the wood wins.

"The panels bottomed in their grooves and with nowhere else to go they shoved the walls of the large room almost 2"  . An old method of splitting stone was to bore holes, drive in dry wooden wedges and then keep them wet, the wood wins."

Wow, I'm impressed!

Also why the reccomend leaving a gap when installing hardwood flooring between the flooring and the studs.

Mike it will expand and contract when the humidity changes during the year. If it is too close and no allowance it could buckle.

Yea, that's what I was trying to say not so eloquently...