Dogtrot at Hightop

Started by Redoverfarm, November 25, 2007, 08:34:07 PM

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Redoverfarm

Larry the biggest permit and concern was "whether my wife would permit me to do this" ;D  As for other permits no.  I am not restricted in any building process other than the well and septic.  The health department oversee's that issue.  Other than that I was on a open reign.  As you had read the post there were several things I had to overcome but made it through the most of them.  Alot of factors came into play that in a newer log homes would not be an issue.

BiggKidd

John,

I understand about the PERMITING in the family. I'm lucky long as I'm the one doing the work mine lets me get away with lots. ;D If it doesn't cost to much that is.

Larry
A hard life only makes you stronger.

Larry


John_C

Redoverfarm

How wide is the space between the two buildings?  Thanks

Redoverfarm

Just a little under 10'.  With the 36" door that gives a nice area on both sides to put stone on to sort of balance it out.

Homegrown Tomatoes

Hey Red, the cabin is coming together great.  If you decide to go with the stamped tin, I highly recommend American Tin Ceiling company.  We got our tin ceiling tiles from them when we did our kitchen walls in WI.  They had better prices than just about anyone, and a good selection, as well as really good customer service.


Redoverfarm

I was looking forward to this day and it has arrived.  I finished the inside chinking yesterday.  With the additional interior walls that were not matching the exterior one I think my total time on the interior chinking was 118 hours (give or take a few  c*).
There was about 4 more logs in the loft area over the kitchen.  Most of that work was done in the prone position because they were too low (meeting the floor) to get to even while stooping.  My knee's let me know last night.

Now onto the next thing.  There are so many next thing's that I will have to sleep on the decision.  It will come to me in the morning.  I guess the weather will be a deciding factor.  If it is going to be clear several days in a row I might attempt to set up the scaffolding and finish the chimney.  If not I can work on the interior partitions or rock the front entry way or the inside flue.  Thats what's nice about getting to this stage in construction the weather becomes less of a factor in beating the day in.

Living room end wall



Small wall seperating Kitchen from Living room


ScottA

Nice work John. It always feels good to hit a milestone. Maybe I missed it somewhere...what's the square footage total of the 2 cabins and the dogtrot?

Redoverfarm

Scott the main floor is 928 sq ft and the loft is 560 sq ft.  The main floor incorporates the "dogtrot" which has the fireplace/wood cookstove and entry door.  Those sq ft are the foundation demensions so the actual finished room sizes are slightly less.  The lofts are the same and you have to take into consideration the rafters and the useable space. 

CWhite

It's looking good Redoverfarm! 
As many hours as you spent doing the chinking were worth while.  It sure turned out well. 
Good to see the updates.
Christina


BiggKidd

John,

Congadulations on finishing the chinking. [cool] I know thats a load off. Sure looks great too. So much for mud your concrete mix looks much better. I'm sure that the wire was easier to work with than straw and horse hair. Have to love mixing new technoligy with old. Makes for a great project.

Larry
A hard life only makes you stronger.

Larry

Redoverfarm

Larry they sell a synthetic chink.  The coverage is 1/2" thick X 2" wide X 76' per 5-gallons @ $115.  At that rate I would have had $3-4K in the chink.  As it turned out it was about 20 bags of Type S @ $7.50 per bag and 1-1&1/2 tons of sand @ $48 per ton.   The wire was about $150. I guess if you do the math it comes out to about $372. But the labor was not cheap  ;D.  It probably will hairline crack some but hey it's a log cabin and as you said it beats the other way which I am sure was more drafty than my verson.  Several people told me to mix vermiculite(sp?) it would stretch the formula out some and give a little more R-value but I have seen it before and didn't care for the finish.  Thanks for the comment. 

Willy

Your log cabin is coming along nice! Glad I don't have chinking to do it would freeze before it dried. I like the look of the logs. If I could find some good barn wood I would do my living room area in it for some primitive look inside. I hope to bring up my stairs soon but I need to get the siding up first. I am going back tuesday to start that part and hope to have it enclosed soon. Supposed to be warmer tuesday up in the 50s with no high winds like were having now. Plywood and paper is hard to put up in the wind. Mark

Redoverfarm

OK I have a decision to make regarding the porch on the cabin as far as the finished appearance.  One option would be to add the facia board to the false rafter and stain to match the other facia.  The other option would be to build in the upper portion of the roof ends sort of like a gabel end on the upper portion from the rake or facia board (porch front) to the cabin.  The pitch is about a 3-1/2"/12' so at the intersection of the cabin it will not be that much( 27").  The material would be Board & Batten similar to the gabel ends of the cabin.

I realize this is probably a personal preference but I would like a little suggestions from someone else.  I have attached a couple of photos of each end so you will have some visual references.

Thanks

John





 

glenn kangiser

Boxing the tops of the ends would block your view from the porch.

I would get log slabs to match your posts - cut them to board size from the back on width then use them as facia boards over the end dimensional boards-- then they would also look like logs.  Try to include a few knots sticking out.

That's just me though -- feel free to ignore me.  d*  [crz]
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.


PEG688



I like Glenns idea of the fake log rake / barge / verge board  IF you have allowed enough roofing to over hang to protect that thick a rake board. If not I'd go for a normal rake board,  3/4" thick,  as it does appear that you have enough roofing to cover that thickness board. I think hard to tell exacting from the photo.

But you don't want a board or 1/2 log sticking out so water can run in , wick in between the rafter and trim piece , that invites ROT.

Again it's that whole thing of keeping the water out / thinking like rain deal.   

It also appears you have your roof sheathing running past the last rafter / rake / barge rafter about 2 " or more. I cover that "end grain" of the ply either with what called a shingle mold , ( which can be a 1x2 , or a molded piece of trim , different areas do different things )  or by simply holding the rake board up the thickness of the sheathing so the sheathing is hidden by the rake board.
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .

glenn kangiser

Barge board -- I can never remember the terms.. hmm

If you select the proper slab it can de quite thin on top and the rain would follow around the face to drip off the bottom.  I lay them out on the flat back with a chalk line then cut them with a circular saw to get the width I want with the shape I want.
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.

Redoverfarm

It's been awhile since I posted an update on the cabin progress so I thought I would give you a little glimps of what has been going on.  I parged the front entry way and put up the stone.  I will go back and grout/tuck the joints after it has had a chance to set up for a week or so.  Anyone wondering what the plastic is above the door it is a shield to protect the rock as I still have to stain the ceiling above the door.  When the rock is finished I will be able to drape the plastic over the rock to apply the stain and just pull it out when finished (stapled).

Been parging the flue on the interior.  Thats a job in it's self. It measures 3' X 7'6" and is about 20' tall.  Alot of surface.  All of the 1st floor area is done and it is up on the scaffolding for the rest tht faces the living room.  I can manage the top part without scaffolding from the loft floor on three sides. 

I had an after thought. I guess that's why it takes me so long to get the job done. Not really just a little detour.  I decided to put a outlet above the mantle. It will be a duplex plug and in addition it will also house the television cable and telephone jack(satelite programing).  It's a logical location for a flat screen television.

Tommarow it's back to the scaffolding 2nd story to finish up the tall side and then onto the other sides.



If you are wondering how I managed to put the wire and box in the concrete block I used a 7-1/2" diamond blade in the circular saw set at 45 deg and cut in two direction to form a v-groove.  Then drilling pilot holes at an angle and use of Simpson deck nails driven in halfway and bent over the wires held them tight.  As you can see in the picture at a side wall the wire is now covered and the recepticle wall is still exposed (in photo) but is now covered. 




BiggKidd

John,

The rock work around the door looks great. I hope I can do some when we build. Your place is looking great. Thanks for posting.


   Larry 
A hard life only makes you stronger.

Larry

ScottA

John that rock looks great. Is that a natural stone or is it store bought? Reason I ask is I'd like to do something like that behind my woodstove if it's suitable.

MountainDon

Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.


Redoverfarm

Scott it is cultured stone. Real easy to install.  I used 1/2" ply, then followed by Ice/storm guard, lathwire and then parged. Buttered the stone with mortar and stick it to the parge.  I call it "lick & stick" stone.  Stone measured 1- 1 half thick and can be cut with a angle grinder and diamond blade.  Hardest part is the layout. Figuring out the best design to make it look authentic.  They say you can install it from either direction(top to bottom or vice versa. Have better luck with climbing up. Some of the larger stones are heavy and I use cut off and chips as wedges on those just for a minute or two.  I will post some pics after the finished product it will look better.  Thanks for the comment.

CWhite

Love the entrance John.  The stone looks castle-like and matches the door really well.  I think your attention to detailed prep-work is what saves you a lot of headaches and keeps your work area so clean. 
Thanks for posting the pics.  I like following your project.
Christina

glenn kangiser

That's a beauty entrance, John.
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.

Sassy

Beautiful - always look forward to seeing updates on your progress!
http://glennkathystroglodytecabin.blogspot.com/

You will know the truth & the truth will set you free

Redoverfarm

Scott as an afterthought on my reply concerning the stone you might consider using concrete backerboard on the wall. It will be in close proximity of the woodstove.  If you don't have enough clearance to use plywood. If you have the stone in a large area behind the stove it will also absorb some heat and continue to staywarm even after the fire has died down.