1 and 1/2 Story 20x30 Alberta Cottage

mvk · June 09, 2008, 05:38:20 PM

Great idea Jerry, just drill and bolt through the bar?
Mike

TheWire · June 09, 2008, 09:25:33 PM

I thought about drilling through the bar, which I wouldn't think 1/4 holes would hurt it. But I took 4 blocks of oak 1x4 that were about 3" longer than the bar was wide. I then made 2 small dados in each block where the chain was. Then I placed a pair of blocks on each side if the bar and used 4 heavy screws on the out edge of the blocks to clamp the blocks together with the bar in the middle. It worked well, but you definitely want to keep the blocks tight or the screws could go in into the chain

June 09, 2008, 10:12:40 PM

Thanks guys. I'll give the skilsaw a go this weekend. If I can figure out how to post pics I will next week.

glenn kangiser · June 10, 2008, 01:31:03 AM

We'll help -- there is a tutorial on using Photobucket in forum news -- it's easy.

Alberta Curt · June 21, 2008, 07:18:57 AM

https://s217.photobucket.com/albums/cc127/hockey_66/?action=view&current=a1f4ab66.pbw

Let me know if this works guys. Included pcitures of the D6 cat we had to bring in to pull out the Bobcat, two trucks, and a tractor. Needless to say, its been an interesting month.

Two questions:

1. I'm doing the floor this weekend - nails or screws?
2. The posts in the front of the cabin are 4" high. I want to evetually brace them and was thinking of 4x6 cross member from the top of one to the bottom of the other. Any thoughts?

(from John: I copied the direct address of one of your photos into the image brackets and it shows up here.)

June 21, 2008, 10:50:19 AM

Screw are not structurally rated in most cases. They shear instead of give with movement of the wood. Screw nails or ring shanks are my choice but others don't always care for them -- about 9 times the hold power of regular nails per Kern.

Alberta Curt · June 22, 2008, 09:37:57 PM

Thanks for the info. Went out this weekend and got most of the floor done. Still a little concerned about the front of the cabin being 5 feet off the ground. Deck will be at least 6 feet. It now feels like we are getting somewhere.

Sure need some feedback about different types of bracing I could use on the posts.

John Raabe · June 22, 2008, 10:44:20 PM

See the "Alternative Bracing" detail on sheet 1A. This would be for the taller posts and braces to the beams. The bracing should be PT if within 6" of the soil. Also see p. 10 in the booklet for tips on straps and anchors that can make the rest of the structure more rigid. Much of this will also apply to Post & Pier foundations.

Alberta Curt · June 30, 2008, 11:37:19 PM

Walls almost complete...........

[img width=512height=384]https://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc127/hockey_66/walls.jpg[/img]

June 30, 2008, 11:42:12 PM

Nice site.

Alberta Curt · July 01, 2008, 10:56:42 AM

Thanks John. A couple of questions after our work this weekend...........

1. I didn't use 2x6 above and below the window/door headers. The header rests on the trimmer studs and the top crpple studs are toe-nailed into the header. Are there any structural issues with this?

2. Can 2x8's be used for loft joists? The joists will be resting on a 2x4 load bearing wall at the 10' point.

John Raabe · July 01, 2008, 03:54:27 PM

The framing looks slightly OVE (optimum value engineering) but I don't see a problem. Comparing yours to this from Wagner...

I see you have eliminated a couple of supports under the bottom 2x6 window sill and extras at the top of the header. I do not think these add necessary support or strength.

Yes, almost any species 2x8 joist can span 10' feet when 16" o/c. - #1 D/F can go to 24" o/c spacing.

Alberta Curt · July 08, 2008, 09:18:55 PM

How far down does the sheathing go? Just over the bottom plate? To the bottom of the header joist? Cover the posts?

I've heard lots of different opinions.

Redoverfarm · July 08, 2008, 09:43:35 PM

If it were mine it would continue to the bottom of the rim joist(framework inclosing floor joist). In some locations from your pics your rim joist sits flush to your support beams. At that location you will have to decide a method to keep the water from running onto that beam. Not real sure of the siding of choice but this has to be protected as well as to the bottom of the rim joist. Just think "water" and how it will make it's way down the side of your building and plan how to keep the wood dry.

If you would stop the siding at the sill plate then you would have a location for water to get to your rim joist unless you flashed it. Any flashing should be made to force the water away from the wood and down. Make since?

July 08, 2008, 09:55:49 PM

One of the main considerations is bracing. The OSB or other sheathing ties the joists and rimjoist etc to the walls and keeps things from wanting to topple over right at the hinge point created where the studs are nailed at the bottom plate. PEG has mentioned that 9' sheathing is available and can be soldiered - stood vertically to tie all together.

Alberta Curt · July 08, 2008, 10:29:50 PM

Thanks guys. I think I'm going to run the sheathing an inch or two over the beam. thought about running it right down over the beam, protecting the top of the post as well, but this might be a little much.

Once again, all of your feedback is appreciated!

MountainDon · July 09, 2008, 05:50:01 PM

Hey Alberta Curt, I looked over all the photos in your photobucket album. Nice.

Question (and sorry if I missed the answer someplace); I see you appear to have used PT posts in ground. What was that black coating? Roofing tar? Also what did you do at the bottom of the hole? Gravel, concrete pad, wood slab?

Thanks

Alberta Curt · July 09, 2008, 05:57:25 PM

The black stuff on the posts is a damp proof foundation tar recommended by the local Building Inspector. I used 5' holes, with 24" cement footing 8" high, 3' of wash rock, and topped off with clay backfill.

Lots of work hauling all that stuff in on quad, but I think it is well worth it.