Okanogan 14x24 by a lurker :)

[OlJarhead]

Josh and I are about half way through the last 45 pieces of T&G -- or so -- 'bout an hours worth of routing and then we ought to be finished   I've also tried some wipe on poly coat and it seems to be excellent on the pine!  I'm totally stoked because it means I may be able to start finishing the interior now too!

When we head up next weekend we should be carrying right around 90 pieces of paneling with us   That is enough to finish the lower section to the lofts and to get some of the porch completed too!

I just can't express how excited I am to be at this stage of the build and to be able to take 'homework' home with me after each trip!

My plan is to get all of the interior paneling done in the next month, then to start on the floor!!!  Maybe I'll be ready for running water and decks etc by the spring

[RIjake]

OJH what model Kimber do you have? 

My EDC is a Stainless Pro-Carry with night sights.  It's wearing the stock black rubbery grips right now but I switch 'em out when I feel like a change.  Love that gun!

[OlJarhead]

OJH what model Kimber do you have? 

My EDC is a Stainless Pro-Carry with night sights.  It's wearing the stock black rubbery grips right now but I switch 'em out when I feel like a change.  Love that gun!

Mine is the Custom TLE II and I use it as an EDC gun also (even though it's bigger then the Pro-Carry guns).  Though I can't say I'm always carrying and I can't say I not!  Gotta love CCW

I love the TLE II but my eyes are starting to fade and I'm finding I'm shooting the old Ruger Vaquero better these days!  Go figure.

[OlJarhead]

Yes I think we're ready to get busy at the cabin!  Can it be Friday NOW! 


It felt so good to get all of these planed and ready to nail up.  And to do it all with plenty of time to do other things

Also, the Minwax wipe on poly coat is looking very light and easy to use...I'm thinking it might just be the ticket for us

[rick91351]

Pine Boards I love them!! 

Nothing triggers my want to get in a get a house or cabin done more than the feel and smell of them. 

Your planer does a good job on them.  I notice very little to zero sniping.  Did you use a router and routing table for the T/G?  I think I seen where you had a new router coming or arrived!

   

[OlJarhead]

Pine Boards I love them!! 

Nothing triggers my want to get in a get a house or cabin done more than the feel and smell of them. 

Your planer does a good job on them.  I notice very little to zero sniping.  Did you use a router and routing table for the T/G?  I think I seen where you had a new router coming or arrived!

   

Ryobi planer -- seems to work very well

Ryobi plunge router and Ryobi router table with Amana bits   Works like a charm and we did all 90+ boards this weekend in about 6 hours of work or less

[OlJarhead]

I should have asked "what is 'zero sniping'"?

I was thinking about that and forgot to ask when typing my response.

One thing I have to learn is how to adjust the blades as I'm assuming that at some point it will need that.

[Redoverfarm]

I should have asked "what is 'zero sniping'"?

I was thinking about that and forgot to ask when typing my response.

One thing I have to learn is how to adjust the blades as I'm assuming that at some point it will need that.

That is at the beginning or mostly at the end of the board as it enters or exits leaving marks or lower planner cut.  An infeed and outfeed table helps some.

Not real sure but I doubt that adjustment will help. Some have a setting block for the correct heigth when installing the blades but do little on worn blades.  Try to PU a xtra set of blades and just trade off as they become dull.  While you are using the newer set have someone to sharpen the old set.

[OlJarhead]

That is at the beginning or mostly at the end of the board as it enters or exits leaving marks or lower planner cut.  An infeed and outfeed table helps some.

Not real sure but I doubt that adjustment will help. Some have a setting block for the correct heigth when installing the blades but do little on worn blades.  Try to PU a xtra set of blades and just trade off as they become dull.  While you are using the newer set have someone to sharpen the old set.

Oh gotcha!  That happens whenever the 'outfeeder' (i.e. my son) doesn't guide the board out straight, level and smoothly but we don't much care to be honest since we will cut off the ends anyway.

I try to mill all the wood long by at least 3" and more often then not 6".  That way I can trim off the ends (which aren't square anyway) and have a nice clean 8' piece of lumber

Good idea on the blades, just like the sawmill then

[OlJarhead]

Anyone know if you can have miter saw / table saw blades sharpened?  This is something I've just never considered frankly but the other day I was wondering if it wasn't a terrible waste to toss them.  I keep them hung in the shed just in case but I can't recall (even from years ago in the business) that anyone ever sharpened them.

[OlJarhead]

Just did a search and it does seem like people do this.....anyone use a service?

[OlJarhead]

On a side note anticipation is building for the next trip

I have roughly 90 boards in widths from 7" to 4" and mostly in 8' lengths (though some are 4' and an equal amount are 6' -- we cut some 10' boards down) with an average overall of 4.5" face width (T&G) this gives me about 200 square feet of T&G and about 85-90 of it is needed to complete the lower section of the cabin (if my math is correct).

The porch is 6'x8' with 3 walls that need interior paneling and insulation.  Each wall has a 3x3 window in it and one has a 3x7 door in it as well as a battery box taking up about 8 square feet of wall, so....about 100 +/- square feet of walls to cover....that means I SHOULD have enough T&G to either finish the porch also, or come very close   Though not the ceiling of it.

I'll have to stuff insulation but we have some on hand so no worries there   I'm thinking it's possible that we might just get it done!  I also have the tile for the floor so that may also get completed   I hope so!

Imagine that, an insulated and mostly finished porch and lower section of the cabin all in one trip

Then we'll be bringing back a ton of dried pine for planing and milling into T&G as well as a bunch of Blue Stained pine for planing and making into interior trim. 

With luck, we will have enough pine to finish off the lofts and ceilings within a month or so

[Redoverfarm]

Anyone know if you can have miter saw / table saw blades sharpened?  This is something I've just never considered frankly but the other day I was wondering if it wasn't a terrible waste to toss them.  I keep them hung in the shed just in case but I can't recall (even from years ago in the business) that anyone ever sharpened them.

. 

Unless they are real expensive blades it will cost you nearly as much to have them sharpened as it will to buy new ones.  Carbide blades unlike the older steel blades are almost impossible to sharpen unless you have the right stones.  There are nearly always someone near a timber industry that sharpens tools.  Just look around or call a woodwork shop/mill and inquire where they get theirs done.  It might be cost effective to resharpen if you found the right person at a reasonable price.  As for router or shaper blades , sharpening will change the profile some so it is hard to match up previously shaped pieces with those recently done after sharpening.

[OlJarhead]

. 

Unless they are real expensive blades it will cost you nearly as much to have them sharpened as it will to buy new ones.  Carbide blades unlike the older steel blades are almost impossible to sharpen unless you have the right stones.  There are nearly always someone near a timber industry that sharpens tools.  Just look around or call a woodwork shop/mill and inquire where they get theirs done.  It might be cost effective to resharpen if you found the right person at a reasonable price.  As for router or shaper blades , sharpening will change the profile some so it is hard to match up previously shaped pieces with those recently done after sharpening.

Good to know!  Thanks...I was wondering about router bits because I have a couple sets of T&G bits now.  They both seem ok but I've done a lot of wood with them....any idea how long they typically last?  Heck, I've cut no less then 160 boards into T&G....that's roughly 480 feet of cutting so far.

[MountainDon]

I've had 80 tooth carbide blades sharpened locally for about $25; less than buying a new quality blade.They can also replace tips that have broken and sharpen router bits.

I also did a quick Google and found an online service
http://www.burnstools.com/blade_sharpening.html
You scan your blade and send them the file and then...    Nah... pulling your leg on that, although they do blades sent to them.  

[OlJarhead]

I've had 80 tooth carbide blades sharpened locally for about $25; less than buying a new quality blade.They can also replace tips that have broken and sharpen router bits.

I also did a quick Google and found an online service
http://www.burnstools.com/blade_sharpening.html
You scan your blade and send them the file and then...    Nah... pulling your leg on that, although they do blades sent to them.  

$25 doesn't seem too bad.  I pay about $35 for Diablo blades at HD which seem to work very well and last a long time...saving $10 a blade might be worth the trouble.

[MountainDon]

Right, and a good blade or a good sharpening will last a long time if stupid things don't happen. Cutting nails and the like. I've done that inadvertently with a $100 blade;  it actually survived quite well. 

[rick91351]

About bench planers -- Sniping can be reduced by the use of a in feed and out feed tables.  The table needs to rise just a little on the out feed side this must be experimented with what a little is per machine.  The in feed as well but not as important as out feed.  Bench planers are known for this problem.  In our cases where we plan a lot of pine, and pine is not really expensive and you are not trying to get ever centimeter out of a a $100 piece of Rosewood it is true sniping is not a huge deal.

My current planer has power problems and needs some TLC.  So what do I do new motor or replace?

The Dewalt I want has two tables, but not included.  But heavily suggested that it would be good if purchased with the product.  Only another hundred dollars plus shipping.  Oh ya don't forget a second set of knives.     Anything else I need?  Like a bottomless wallet!

Check out blade return service.  The initial blade is sort of high but not bad.  You use it up drop it off at the lumber yard and pick out a replacement for a fraction of the cost.  The owners the replacement service are betting you will not.  The owner of our local lumber yard says it is a pretty good business for them.  The people that use it are good customers that buy lots of lumber even in this down time.     

[Ndrmyr]

I've been running a 12" 100 toother on my Delta Miter Saw and have had it sharpened twice.  A local sharpening service sharpens in a CNC mill and frankly I think it is sharper than when it was new.  Just had it done last week and it was $16 for the 100 toother.  I'm using the gold Ridgid blade sold at Home Depot and it is made by Freud for Ridgid and costs less than the red Freuds.  Leaves end grain on a crosscut feeling like it was sanded. Buy better blades and sharpen them.  I'm not the biggest fan of narrow kerf blades since they deflect easily. Was cutting 3" foam board on the table saw and the foam would deflect the blade enough to get a crooked cut. Had to put a standard kerf blade on to solve the problem.  Nice looking boards, you'll love the look.

[MountainDon]

Leaves end grain on a crosscut feeling like it was sanded.

I liken the end grain cut to a glass like smoothness. Really amazing what a truly fine blade will do.

[OlJarhead]

What a difference a weekend can make

After bringing home a small load of lumber and making it into T&G and bringing it to the cabin....well a picture is worth a thousand words right?


All the lower section of the cabin is now paneled or drywalled


There is just something about seeing all that pine on the walls and knowing the insulation is no longer your main wall covering


One thing that was pure luck was that we matched up perfectly to the previous paneling we'd done despite the different sized boards!  I thought I was going to have to do some 'custom' work there but didn't have to


Even had enough left over stock to start on the porch!


Ran out of time before stock so when we return we'll have enough stock to finish the porch and then all the new stuff we make and bring with us   I expect to have the loft done in the next month or two now too!

[JavaMan]

Sweet progress!  I'm green with envy, since I haven't made it up this year at all...

[rick91351]

Looks great!  Is that a 6" then 4" pattern?  I think that would also look good in a wainscot running them vertical.  Doing it over would you stick to the T&G or go with ship-lap?  I see advantages of both.  Your routed T&G patterned seems to have matched up very well.  It sure does not hurt that you did not run up a huge lumber bill either!  Prorating the router and planer into the project all tools you will have for years to come.  Your out lay will diminish with each project and phase you complete.       

[OlJarhead]

Sweet progress!  I'm green with envy, since I haven't made it up this year at all...

Sorry you haven't made it up there yet!  I hope you get a chance soon bud!

[BRUTAL]

Man that looks really great, and even better since you produced it. I had alot of pines on my other piece of property I sold I could have used because they were everywhere. Now I just have alot of Oaks and Cedar Elms. Some of the Elms need to come down. Anyone know if this is a good Cedar to use for panelling? If so I may end up getting a sawmill and planer too. I like the idea of owner produced lumber. Gives something else to talk about in addition to "es I built this cabin by myself and no it wasnt a kit"