welding 101

StinkerBell · December 11, 2010, 05:49:30 PM

Well took my intro welding class. I am a natural! No issues keeping my spark, that was easy. Made a weld and told it was not pretty but was a passable weld! My instructor was impressed considering it was my first time.

bayview · December 11, 2010, 06:44:34 PM

Congratulations . . . A journey started with a simple spark!

/.

December 11, 2010, 06:45:42 PM

stick or wire?

StinkerBell · December 11, 2010, 06:51:58 PM

Stick.

MountainDon · December 11, 2010, 06:54:58 PM

Good place to start. MIG wire feed is nicer when you learn the ropes (IMO) No slag to chip off

I don't even know where my chipping hammer is anymore...

Gotta remember to go refill the spare bottle.

December 11, 2010, 07:02:36 PM

At one point I thought the instructor was calling me a slag.......I almost smacked him..but then he went and was chipping my work to show me what "slag" (something sounding like that word) is.

glenn kangiser · December 11, 2010, 08:25:22 PM

When welding there is a barely visible difference in the color of the slag and the molten metal. Work to differentiate and see that puddle and make it do what you want at the edge of and under the slag.

It is slag, and it is a byproduct of the welding flux rod coating that provides an atmosphere conducive to carrying the arc and cleaning the weld metal.

GMAW gas /metal arc welding or Mig as, Don mentioned, uses just a gas shielding that can blow away in the breeze with a continuously fed wire electrode, but otherwise is very nice. Dual shield used in shops uses both gas and inner shielding flux in the center of the wire.

FCAW flux cored arc welding uses just flux cored wire and is common in the little wire welding boxes from the big box stores. Quality of the machines vary greatly with Miller being about the best. NR211 MP meets codes up to 1/2" thick unless there is some other prohibition against it. Some of the other wires for this process are not listed therefore do not meet code.

Congrats on the start of your new learning experience, Stinky.... that you are good at it does not surprise me.

StinkerBell · December 11, 2010, 08:39:49 PM

I will take picture of my weld and post tomorrow. I am just so tickled I was able to do it.

peternap · December 11, 2010, 09:12:01 PM

Congratulations!
Keeping the arc is something very few beginners can do.

FWIW, I've never made a pretty weld.

December 11, 2010, 09:32:47 PM

I will be looking forward to seeing your weld.

Mine are not always pretty either, Peter, as I do a lot of out of position welds and one off welds. If making the same weld for a while, then they usually get pretty. Each application or change of materials - thick - thin - thick to thin - 100 ft - 200 feet of cable - all things change ideal settings but there is usually a range that will make good welds even though not totally the prettiest.

glenn kangiser · December 11, 2010, 09:37:13 PM

Also - what type stick are you using, Stinky? 7018, 6011? two of the most common ones for all position. The first two numbers indicate tensile strength of the filler metal 70,000 or 60,000 psi tensile strength. The second numbers have to do with the coating type and position of use allowed or that it is usable for. Some rods are not made for other than flat welding.

Phssthpok · December 11, 2010, 11:12:48 PM

I used to fit/weld/fabricate in a heavy manufacturing plant building freight rail-cars. We used 1/16 dual-shield for the smaller welds (up to 3/4" multipass) and 3/32 dual-shield for the larger welds. Our smallest transformer was powered by 480v three phase 30 amp outlets. Most were 60 amp jobbies. Many had digital controls, and a dual setting switch that allowed you to alternate setting without touching any other controls. For example, there were several sub-assemblies that required horizontal, vertical AND overhead welds. Being able to flip a switch to change settings to run a vertical is AWFULLY handy in a production environment.

The most productive day I ever had, I burned through 4 and 2/3 spools of 1/16" wire in 8 hours at 33lbs/spool...I was adding about 10 Lbs of finished weld to each part I was doing.

(Le sigh...) I've been out of work for almost two years now. Much as I was getting to hate production welding day-in and day-out (it's always the same...no matter WHAT part you're welding, you're still just burning wire), there are times I miss the brainless simplicity of a 9 to 5 job. $:-\$

glenn kangiser · December 11, 2010, 11:31:27 PM

That is cool.

... on the other hand - that is hot... a lot of wire.... I burn over a 13 lb spool on a good hard day running an LN25 feeder - usually around 100 to 250 IPM. Not a lot of days of steady welding anymore though. Mine is all field work - or about 95% of it is.

I installed for Saf-T-Cab for about 6 years. They did similar to that there -but no automatic stuff I don't think - lots of dual shield. The structural steel shops I work with use dual shield mostly also I think ...think I have seen some NR311 there too.

In the field I use NR232 .072 or .068 Innershield exclusively or 7018 stick for nearly all structural welds - moment frames etc. Nearly no wind problems with NR232 since no gas is used. No bottle to lug around either. For welding decking I use 7010 HYP straight polarity - plug welding but I try to avoid that.

I have never been in a shop production welding - I get bored too easily --ADD I guess.

Now I mostly contract troubleshoot or run the company shop crew in the field and weld if I want or assign their guys to do it on a T and M basis as well as rent my crane to them with me so I can afford to run their crew. Straight T&M for my time is not enough to keep up. I also get travel from the time I leave the shop (home) to the time I return, as well as expenses. If I am not free to work on something else then I have to charge for it. I still don't have a real job though. [ouch]

glenn kangiser · December 11, 2010, 11:32:29 PM

Oh yes, Stinky pardon the discussion, but I think you will need to pick up the lingo from us.......

December 12, 2010, 11:09:17 AM

Hogs gonna get the picture up for me. I used a 6011. Hog is looking on ebay f my Christmas Present..I am guessing an welding machine.

glenn kangiser · December 12, 2010, 11:51:43 AM

Cool. A good one for starting out. A kind of cellulose coating that actually allows Hydrogen to be a bit of the shielding gas. It is commonly used in farm applications and it or 6010 are used in oil field pipe welding quite a bit, especially older rusty pipe.

7018 is a Low Hydrogen rod with Iron powder in the coating for a bit faster filling or 7016 is a Low Hydrogen without the Iron powder, It's coating is Rutile and it produces a glassy dark brown slag coat that will always hit you in the eye if you chip it without safety glasses - a no-no.

7018 is harder to weld with but is what you will move up to as you get into structural steel or just when you want a smoother more bendable weld in machinery repairs. Hydrogen embrittlement can cause cracking in some instances so 7018 is designed to combat that and is usually kept in a rod oven on the job. Later studies indicate the hydrogen cracking is not as much of a problem as they originally thought - or perhaps subtle changes in coatings over the years have improved the situation.

I am surprised at some of the inaccurate information I found when double checking the spelling of rutile.

http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/stick-welding.html

glenn kangiser · December 12, 2010, 11:57:41 AM

...and Stinky, hold out for an AC/DC machine - even in the smaller stick machines.

As you progress you will want to get into DC if you are not already. You get a smoother better weld as you learn how to operate it, but there will be occasional eddy currents that cause arc blow. A magnetic condition that blows the arc in some other direction usually on a frame with perpendicular pieces. Changing the ground location or welding in the opposite direction of travel will often remedy that. In changing the direction, the arc blow is then used to your advantage for the most part.

AC prevents arc blow but splatters like Mt Vesuvius when welding.

Sassy · December 12, 2010, 12:49:00 PM

Way to go Stinky!

NetHog · December 12, 2010, 03:55:36 PM

Uploading pics for stink:

StinkerBell · December 12, 2010, 03:56:29 PM

sigh...It is a work of art!

December 12, 2010, 05:47:58 PM

Not bad - equal fusion on both legs, pretty smooth consistent bead and decent penetration.

StinkerBell · December 12, 2010, 08:02:05 PM

Thank you, thank you, thank you. I had fun too!

glenn kangiser · December 12, 2010, 09:08:57 PM

Yes ... there is something nice about being able to set steel on fire and fuse it together into new useful items or structures....

How far are you planning on going with your new skill?

StinkerBell · December 12, 2010, 09:17:33 PM

Well I am currently shopping for a 20' shipping container. I have plans! I want to have fun be creative and have it functional. I need to get the container then build my racks on top for my solar panels. I want round windows. Yup, it will have a submarine industrial funk feel to it. I hope to find a parascope to.

glenn kangiser · December 12, 2010, 09:28:28 PM

You are creative already.

Learn the settings for your rods and how to set your own welder so you will know how to do it when you are welding by yourself. The welding suppliers have booklets for rod parameters and that should get you to where you want to start from then adjust from there. You are your own best inspector. Make each new weld better than your last one.