Of termite shields, PT sills and chemical reactions...

[Erin]

OK, I can't find official "termite shield" (in fact, had a lengthy discussion with the owner of my local lumber yard about the fact that they're a relatively new phenomenon, what conspired to make that happen as well as the @#$% bureaucrats who control our lives and what we can buy/build. lol)

I can get plain old flashing in any width I might need.
Will standard flashing work?

And, since my sills are PT lumber, what do I need to do to protect the sill from the shield?  Or vice versa?  
Will sill seal work?  (that plastic foam stuff on a roll)  
Or do I need something in addition to sill seal?

[Texas Tornado]

You may want to contact a pest control company...My neighbor had the undersides of his flooring sprayed against pests...

[Erin]

I REALLY don't want chemicals in my house if I can avoid it.
And since northwest Kansas isn't a heavily infested area, I'm going to just mechanical controls if at all possible

[Don_P]

A case of not knowing what he was talking about led your lumber broker to spout off against government byoorocats. A termite shield has been made from standard flashing since well before the boy was born. With borate treated it doesn't much matter if there is contact between wood and metal. With normal ACQ there should be a barrier unless the flashing is...G90, I believe is the spec. Anyway this is a low moisture environment, a strip of tarpaper between sill and flashingwith sill seal between flashing and concrete is what we've been doing.

The flashing is typically breached or uninspectable in several locations real life. There is nothing wrong with dosing the wood with a borate... remember we are just a pile of chemicals, look up the MSDS's on them rather than dismissing them alltogether, Timbor, Boracare, Solubor. Borate has low mammalian toxicity but knocks out wood consuming insects and fungi. I'm heading down to the shop to continue to dip a batch of porch posts and beams.

[Erin]

Oh sorry!  lol
No, by the time we'd wandered into bureaucracy, we were long past termite shield.  I can't recall if it was before or after the New World Order though and how the Rockefellers control the US. 
However, actual termite shield is ideally made of zinc, if I'm remembering right. 

So you put your sill seal between the flashing and the concrete??
Isn't part of the purpose of sill seal to protect the wood from moisture in the concrete? (or condensation on the flashing, in this case)?

[Erin]

double post.

[Redoverfarm]

Erin on mine I used regular aluminum flashing.  In fact I picked up a roll and then using my bandsaw and cut it in half which was the right demension.  I used a foam roll seal against the block (concrete), followed by the termite shield and then followed by a layer of 30# felt paper.  The reason for the felt was to eliminate the corrosion of the aluminum by the chemicals in the pressure treated wood.  The termite shield should be bent to approximately 30Deg I think. Supposeably they can not make that degree climb and fall. 

[Don_P]

Ahh, in that case a rant against the goobermint is well within order  .
This is a dry use and there is a felt barrier so I doubt Redover's will fail but just as a FYI aluminum is not reccomended with the ACQ. I'd have to look it up on a galvanic series chart but I suspect you'll find aluminum and the green copper in ACQ are a good distance away from each other on the chart, meaning they make a good battery and arc away at one another. I have seen Al that was in contact with treated that was basically a pinholed net, if the conditions are right that concern is real. Galvanized flashing is protected by the sacrificial zinc coating. Solid zinc would be great, I've only run into it one time.

The termites can make a mud tube around the shield, it is in theory forcing them out into the open where you can see the mud tube. Any laps and holes need to be caulked, they can get through less than 1/32". If there is an area that you cannot visually inspect, that is where the mud tubes will be if there is one.