Rafter tie options?

Started by dug, July 07, 2010, 09:12:27 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

dug

I am looking for ideas on how to tie down my porch rafters for uplift protection. Right now they are just toenailed with screws.
Yes, I know the deal on screws, but the lumber was old and split like crazy when I tried to toenail them with nails.

I have a good supply of simpson H-1 brackets and in some ways I like the sort of industrial look they lend, however I would like a cleaner look along the supporting beam.

The standard rafter tie (simpson H3L?) is less obtrusive but would still be visible.

Any other options?

Don_P

One old method was 2x2's vertical tucked alongside the rafter and carry beam. The number of fasteners in each was appropritae to the load. I've seen nails and bolts in various strength woods.


John Raabe

Solid blocking toe-nailed into the beam and the rafters will provide some additional uplift protection. You might also look at the flexible A35 framing anchor. It has a number of ways it can be configured some of which might not be noticeable (especially if combined with blocking).

None of us are as smart as all of us.

Redoverfarm

Dug I went with 2X4 (or 2"X6") blocks every other bay nailed to the beam.  Then nailing the rafters to those.  Might not be code but where I am at it works.  If you wanted to make it look uniform I guess you could toe-nail blocks into the empty bays which would really serve to real purpose unless you decided to toe-nail the rafters to those.  But of course that is something that would have to happen before the sheeting.

dug

QuoteOne old method was 2x2's vertical tucked alongside the rafter and carry beam. The number of fasteners in each was appropritae to the load. I've seen nails and bolts in various strength woods.

Thanks! I'll mull that one over.

Dug I went with 2X4 (or 2"X6") blocks every other bay nailed to the beam.  Then nailing the rafters to those.  Might not be code but where I am at it works.  If you wanted to make it look uniform I guess you could toe-nail blocks into the empty bays which would really serve to real purpose unless you decided to toe-nail the rafters to those.  But of course that is something that would have to happen before the sheeting.
Posted on: Today at 10:12:09 AM Post

Do you mean lapping the block a few inches below the top of the beam and then nailing through the rafters into the end grain of the blocks? Just want to make sure I have a grip on the concept.

Thanks!



Redoverfarm

Quote from: dug on July 07, 2010, 08:21:03 PM
QuoteOne old method was 2x2's vertical tucked alongside the rafter and carry beam. The number of fasteners in each was appropritae to the load. I've seen nails and bolts in various strength woods.

Thanks! I'll mull that one over.

Dug I went with 2X4 (or 2"X6") blocks every other bay nailed to the beam.  Then nailing the rafters to those.  Might not be code but where I am at it works.  If you wanted to make it look uniform I guess you could toe-nail blocks into the empty bays which would really serve to real purpose unless you decided to toe-nail the rafters to those.  But of course that is something that would have to happen before the sheeting.
Posted on: Today at 10:12:09 AM Post

Do you mean lapping the block a few inches below the top of the beam and then nailing through the rafters into the end grain of the blocks? Just want to make sure I have a grip on the concept.

Thanks!



Dug I placed them on top of the beam with either the outside or inside parrallel to the beam face.  Secured to the beams by 16D and then nailed through the rafter sides into the end grain of the blocks.  I did mine when there was not sheeting so it was fairly easy to get to at that point.  To give a little more holding power I angled the nails in opposite directions into the beams through the blocks.  I guess you could use screws as well to attach the blocks to the beams.  I would however use nails to attach the rafter to the blocks as the shear strength would be much better.