I hate this truck!!!

[peternap]

HATE IT, HATE IT, HATE IT!!!!!!

The battle Continues.

While I was crawling around under the hood, putting the filter assembly back in, I cut a wire. New set of problems now.

I have no idea what this is, but I cut the red wire. I checked the voltage on it and both the yellow and red had 12 volt on them.

It's on the drivers side and it has an orange and black hose coming from them and go somewhere under the compressor.



Anyway, I finished the fuel filter, twited the red wire back together but didn't tape it (I was in a hurry)

Turned the key and the glow plugs worked, etc. I cranked it and it didn't start but I didn't expect it to first try. I let it rest and tried again.

It actually fired for a second, then died. I let it rest and turned the key on and no glow plugs or lights on the left side of the dash (Trouble, glow plugs Etc).
I checked under the hood and the red wire had touched the block.

I checked it with the light and it barely lit. I tried the key again and looked at the dash. The lights are there, but so weak, they can hardly be seen.

Battery ihas a full charge and I checked every fuse and all good.

Figured out what it was

boost solenoid, which regulates vacuum and monitor vac to the actuator.

The search continues and I'm ready to call a Priest.

Checked all the grounds and cleaned them ....no change.

Then I started checking voltages on wires. The one I cut is now 4 volts instead of 12.

Then I started checking near the fuel filter. I poked and prodded and when I checked these, the dash lights came on and the glow plugs cycled. Then back to no cycle the next time I tried it. i choked that harness and it worked fine again...then didn't after a few tries.

I have a broken wire or a burned wire or something is wrong in whatever this is.




I HATE IT,I HATE IT, I HATE IT

[Redoverfarm]

Peter I have found that the surge of power on a repaired wire if not securly fastened will arc just enough to loosen the twisted wire.  Just temporarily use a wire nut then come back with a regular connector if everything is OK.

On the filter.  On my truck I have to fill the filter full of deisel before installing it back on.  If not it will not pick it up enough to keep it running.  As they say never run a deisel empty.  That is basicly what you are doing with a dry filter.

[peternap]

Peter I have found that the surge of power on a repaired wire if not securly fastened will arc just enough to loosen the twisted wire.  Just temporarily use a wire nut then come back with a regular connector if everything is OK.

On the filter.  On my truck I have to fill the filter full of deisel before installing it back on.  If not it will not pick it up enough to keep it running.  As they say never run a deisel empty.  That is basicly what you are doing with a dry filter.

I soldered the wire  and the filter was full. I manually ran the lift pump until I had fuel coming out of the hose to the IP.
A trick that works on most diesels, put it in drive and turn the key to the start position. Since it's in gear, the starter won't work but the lift pump actuates. If you have a bleeder cap on the filter, open it and it will fill the filter canister.

The short burned something in that harness I think.

[Redoverfarm]

What can I say it's a GM product.

[peternap]

Amen....Then again, I have to put a radiator on the F150

[Redoverfarm]

Somehow I knew you were going to drag Ford into the picture.   

[rwanders]

  Probably nothing that can't be fixed with a trip to the nearest car crusher. GM light diesel vehicles have a long unhappy history (remember those hideous 350 ci so-called diesels they sold back in the 70's?)

[ScottA]

I quit working on cars (and trucks) when they came out with fuel injection and computers. Not worth my time and energy. May I suggest thermite?

[peternap]

I have the problem narrowed down (after 8 hourss of tracing wire) to the boost solenoid. The red wire is grounded somewhere. This us the one I cut...duh.

No idea where it is grounded but I cut a big section out and everything works like it should...well almot everything. This solenoid controls the wastegate actuator on the turbo. So it isn't working. Need to find the actual ground although I suspect it i more than that. I expect it has melted into another wire in the harness.

The day just gets more fun.

[peternap]

After all that...it was the switch

[Redoverfarm]

Oh Yeah Peter.  But look at the knowledge that you have gained. 

[MountainDon]

Seems to me iy was a very educational experience.     I learned some things.   

[CREATIVE1]

One of our cars had a wiring harness partially burned by an electric fuel pump that caught on fire. Got it going just fine with some spliced wire and a mile of electric tape.  We considered replacing the wiring harness until we saw what was involved.

[peternap]

One good thing came of it. I took the time to remove a very annoying safety feature that causes a lot of trouble.

The lift pump runs through the Oil Pressure switch. Chevy, in their infinite widom, didn't make the OP heavy enough to carry the current and they burn out. That's why I had to replace it. They will run without the lift pump but power suffers and it puts a lot of strain on the injector pump.

Since I had all the wires out anyway, I removed the lift pump from that circuit and wired it to a relay. the relay carries the current now and the trigger on the OPS just draws flea current.

It's a shame GM couldn't put a two dollar relay in.

[sparks]

Have access to thermite welding products if you need them in the future. The copper stuff is ok ....in large quantities......but the rail steel stuff makes a really good show and siezes up an engine better than sodium silicate.






sparks