Floor nail/screw questions

[firefox]

First off, this is a basic remodel. I just removed the previous owners
particle board & lenoleum from this 12 x 12 kitchen  which has 2 5 x 7 spurs coming off one wall.

I managed to get some 3/4" cdx tongue and grove  to put down over the
original termite eaten floor. Termites have been shown the door, which they proceeded to eat I have since delt with their wooden behavior.

1- Should I use some liquid nails and glue the sections together since it is such a small floor?

2- How should I nail or screw the cdx down. What kind of nailing pattern?

3- should I use 4 or 5 inch nails or screws and attempt to go right through to the joists.

4- Nails or screws. Tradeoffs?

Thanks to you all for the support!

Bruce

[PEG688]

   A : 12 x 12 kitchen  which has 2 5 x 7 spurs coming off one wall.



  1- Should I use some liquid nails and glue the sections together since it is such a small floor?

  2- How should I nail or screw the cdx down. What kind of nailing pattern?

  3- should I use 4 or 5 inch nails or screws and attempt to go right through to the joists.

   4- Nails or screws. Tradeoffs?

 

Bruce what have you got yourself into this time It is Bruce right the Marine??

  A: I don't follow the 5x7 spur things??

#1: So the old subfloor is stil in place but turned into swiss cheese by the termites??

  a) And your plan is to lay over this old crap and attach the new to it / thru it???

#2: I'd say rip  the old out sawsall it off flush with the wall plates and rip er out!!

This way your not raising  the "new" floor 3/4"  higher than the other adjoining rooms.

Yes you migh loose some structural tie , BUT IF the old stuff is shot you don't have much to begin with.

#3: IF you can't or won't remove the old I'd go with 16d Galv. hand driven nails , skip the glue IF the old subfloor is crap gluing to it is a waste of $$ . Nailer right thru space the nails 6"OC on the edges and 8 to 10 " in the field. 

The hand drives will pull every thing together gun driven nails will leave it slightly loose and you'll MTL get squeeks.

#4: Screw no shear , slower to drive , especally long ones.

Hand driven nails are the fastener for this job.

G/L PEG   

[Redoverfarm]

First off, this is a basic remodel. I just removed the previous owners
particle board & lenoleum from this 12 x 12 kitchen  which has 2 5 x 7 spurs coming off one wall.

I managed to get some 3/4" cdx tongue and grove  to put down over the
original termite eaten floor. Termites have been shown the door, which they proceeded to eat I have since delt with their wooden behavior.

1- Should I use some liquid nails and glue the sections together since it is such a small floor?

Not real sure about the touge portion but it will make it become tighter and avoid sweaks.  Providing that the underlayment is in good condition.  If not it would just pull loose.

2- How should I nail or screw the cdx down. What kind of nailing pattern?

With that small of an area I would pattern it 8-10".  Either using ring shank nails or deck screws.[/b

3- should I use 4 or 5 inch nails or screws and attempt to go right through to the joists.

Depends on the condition of the subfloor or is the cdx your new subfloor.  I would use a screw or nail that is long enough to get as much holding pattern as possible but not to the extent it would resurface on the underneath side. If the screw threads are exposed on the underside the holding power is decreased as the only holding power that a screw possess is it thread and head. And if possible attempt to locate the joist and then other locations off joist within your nailing patern 

4- Nails or screws. Tradeoffs?

Personally on flooring I like to use Screws.  Unlike verticle surfaces sheer is usually not an issue.

Thanks to you all for the support!

Bruce

[firefox]

Yep Peg,  It's that old Marine still trying to get the h__l out of here.

The spurs, one is a little breakfast nook and the other is a short hall way
laundry room leading into the kitchen.

It's a trade off, since the termites only chewed up a small section. Actually I will have to double check to see that they didn't go through the floor and the subfloor. Ofcourse the original floor is no great shakes anyway.

I'll see if it makes sense to rip up the original top floor  and replace it with the cdx. I really would like to bring the floor level down close to the other floors. The previous owner had already raised it up and cut all the door bottoms off etc.

Thanks for yours and redoverfarms help!!!

[firefox]

Correction, There is no subfloor, just the original single floor planking on top of the floor joists. Old house.
Bruce