vinyl windows and weep holes...

[MikeT]

For some reason, I mis measured a salvage window and thought it was a 3050 when in reality it is a 5030.  So other than the weep holes, is there a structural reason that I couldn't still use it with the orientation that I originally thought?  Could I cut my own weep holes?  This will be a location where one could not easily see the outside of the window.  By the way, it is a picture window (no moving parts).

Thanks,
mt

[FrankInWIS]

i don't see why not...but I am sub-expert.  I DO know one thing, and that is the importance of those weep holes.  I had leak in bay I built and it was so bad I re-built the bay once and still had leak after.  I tried many things, and finally found that the way I built the bay I had the windows in too deep for the weep holes to leek outside.  The didn't leak at all, I had it caulked up, but the water backed up in the channel and found it's own way into the jam framing.  I cut new weep holes on outside edge of window frame and problem was emilinated immediately. 

[MountainDon]

I would think that cutting new weep holes, as well as sealing the original ones, would be the way to go.

[glenn kangiser]

Weep holes could be cut with a 1/16 inch or thinner metal cut off blade in a grinder  - various dias. available.

[peternap]

DARN!!!! (that's not what I said, It's a family board)

I built the frames for all my windows from scratch and forgot to put the weep holes in. 

[PEG688]

 Fixed window no problem just cut a couple of more slots , there may be some rubber spacers behind that removeable strip , I'd pull it off , (slip a puddy knife under it between the glass and vinyl and it will pull free, they sort of clip into the frame in a "fish scale" way. Gently now no jankin , just nice even pressure ) if there are spacers I'd move them to what will be the bottom. They keep the glass from sagging / dropping down when the window gets really warm in the sun.

Peter , wood windows do not get weep holes , what kind of window did you build??

Thet do get a drip kerf on the underside of the sill , like this ,




 

     

[MikeT]

I need to take a vinyl window apart, I guess--just to see how they are made.  Many people say that changing out the glass etc is simple.  A big east wind last week at the coast blew over two windows (my bad for not securing them) that were staged ready for installation, and I lost three panes of glass. 

mt

[PEG688]

OOP'S 

All most all vinyl windows have a removable "storm strip" the exact shape differs brand to brand. The real thing holding the glass in is double backed / glued "glazier's/ glazing" tape.

You have to slide a puddy knife or 6 in 1 between the glass and the frame from the inside of the glass to cut it free. For big pieces , well really all pieces the suction cup dealies the glass guys use are very handy if not required . To hold / pull/ control the glass as it is cut free.   

Be VERY careful glass can shatter and or drop free and cut you six ways from Sunday , it can break and fall in large "shards" it can be deadly     


G/L , be safe , PEG

[glenn kangiser]

Sounds like that could be a real pain in the glass, PEG.

[PEG688]

Yes it could! 

[MikeT]

I will tinker with a good pair of gloves and a spare window that I don't care about.  It is a small one, so if I do break the glass, there will not be too much to clean up.

mt

[peternap]

Peter , wood windows do not get weep holes , what kind of window did you build??

They are Aluminum clad sashes and the frames are wood with heat Fitted Kydex, Peg. They very well may sweat badly.

There are 6 of these on each side of the loft. Since they are a pain to get to in the open section, I didn't want to take a chance of them sticking.

The downstairs windows will be OK. They are swing open windows ala Williamsburg style.

[mvk]

peter
Did you build everything from scratch? If so did you form the aluminum cladding? How thick, is this like the roll stock that you use to cover trim?

I goggled Kydex, How did you heat fit it, what heat source, what temp, use a brake, what shapes did/can you make. Is that UV resistant, just for interior?

I have four wood awning windows on a attached greenhouse almost 30 years old, glass is still sealed. These are in a bad situation and really take a beating. I have rebuilt all four to various degrees over the years. Kind of like grandfathers antique axe with 5 new handles and 4 new heads. High quality vinyl would be $1200 at least unless I got lucky,

Anybody ever use vinyl or plastic lumber? Think I could use that to build windows? How do you join it, can you machine it, anybody know a good source for weather stripping.

In general if you can get junk awning or casement hardware its not that hard to build windows.

Mike

[peternap]

peter
Did you build everything from scratch? If so did you form the aluminum cladding? How thick, is this like the roll stock that you use to cover trim?

I goggled Kydex, How did you heat fit it, what heat source, what temp, use a brake, what shapes did/can you make. Is that UV resistant, just for interior?


I bought the glass part that is aluminum (sash) from The Housing store. They were new in the box Pella units. I forget what I paid but it was cheap (Like 5.00 each)

I make knives as a hobby and use Kydex for sheaths. Years ago, I ran into a deal on several full rolls of white .025. It's not suitable for sheaths so it sat in the shop.
I built the frames from stock lumber and made a press for the Kydex using a thick Neopreme sheet. Heating it is easy. Roll it up, put it in the oven, throw it on the frame and press with the neopreme....trim the edges and tack it in place.
All done!

[mvk]

 Peter
I'm not quite sure what you wrapped with Kydex. Everthing, exterior wood trim, Aluminum sash as thermal break?

Thanks Mike

[peternap]

The entire frame. It just keeps everything dry and free. I don't want to be balancing on a beam 16' in the air trying to unstick a window.