My version of the 20 x 40...

[StinkerBell]

I have the farm house plans. Bought them about 2 or 3 years ago and now plan to use them. I want to post the rough idea I have for the floor plan. NetHog has concerns about walls being on the second floor when the same wall does not exist directly below. Give me a few minutes to post the pic, cause I need hogs help so I do not crash something....I have a long long history of crashing things...

[NetHog]

[glenn kangiser]

That big waterbed may be a little heavy, Stink, but the walls above should not be a problem since the walls below are non-bearing anyway.  The second floor joists should be rated to carry the load.

[John Raabe]

Look at sheet 10 of the 20' wide 2-story Cottage plan and you will see two different floor framing plans. One uses full span I-joists (engineered joists) and the other uses standard 2x8 joists and an interior beam. Either of these will work fine for your loads. Some builders are not as familiar with the longer spans of engineered joists but they are much easier to build with.

The main advantage of the engineered joists is that you have a lot more flexibility in the layout. If you do the standard joists and beam layout you will need to resize the beams for the longer 40' layout you are working with.

And, both of those floors were designed for the heavier 40 psf live load so even a water bed is not a problem.

[StinkerBell]

Ohhhh NetHog Mr John is saying I need to go buy a waterbed.......












Thanks for the info John and Glenn

[glenn kangiser]

Just messin' with ya Stink.  Actually after having a water bed for a long time we decided we like a good quality cushion top soft to medium conventional mattress.

The waterbed puts my back out sometimes.  

[MountainDon]

Not all waterbeds are created equal.

We have a Somma (for about a dozen+ years) that has 10 individual tubes filled with water. Over that is a foam pad. The foam insulates you from the water and no heater is required. We have the two sides filled to levels to suit us individually. Love it.

I've also slept on those "sleep-number" air beds. Like them too. That's what the cabin will have.

My 0.02

[glenn kangiser]

I've tried both types - last was the tube one, but decided I like a good regular one better.

[MountainDon]

Different strokes for different folks, as we used to say.   

I should mention I can sleep on darn near anything. When I go 4-wheeling I sleep in the back of the Cherokee on a thermarest pad. It's my beloved dear Princess K who can feel a pea under the mattress and has decreed our choice of beds. 

I hope she doesn't read this. 

[glenn kangiser]

  -- I think I have one of those too.

[MountainDon]

The Princess or the Thermarest?   

[glenn kangiser]

Princess K   -  (Sassy's just her nickname)

[Erin]

 

Back to the question at hand;)

One uses full span I-joists (engineered joists)

I would like to have exposed beams in at least one area of the house. 
Is there some way I could disguise I-joists?

[glenn kangiser]

You could box them in but it would probably cost more in materials and labor than just using good quality real wood -- possibly the 2x material doubled at 4' centers with a narrower one in the center (making it three wide} to make a wiring trough as John has described in other places.

[MountainDon]

I've seen a good number of false beams that are simply boxed things. They get the job done; most folks won't even notice.