I've got a couple footer questions

[dablack]

The only house I have built was a monoslab design.  I designed the slab (I read a bunch first) and then have a crew, dig it and pour it.  I live in a very hilly area and there is a spot near where I would like to build a garage later, where it would really help if I could put in a retaining wall.  I know how to design a retaining wall so I'm not really worried about that.  What I don't understand is how to make sure the footer pour is level! 

I can dig a trench and put in the rebar but when the truck comes to pour the concrete, since there are no boards, how do you know it is level?  (NOTE:  I know this might be a really dumb question but in an area where all we do is monoslabs and the top of the slab is above ground, I'm not used to the top of anything being below ground)

Notice, in this guy's build:  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=14426.0

He has the trench and the top of the footer is below ground level.  How do you know the footer is completely level?

thanks
Austin

[Redoverfarm]

The only house I have built was a monoslab design.  I designed the slab (I read a bunch first) and then have a crew, dig it and pour it.  I live in a very hilly area and there is a spot near where I would like to build a garage later, where it would really help if I could put in a retaining wall.  I know how to design a retaining wall so I'm not really worried about that.  What I don't understand is how to make sure the footer pour is level! 

I can dig a trench and put in the rebar but when the truck comes to pour the concrete, since there are no boards, how do you know it is level?  (NOTE:  I know this might be a really dumb question but in an area where all we do is monoslabs and the top of the slab is above ground, I'm not used to the top of anything being below ground)

Notice, in this guy's build:  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=14426.0

He has the trench and the top of the footer is below ground level.  How do you know the footer is completely level?

thanks
Austin

You would use "grade stakes" at the proper level at the top of the footer.  Most just use rebar driven down to where the top of the rebar is the top of the footer.  Normally every 4' or so and one each direction from the corners.  If you have a builders level ( transit type) just set it up on one corner and rotate it to all four sides driving the rebar down to where you get the same reading.  If you are planning a 10" footer then 16-18" pieces of rebar will be fine.  Don't just assume it will be the same amount sticking out of the ground because it will vary depending on how level the footer is dug. 

[ChugiakTinkerer]

You could drop a 2x4 down there on stakes and make sure it's level.  By a 2x4 I really mean a run of 2x4, put it on the edge of your footing with the top edge level and the height you want the pour to be.  Then you've got a visual guide without investing too much money or effort.  Another thing might be to just have rebar stakes spaced every 10' or so with a colorful plastic cap on the top to use as a marker for the top of the footing.  Your concrete truck pours until the concrete reaches the marker.  You ensure the markers are level using a line level or the water in a tube method.

Or do as Redover describes! 

[dablack]

  If you have a builders level ( transit type) 

Ok, I think that is what I'm missing.   I found some.... are they really $250?

thanks
Austin

[Redoverfarm]

Ok, I think that is what I'm missing.   I found some.... are they really $250?

thanks
Austin

Here is what I was talking about.  The price varies depending on brand and where you purchase it.  There may even be some big box stores that rent them out.  That may be the way to go.  Or you can even use a water level and get accurate grade.  I bought mine years ago for about $150.  It has paid for itself over the years. 

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW090PK-Builders-Package-Tripod/dp/B0001LQLEC

[dablack]

With as much concrete as I want to pour, I think I will just buy one.  I've got the retaining wall, the big porch and then the driveway.

thanks for the link. 
Austin

[Redoverfarm]

With as much concrete as I want to pour, I think I will just buy one.  I've got the retaining wall, the big porch and then the driveway.

thanks for the link. 
Austin

Check around the prices vary.  Also check Craigslist, ebay and the like.

[NathanS]

I wish I bought one. I used a water level, and while they are accurate, they are not fun to use outside. This past spring I spent more time trying to get mud off the hose than actually trying to find level.

[garyc]

What I used was 3/8'' fiberglass electric fence post drove in the ground at footing height about 6' apart and tied the re bar to it. That way you don't transfer rust from the one's that is drove in the ground.These post are cheep about $1.00 each 36'' long cut them 12'' long and drive 4'' in the ground.

       

[dablack]

Fiberglass fence post is a great idea!

thanks
Austin

[Don_P]

That is a good idea. I've usually used rebar or 12" spikes. The real prohibition is don't use wood, they warn us and I've seen it first hand, termites eating that and running up the inside cores of a block foundation, nice hidden hiway.

[garyc]

When using fiberglass rods there relay slippery! What i do is when tying the re bar to the fiberglass rod i put a layer of electric tape on the fiberglass rod where the re bar meets.  so when you'r poring the concrete it doesn't push the re bar down to the ground.