Porch Addition to Cabin in NE WA

[Woodswalker]

The cabin I built several years ago (thread on CP) was designed to have a full-length porch added later to the downhill, scenic side.  It included a "door-to-nowhere," with a 3ft drop.  Last summer I finally built the porch, which I jokingly told friends and relatives would be a nice improvement to my deer hunting stand.

Had been given a couple of rough-cut, full dimension 10' x 2" x 12" planks that I decided to use as a beam for a deck.  Bought enough 8' x 2" x 10" planks (primed white) at the local Habitat Restore in Olympia to use as joists for the deck.  Also picked up several round concrete pads there that made good footings for pyramid blocks to attach posts.



Measured out from cabin and then checked diagonals to establish locations of two end posts.  Then dug  18" deep holes for the footing pads, and installed them level.





Next installed pyramid blocks, screwed upright 4" x 6" treated posts onto brackets of the blocks, and braced them plumb.  Filled holes with crushed rock.







Ran a string between the posts to locate center post, and then installed it in same way.  Cut all posts to proper height, notched the tops, and bolted the two 2" x 12" planks on to form a beam.





Next I installed joist hanger brackets on cabin side of the beam, and onto the T-1-11 siding/sheathing of the cabin.  Then installed the joists.  I planned to use 8' cedar decking, so every 4' I installed two joists with about 1.5" between them.  This allows screws for the decking to be held back an inch from the ends to minimize cracking.





I hired a young guy with building experience to help me with the rest of the build.  We installed four posts on the deck, with metal brackets top and bottom.  Then we built a beam and installed it atop the posts.  One of the planks we used for the beam was twisted some, causing a post to pull up a little, but we tweeked it by hanging the riding mower from the beam...







Security officer for the build knows where the shade is...



Then we cut rafters long enough to accept 12' metal roofing, with the proper angle at the upper end to screw through the roofing and into each cabin rafter.  Height of the porch upper beam was set high enough to allow a good view of the scenery from inside.  Rafters were secured to the beam with brackets.  Purlins (1" x 3") were then screwed on top of the rafters every 2'.







Finally, we installed the metal roofing and a flashing strip across the upper end to direct runoff from the upper cabin roof onto the porch roof.




Installed some temp plastic fencing to the minimal railing to contain the dog on the deck.





Second morning of the season, I shot a nice 4 x 4 whitetail from the porch.

[duncanshannon]

wow! nice work and fantastic views!

[Don_P]

Before building your deck there is a very good publication on deck construction available for free here;
http://awc.org/codes/dcaindex.html

[MountainDon]

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This is pretty much a fait accompli, but I thought it best to raise the points as this will be viewed by many who have yet not designed or built their own deck/porch. I thank Don_P for the link as he is thinking along the same educational lines of thought.
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[Woodswalker]

The "single thickness" beam is rough-sawn fir, so a full 2" x 12" - plenty strong for this application.  I see my original post had it as 4" wide, which I've corrected.  No ledger is attached to the T1-11, hangers were used at both ends of the joists, and were nailed through the T1-11 into the rimjoist attached to the ends of the cabin floor joists.  The deck is only 8' wide, and seems very strong.  Keep in mind this is a 3-season cabin in the mtns, with no electric or plumbing.  It will not be used year-round, and there won't be any dancing keg parties on the porch.

Thanks DonP for the link, I'll have a look.

[John Raabe]

Nice project Woodswalker. And thanks for posting that. You should have many fine years on that porch with its million dollar view.

I want our members to feel free to post their projects here and not immediately have to justify and explain every choice they made. We make it clear in our registration that not everything shown in the forum postings will be appropriate construction for someone else or even that it necessarily meets codes where it is built. Many times the builder has already taken care of the assumed error. Other times there are photos posted during the build where things will be braced or stiffened later.

We are not here to police the owner-builder or to joust with each other as amateur building inspectors. I too have done this and it is hard to not point something out if you think something is amiss. But many times the issue was resolved later or I misinterpreted a photo and was glad I kept my mouth shut.

I say all this because there have been a few folks who have asked that their thread be deleted because they where overwhelmed with the questions and criticisms.

As a general rule it is always best to be helpful after that help is asked for.

[MountainDon]

Deck failures are commonplace. There is a website devoted to them. Most residential deck failures occur when the deck connection to the house fails. Doesn't matter if the deck is 1 foot off the ground or 2 stories high. That connection fails and everything on the deck is tipped and slides into the space between the house wall and the deck materials. It's estimated that of the 40 million decks in the United States, only half are built to code. While many decks are improperly built and remain intact for a long time, what leads to failure or collapse is typically a change in use. That can happen when there is a change in ownership, either by direct sale or as the cabin moves from an older to a younger generation.

[Woodswalker]

Thanks John and Don for the additional comments.  I probably should have clearly stated in the original post that the porch was not designed to meet any building code, and was not covered by a seperate permit or inspection.  The cabin was built with a permit, and I recall mentioning to the inspector when he was out that I intended to add a deck/porch in the future.  He did not indicate a seperate permit was needed to do that.

The cabin has already been through thunderstorm winds of over 100mph that snapped or uprooted thousands of trees in the area.  The Coleville Indian Reservation and National Forest were greatly damaged, and there was a death.  A federal disaster declaration helped with the cost of debris removal.

As for the porch, I intend to add bracing to the upper part of the three posts that connect to the footings, and replace the temp netting along the railing with plastic-covered wire fencing material.  The porch is solid, built at low cost, and suits my needs.  Future owners or users can make any improvements they feel are needed to suit their needs.

[bayview]

We are not here to police the owner-builder or to joust with each other as amateur building inspectors. I too have done this and it is hard to not point something out if you think something is amiss. But many times the issue was resolved later or I misinterpreted a photo and was glad I kept my mouth shut.

While I don't agree with floor plans, some constuction methods, etc . . .   I think safety should still be mentioned.

/.

[Don_P]

I can see both sides of it and I often see things I like in work that I might complete differently. I think John proposed a reasonable solution to keep the nit picking in check while allowing other discussions to go into wherever our hearts lead us.

One type of post can be considered a "show off" type post where someone wants to show what they've done. They don't ask for advice and no unsolicited advice should be given. Perfectly acceptable, I've admired friends work while biting my tongue. I wouldn't neccessarily go there for structural ideas but non structural ideas would be fine from posts like that.

The same post is made and the person says, "comments welcome". Free discussion. For many of us anything that crosses our path tends to be fodder for critique. It's a glass half full or half empty, some see it as striving for excellence, others killing the muse. All depending on the point of reference, both are true.

If you don't like something you saw in a non commenting post don't just go and link to it in another thread and pose a question. Find a tactful way of broaching the subject.

I was visiting a friend and ended up helping quickly pull stuff out of a barn and told him in no uncertain terms to keep the boys out, it collapsed very soon after. He couldn't see it, it was a deadfall trap. A comment might sting the pride, but sometimes a critical eye is not being unkind. We're curtailing open discussion but as long as we know going in that seems fair.

that's mostly a memo to myself 

[John Raabe]

Well said Don_P!

When things look dangerous, not mentioning a serious problem would be irresponsible.

Member postings that mention "comments welcome" is a good way to invite discussion and alternatives. Many folks want that - but not all.

[Don_P]

Hang on John, I mention many things that I see as serious problems, this offended. We are censoring a portion of the forum but my silence is in no way assent for what goes on in those threads. You've twice asked for censorship and I understand where you're coming from, but it comes at a price. If you don't ask for advice it doesn't matter if you are out on a limb with a chainsaw, there are no shades of gray. Don't think someone will chime in if its "really" a problem. If you wish for others to withhold critical comments, they will. It is each individuals choice, that's fair.

[John Raabe]

Did something I said offend? If so it was not intended. I was just agreeing with your previous post.

I'm not asking for censorship, I'm suggesting tact. Your earlier post with a link to deck details was great. Tactful and helpful. This is true of most of your posts and you have helped countless builders hone their craft here. I hope you continue to do this.

And a strong alert is very appropriate when danger is afoot. If you see the barn is about to fall down, please do LET US KNOW.

[Don_P]

No, not at all, I'm just speaking plainly. You can't have it both ways, think about what you are asking in that. A person does not invite discussion and thinks to themselves, "well, nobody objected strenuously, it must be good enough." I'll not agree that I've given an endorsement by silence, that doesn't work. But it's ok, each op has the option to open or close discussion.

[John Raabe]

No one on this forum is giving an endorsement to something by NOT voicing an opinion. No one is responsible for the postings they don't read or don't reply to.

If I see a picture of a starving baby in the Congo and I do not respond, am I responsible if that child should die (even if I think my $25 donation might have made the difference between life and death)? These are tough questions, especially for people who want to help and reach out to others.

Fortunately, an owner-builder forum is not that serious. It is mostly populated by good hard-working people who want to build something. They aren't professional builders but want to do something satisfying and serviceable. They view this as a positive experience and a way to share and work with family and friends. That we have a few experienced builders that can offer suggestions occasionally is a great help. But there is no expectation of a response or act of endorsement of anyone who posts here.

[Don_P]

If I see a picture of a starving baby in the Congo and I do not respond, am I responsible if that child should die (even if I think my $25 donation might have made the difference between life and death)? These are tough questions, especially for people who want to help and reach out to others.

When things look dangerous, not mentioning a serious problem would be irresponsible.

Tough questions indeed.