Framing plans

[diyfrank]

I've drawn up what I intend to do on my wall framing. If you notice anything wrong or incomplete please bring it to my attention.

My plans are to lay it out, cut and package my wall sections with everything marked and numbered. I would like to bang it together in one weekend in may. I'm not too concerned will the interior just yet but I'm debating on letting in ledgers or using jack studs for the loft. I'm not sure how the inspector will feel about notching deeper than the allowed. I'm leaning toward jack studs being the safer approach. I have a couple short interior walls as well.

All my wood has been stored under cover for 1-2 years so the moister content should be the same though out and shouldn't change  much if at all between  cutting and assembling.

west

east

north

south

[PEG688]

 On the East wall that RO,  IF you're using a standard 3-0 x 6-8 door, should be 38" x 82 1/2" for a RO.

On the North wall that 50 x 40 window might want to be a bit higher on the wall , with it 2-0 off the floor and a 4-0 window thats only 6-0 to the window head which is sort of low.  You might raise it up unless it's that low for some specific reason.


 Are you going to balloon frame the gable end walls?

And you mention a let in ledger for your loft, with 8-0 top plate heights you're going to have some low ceilings on the main floor? Or I'm I missing some thing? I haven't seen,  or if there is one,  followed any other threads you may have here.  

[MountainDon]

On the windows: I've always placed window with the tops at the same height. To me that seems to look better even if the bottom edges do not line up.

And you've confused me with the mention of a ledger and showing 8 foot wall heights.    IRC does allow down to 7 feet ceiling heights though.  Maybe that;s why that window is shown low? 

[diyfrank]

I measured the door frame I have then added an 1" to the top and width. I can re measure. Is an 1" too much?

I can move the 5040 window up a little. I'll play with the #s. The low window, I was hoping would light up inside under the low ceiling and yes 8' walls with a 10'x16' loft. 6" loft joist.
yes Balloon framed end walls.

On the low ceiling, I'm 5'9. 7' sounds like enough and would give a little room in the loft to move around which won't be much. The loft will be storage for hunting gear books etc.
below the loft will be a bed and cabinets. the opened side of the cabin will be the actual living space.

[poppy]

You mentioned an inspector, yet I don't see any windows in the sleeping are? 

Someone will probably come along and suggest 2 outside doors, and since they haven't yet, I'll do it.  I suggest 2 outside doors. 

I assume windows are located for views rather than solar considerations.

I'm 5' 10", but wouldn't want 7' ceilings, but that's me.

[MountainDon]

Everybody's different; gotta remember that. With only the area under the loft being 7 foot and I am assiuming the balance of the cabin with a cathedral like ceiling that would likely work okay.

We actually considered a lower ceiling but scrapped the idea when I pointed out the ceiling fan clearance problem. That and after years of having a low ceiling in the RV i wanted 8 feet.

[diyfrank]

You mentioned an inspector, yet I don't see any windows in the sleeping are? 

Someone will probably come along and suggest 2 outside doors, and since they haven't yet, I'll do it.  I suggest 2 outside doors. 

I assume windows are located for views rather than solar considerations.

I'm 5' 10", but wouldn't want 7' ceilings, but that's me.

Poppy
The east wall has the required 4036 window in the loft to satisfy the inspector even though It won't be used as a sleeping area, he wanted it. The main floor is an open room so the windows  count as a second exit. Windows were placed for light and ventilation primarily and view to a certain extent. I plan to expand at a later date or build a bigger place in a different spot.
But its those type of comments I'm looking for. Any possible error or over looked item.

Potential structural boo boos.

[diyfrank]

I have moved the loft up/down in previous drawings and thought I would gain the most usable space at that height. Unless I hang the joist off the top plates with hangers, It leaves on top or just under the plates. under I gain the most and sacrifice the least.

Ive made notes so far.
1  Re-evaluate loft height vs storage space.
As it will be close to the top of the door when opened and I may forever have to listen to future complaints.

2 reaffirm RO sizes for windows and doors.

[rocking23nf]

I would take into consideration resale value as well. My cabin is not only for recreation, its an investment. I plan on selling it when im older. People dont like low ceilings, and could turn away alot of potential buyers.

And since your building from scratch, whats a few extra hunder dollers now, compared to 1000s in the future if you ever sell.

[RainDog]

I would take into consideration resale value as well. My cabin is not only for recreation, its an investment. I plan on selling it when im older. People dont like low ceilings, and could turn away alot of potential buyers.

And since your building from scratch, whats a few extra hunder dollers now, compared to 1000s in the future if you ever sell.

Here, here! That little bit of ceiling height could change the whole image people take away from the place.

[MikeT]

Let me put in a plug for 12' walls as it relates to resale value.  I think it would add to the feeling under the loft, but add to the square footage of the loft as well.  I have 12' walls and the loft feels like a real room.  One additional benefit is the option to run the loft to a complete second story without sacrificing too much the feel of the living room. 

In my project, I tried to always keep an eye on an exit strategy, even if I was not planning on selling it.

Just my $.02.

mt

[rwanders]

Another vote for  12' walls and 12/12 pitch roof----gives a lot more usable loft space and looks a lot better for small cost increases. Also 7' ceiling height is a mistake you will come to regret.

[John_M]

I have used 12 foot walls as well!!  The bottoms of my 4 x 12 beams are at 8 feet so the T & G ceiling boards are actually 9 feet.  Love the extra room!

[Woodswalker]

Let me know if you'd like some help with that framing blitz in May.
I'll be doing interior work at my cabin (painting, flooring), but would be glad to
break away from that for some framing fun outside.

You're getting some good feedback on your plans, so I'm sure you'll have decisions made and plans final before the snows melt over there.  By the way, the inspector dropped by for a final inspection last fall when I was visiting some folks up the hill.  I had scheduled it for the previous day, but he had been out, sick.  He just left a business card and a note under a rock on the floor that said everything looked good, and he was closing the file.  Now that's the kind of final inspection I like!  I don't think you'll have any problems working with him on your place.

Steve

[diyfrank]

I'm having connection issues. Iv'e had trouble trying to post since yesterday.

I appreciate the offer Steve. I may needs some help standing walls if My kids can't make the trip. Yes , the inspector said all he wants to see is beam connections and also insulation if I want him to sign off on it.

[diyfrank]

The caterer has already been paid.

  I've  drawn up and submitted plans last spring and bought the permit. I'm using 8' foot walls and even though I can make small adjustments here and there, I need to stay with the approved plans or re-submit. Storage is the key. I'm not building a cabin to be like a home but more of a storage unit for hunting gear that will have a cozy place to sleep.
My plan it to build a small hunting cabin which I can add on another 16'x20' section to it at a right angle and add a porch on at a later date.
I may decide to build a house for living in or one with power water and septic someday. It will be bigger and in a different location. Theres 40 acres of varied terrain and much better sites for view.  Resale is always a factor to consider but, I will never sell. The lucky one to inherit can do with it what they feels best.

Back to the original post. I'm planning to precut everything and assemble it in one weekend. Tips? warnings? Are the headers size right? Right number of jack studs and arranged correctly?
I think I will set the window headers high to allow more on site adjustment.

I do appreciate everyones input.  It fuels the thoughts gets the wheels spinning.

[PEG688]

 I don't see a double top plate, you show a single plate at the top. You are doing a dbl. top plate right?

 Headers for window should be 3" over a 5'0" header would be 63", a 3-0 = 39" net header length.
And so on.

And yes 1" over is a bit much for width, 3/4" over is what I shoot for , less shimming = easier hanging of the unit.

On height the add space is good as I will "raise" some doors up on either 1/2" or 5/8" material depending on the floor covering in front of the door. Some times it's tile on Hardibacker , some time hardwood , and at framing you seldom know for sure and it seems to always change. I also think about a throw rug added to what ever the flooring is , so having the space over the top of  a door is a good thing generally.

Your place being a hunting cabin may just get a old hunk of carpet to wipe boots off on , but still I'd add at least 1/2" strip of CDX under the door sill , full width and about 6 wide net , before you set the door.

G/L , pre-cutting can save time IF all goes according to play, a few miscuts , or a whole bunch of miscuts can be costly!

PEG      

[diyfrank]

Peg,
I have the header set as you describe. 1 jack stud under each end on all but the 5' wide and the one directly under the ridge beam. I have 2 under each side. If I understand correctly, I'll be good there.

I have a double wall plat on the 8' walls but not on the balloon end walls.
I was unsure if it was required there. I can make that change.

I should add there will be 2 2x12's for a ridge beam, 2x10 rafters and a post mid span that will support the beam for the ridge as well as the loft. A small 5x7 lam beam laid horizontal mid span  of the loft joist as seen in the east wall set at 6'6" or 6' 7'' depending on the actual measurement I get when laying it out.

[PEG688]

Ah, I missed that , the line on the gable ends is really a row of blocking , my bad on that one


  You don't HAVE to use dbl. trimmer until you have a 8' or wider RO. But nothing says you can't dbl. them when your under 8' RO. If you have dbl trimmers you do need to add an additional 3" to your headers, as you'll have 6" of trimmer to account for. 

So a 5-0 RO would take a 66" trimmer with double trimmers / 2 on each side. I'd also suggest adding 1/8" to that number so 66 1/8" things tend to "grow" as you stack things together.

G/L PEG 

[diyfrank]

I'd also suggest adding 1/8" to that number so 66 1/8" things tend to "grow" as you stack things together.

G/L PEG 

Better to be long than short.  Good tip.