Building with T1-11?

[MushCreek]

I've used T1-11 plywood on various small sheds over the years, and it seemed to work OK, but I'm thinking of using it when I build my barn. The barn will be 28 X 48, and 12' at the eaves, which brings up some questions. My first thought is to overlap the upper siding over the lower, but then how do I deal with the corner trim? I was going to use 1X's for corners. I guess I could put the 1X over the lower course, and then butt and caulk the upper course? I don't want a horizontal butt joint in the siding, but I could cut a bevel, which should keep rain out. I plan to use the thick T1-11 over 2X6 studs- is this strong enough for a barn? In other words, it will function as the sheathing and the siding. Finally- any ideas on making the stuff last? I was thinking about soaking the bottom of each sheet in a pan of wood preservative, since it always seems to rot out at the bottom. I'm going to go up 2' or so with concrete to keep my wood away from the termites. Of course, I could go up 4' with the concrete, which would eliminate a horizontal seam in the siding except for the gable ends, which would have one anyway. Any thoughts?

[Don_P]

A "Z" flashing is typically used at the top of sheets and they are kept in plane that way. A vertical leg extends up behind the upper sheet. it bends out over the top of the lower sheet and then turns down over the face of it, its a stock item.

Yes it would be fine for a barn... or a house. if and when it is getting shabby call it sheathing and side over it 

[bayview]

   I personally wouldn't use T1-11.

   T1-11 comes in plywood or OSB. . . The plywood is a little better.  It has some strength and can be stained.   I wouldn't use the OSB T1-11.  It is made of wood flakes, stands, etc.  It will come completely apart if it gets wet.  You cannot stain it.  Prime and paint only.

   I have a neighbor with OSB T1-11 . . . It is installed about 6 inches above grade.  Moisture has gotten in on the bottom.  The bottom has expanded and completely come apart.

Here is a site that helps explain . . . http://www.servicemagic.com/article.show.T1-11-Siding.13965.html


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[davidj]

I paint on an epoxy-based wood preserver on the bottom edges of my T1-11 and sheathing.  It's basically fiberglass resin, and turns the wood into something more like plastic.  It's too expensive for large applications, but given all of the wooden siding appears to rot from the bottom up I'm guessing this will help keep things solid.  I'll let you know in 20 years how it well it did the job....

[MushCreek]

The house next door to us is 30 years old, and the T1-11 on the gable ends is original. If my barn lasts 30 years, I'll be dead or too feeble to care. I think taking care of it, and keeping it away from the ground will help. If I have the money, I might eventually side the barn with Hardi-plank, since that's what the house will be, but I need to get it up and 'finished' as cheap as possible. I wouldn't use the OSB version.

Thanks for the tip on the Z flashing- I hadn't thought of that.

[CREATIVE1]

Have you checked out Hardi panels? They used to cost about the same as T-1-11.

[MushCreek]

I have looked at the Hardi panels- I thought about putting 1X2's over them for a board and batten look. Are they structural, though? I figured the T1-11 with construction adhesive would make a pretty strong wall without any additional bracing. I don't know if the Hardi panels are rated for that.

[Don_P]

Heres the ESR, looks like it could work;
http://www.icc-es.org/reports/pdf_files/NES/NER405.pdf

[MushCreek]

That's a great link- thanks Don! It certainly looks like it would work well, and be bug and fire proof to boot. I'm sure those panels are heavy. but I was planning to build the walls on the slab, and use machinery to tilt them up. I see it comes in 10', which would be ideal. I plan to have about 2' of concrete walls above the slab. That, with 10' walls, would give me the 12' eave I want without having any horizontal seams except for the gable ends. I would do a board-and-batten look, so the vertical seams would be covered by battens.

Where our property is, there are no permits or inspections for a building deemed 'agricultural use', so I can do what I want anyhow, but I'd like to know it will be strong. I'll use construction adhesive (us old boat builders glue everything), and if I follow the fastening schedule, I should well exceed local wind rating, which is 90 MPH.

[CREATIVE1]

The hardi panels come in a version that looks like T1-11. Maybe you don't need battens.

[MushCreek]

I was just looking st those today at Lowe's. The grooves are very shallow, though. I like the look of the deeper grooves on the thick ($$$) T1-11. I wonder if the Hardi panel is available in a smooth finish? All they had was stucco, which isn't the look I'm going for. Then I need to find Hardi for the battens. The regular trim boards are too wide, and I bet that stuff is a bear to rip.

[rick91351]

Actually not bad but look at

http://www.jameshardie.com/homeowner/bestPractices.shtml

rlr

[Don_P]

I've used the smooth panels in 4x8 sheets.  You don't want to rip it if you can help it, it isn't much fun to work with.

[MountainDon]

Ripping Hardie is not at all fun as Don_P stated. Been there, done that and never want to do it again.

They make Hardie battens but not all places stock them. They are 3/4" thick, 2.50" wide and come in 12 ft lengths. Check into a special order. There may be a minimum quantity.

James Hardie website

[MushCreek]

I'd need quite a few of them for a barn- that's why I don't want to rip them. I'll check into that.