Alabama 24x32 underway

[alcowboy]

Guys, without your help here I would not be to the point I am now. I really enjoy this forum and the helpful advice you have given me. Granted, I know nothing about construction work and nowhere near the level of knowledge of you guys but I am going to give it my all.

Over the past few weeks I have been tweaking and completing the floorplan I have using Better Homes and Gardens' Home Designer Suite 8.  Also, I have been talking to some of the people at Lowe's and today ran into a very nice fellow who explained the use of piers, beams, floor joists and how it all comes together for my subfloor. Anyway, he explained in great detail what you guys have been trying to tell me about 6x6 treated versus the built-up beam http://www.countryplans.com/builtupbeam.html.  I now understand better how all of it works. I am going to go with 8x8x8 half-block for my piers and put on top of those the built-up beam and hang my floor joists between those adding rim joists to the outside and viola subfloor ready for 3/4" T&G plywood.

Anyway, why I am posting this is because of my new-found excitement! I broke ground today with four of my corner footings. YES! I started digging my footings today! I am so excited to get started and hope to soon have my walls going up.  I will start using this topic to keep you up to date for my home. I plan on taking my first pictures once I get the subfloor framed in.  My goal is to hopefully incorporate solar and wind to provide my electricity. I have no choice but to have someone dig well for me and unfortunately have to put in septic system too.  I wish there was an alternative to the septic.  I am not sure of the composting toilets. Sounds like lots of work and possible smell.  If there were a way to do a septic system on my own versus hiring it out I would consider that.

[glenn kangiser]

Let the fun begin.

[alcowboy]

Whew! and WOOHOO! at the same time! Got my pier footings dug this weekend (20 of them there suckers). Next step is to get the concrete and block, pour the footings and stack the block. Hopefully will be able to do that next weekend.  **HOW LONG SHOULD I WAIT BEFORE ATTACHING THE BEAMS?** Also, can you build the beam to the length you wish; in my case to 24 foot.

I have a couple of questions though. Along one of the 24' sides (front) it will be split into 2-12' sections with an 8' wall in between creating a porch of 8x12 demension and a dining area, also 8x12. What I am concerned with is should I place offset footings on either end of this wall?  My footings are at zero, 8, 16 and 24 foot segments which prevents a pier under this wall.  I am thinking for support purposes I should put piers here but unsure.  I do know that on the subfloor I will be doubling the 2x12 under this.

[glenn kangiser]

General rule on concrete is 7 days but for light work -no heavy stress, some start in a couple days.

The beam can be built long with the splices occurring over a post. 

As PEG says - when in doubt build it stout with something you know about, so if you think you should it may be necessary.  A non-nearing wall would likely not require support though.

I forget which plan you are building and how you are getting to 24'wide.

[alcowboy]

Sorry about that. The plan I have is one I purchased from elsewhere and have managed to recreate it in BHG in order to get my takeoff. http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=6189.0  The plan is located in this thread.

I also realized and located the load bearing walls AFTER I dug my foundation holes. Going to have to fill in several and redig. There is a load bearing wall in the 24x24 portion of the house, exactly 12 foot center from the front and back of the home. The other is along the bump out which makes the dining area. Oh well, better to have caught it now than later. Now that I have actually started on the LIVE portion of the project it is much easier to see these things and catch them than it is just staring at the plans when you are not in the construction business. However, I keep telling myself - your ancestors had to learn how to do this themselves, so can you!  AND I WILL!  I just hope that you guys don't mind my mistakes and don't mind my asking questions as I go along. This is the only way I will learn.

Again, you guys are the bomb! Jens I love what you are doing on your home. I love art deco.

[glenn kangiser]

Looks like John answered your beam info there-

http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=6189.msg80916#msg80916

[Dog]

Congratulations alcowboy on the start of building your home! That's so exciting!

I love watching the progress people make and the great advice given on this forum. These guys are the bomb and I totally agree about Jens art deco.

[alcowboy]

Looks like John answered your beam info there-

http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=6189.msg80916#msg80916

Yeah, that is what I was referring too.  Also, you have to know ME.  I have to wrap my mind around it completely before understanding the full meaning and why do you do it this way and not that way.  Thanks glenn and John for explaining it to me. I am so excited about doing this.

Oh, I do have a new question or two. 1) At some points the beams are within 2-3" of grade.  I want to put plastic on the underside of the subfloor and drop bats of insulation in between the floor joists. Which would be the best way to handle that? Tack the plastic to the beams before attaching them to the piers?  2) Can you use 3/4" OSB T&G instead of 3/4" Plywood T&G for the subfloor and cover it with plastic to keep the moisture out then cut it away once I have the house dried in?

[MountainDon]

If the beams are 2 - 3" from grade that's too close unless they are PT.



If I understand the 2 questions, putting insulation in the floor before being dried in is not generally a good idea. Plastic over subflooring is not dependable enough to keep the water from leaking through. Trust me on that, been there, done that. I did not have the insulation in the floor, all I was worried about was getting the floor OSB wet. If you are worried about the subflooring getting wet and damaged then I'd suggest you track down some Advantech OSB. It's just about as waterproof as they come. But you could still end up with wet insulation if you put it in first.



http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=2335.msg61575#msg61575

[alcowboy]

If the beams are 2 - 3" from grade that's too close unless they are PT.

I intended on the beams being PT anyway so from your response I should be ok.  I also will be treating the soil in and around the home for termites too.

If I understand the 2 questions, putting insulation in the floor before being dried in is not generally a good idea. Plastic over subflooring is not dependable enough to keep the water from leaking through. Trust me on that, been there, done that. I did not have the insulation in the floor, all I was worried about was getting the floor OSB wet. If you are worried about the subflooring getting wet and damaged then I'd suggest you track down some Advantech OSB. It's just about as waterproof as they come. But you could still end up with wet insulation if you put it in first.

I will need to research Advantech and find out if I can get it in my area (East Alabama, near Auburn University).  Also, the only other alternative I would have would be to either save up enough money until I know I have the fund to purchase enough lumber to dry in or do blown insulation after I dry it in if I do the plastic on the underside of the subfloor which I think would be a wreck in itself if the plastic were to get ripped later on.

ADDENDUM
Already checked on Advantech including going to Huber's web site to locate a local retailer - NONE. So, what if I were to use an oilbase paint on the OSB decking or would that not just bring me back to the cost of plywood?

[Jens]

In most areas, you need at least 18" from dirt to wood to be code compliant.  I know you said there aren't really any codes where you are, but that is definitely one of the codes I see having good reason to follow.  If you haven't already built up you beams yet, it might be something to think about.  Just an extra 10", really.  Plus, it makes it a lot easier to crawl under there when you need to...and you will need to  

Thanks for the props guys, but it really isn't me, I just hold the tools.  I am just as stoked and surprised at seeing how my stuff turns out as you guys sound, and just as stoked for everybody on here as well when they conquer the unknown! 
 
Glad to here about ground breaking...exciting!

[MountainDon]

The code in use here states 12" from ground to the lowest edge of a beam, 18" from ground to the lowest edge of a floor joist. Less than that will pass if it's PT. But working under less than that is uncomfortable at best.


As for the subfloor, my personal view is that if I could not find Advantech I would not start until I had the wherewithal to complete the drying in in one season. Plywood is supposed to withstand water better than standard OSB. But I don't think I would want to trust the money I'd have spent on it, to a "supposed to". In theory exterior grade paint should help, but that's assuming there's no nicks, thin spots in the paint film, etc and that water doesn't get into the seams. That's where the water damage would begin. Call me old fashioned, or an old fogey, but I'm not convinced that any of the glues used in standard CDX plywood are as good as the ones used before the EPA started making rules.


Three quarter inch Advantech comes in a stack of around 40-45 sheets. I did find a lumber yard here that would have ordered the stack for me, but they didn't want to carry any stock. And I didn't have the need for that much.

[alcowboy]

Agreed. I think I am going to setup my piers then work on getting at least enough money up to dry in.  Then the rest will come as I can get to it.

[Jens]

yeah, I meant 18" to the joists, as the beams will be pt