20X40 1.5 STORY IN SOUTHERN UTAH

[Don_P]

LOL, I resemble those moves 
Always glad to see the younger crowd learning skills.
Some cheap mismixed oil based paint or porch/garage floor paint will help keep the water damage down on the ply.
I think it was just south of San Jose there is a neat mission, domes, a cool spiral staircase, buttressed arched grainery.
Whoop, memory jog, it was mission San Jose but south of San Antonio... maybe on your way home 

[azgreg]

No one would want to that, trust me.

It's kinda a tradition here.

[schiada]

Very nice !

[ffpara]

All 4 walls being raised. We did it in 20'Wx12'T sections with sheeting on. 3 of us were able to lift them but they were rather heavy. With the sheeting hanging down the 14" to cover the subfloor really helped in stopping the walls from going all the way over, once we got them to the top it would have been a lot of work to push them over. We did have wall jacks just in case we weren't able to lift them but never had to use them. Last 2 pics are videos but not sure if they will work.
20170820_200555 by sbahde, on Flickr
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VID_48821103_051755_138 by sbahde, on Flickr
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[Adam Roby]

 

That looks really heavy...   looks good.

[pmichelsen]

Last 2 pics are videos but not sure if they will work.

Doesn't let you embed them, but clicking on them works fine.

Well done

[ffpara]

Interior beams came next. Stupid me thought 4 people could move a 6"x12"x20' beam but we couldn't even pick them up. We had to cut a hole in the cabin and slide them in, then use pieces of pvc pipe and a cinch strap to move them around. Luckily 2 of my friends/family know ropes and mechanical advantages well and using a quad on the outside as anchors and ropes up over the wall and a mechanical advantage off the top we were able to get a 2:1(all the pulleys we had) and hoist up one end of the beam at a time. Note: if you try this make sure you secure the first end up really well before hoisting the other end. The beams sat on a 6x6 or over a header. We had to lay out the beams so at least one end would sit in an open area between studs and on a 6x6 post. The other end could sit on a header. But you cant get a beam into place if it has to have both ends sit on a header because its to long and cant be swung high enough to clear the studs or header. So take that into consideration when laying out your beams and put your header in after the beam. Beams didn't lay out perfectly, suppose to be 48" OC but had to goto 53" OC on one beam because of this. Was worried about feeling it in the floor but after we put in the 2x6 TG we didn't notice it. The 7 beams took us just short of a day and a half. Its not pictured but installed post under each beam where it sat on the stairs and continued that with another post in the basement stairs wall directly in line. Each beam is bolted to the stud. Had to use lags on some because of spacing.

20170823_074258 by sbahde, on Flickr
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IMG_70781 by sbahde, on Flickr
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Video

[ffpara]

Finished the stairway walls for the first to second floor prior to beams. We then finished the stairs to the basement. Used 3 stringers 2x12 and 3/4 Advantech plywood.
IMG_70931 by sbahde, on Flickr
IMG_70951 by sbahde, on Flickr
IMG_20170828_154513_275 by sbahde, on Flickr
IMG_20170828_154513_277 by sbahde, on Flickr

[ffpara]

One of the last things we got done was the second floor. We used 2x6 T&G. Started off using a deck vise to straighten out the boards and hammer them in. We then switched to ratchet straps and that worked perfectly. Came up 6 boards short of finishing the job. Used 2.5" finish nails into the tongues and faced nailed the joints since it will be covered by interior walls. One mistake I made was not leaving out the bottom 2x6 that the patio door sits on so I could overlap the floor onto it so it would tie the wall in better and look clean. So instead we made a ledger board that fit between the first beam and nailed it to the exterior wall then nailed the floor into it. That wall wont budge now.
IMG_20170828_154513_285 by sbahde, on Flickr
IMG_20170828_154513_296 by sbahde, on Flickr20170823_193538 by sbahde, on Flickr
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The framing at the end of the wall is my scaffolding for the length of the end wall and going down the middle to access the ridge board. Will be sheeted with 5/8 plywood.

[ffpara]

Next week will be to complete all the exterior posts (6x6) and beams. 2 of them beams are the 6x12x20. The rest are 6x8 for the covered deck. Then end gable walls, ridge board, and if I get lucky rafters and sheeting but not counting on that but it would be nice.

[dablack]

The beams look great.  Nice job with the pulleys.  I have 8x10x 13' beams on my front porch and I rented a material lift to set them in place.  It is a one man show.  I have forks on the front of my tractor but they just couldn't reach high enough to set the beams.  Material lift was the only way to go. 

Austin

[w1ck3tt]

Very nice!  Can't wait to see more pics of it progressing!

[ffpara]

Last week was very productive. Was up for 8 days (couldn't last much longer than that). Got all the exterior post and beams in with the help of a fork lift. Got the ridge board in 2-26' LVL 1.75"x12". Also got all the rafters in for the house and deck. The house was a 12/12 pitch with 2x10 rafters. The deck ended up being a little less than a 7/12 pitch with 2x8 rafters both were 16" OC. We got all the H3 hurricane ties in and blocking. Got one gable wall framed in that leads to the raised deck and the deck joist in 2x10's. Last thing was I got about 1/3 of the ceiling joist in. Was hoping to get the roof sheeted but didn't happen this trip so heading up Wednesday to get it sheeted and taped off so ill be weathered in. Of course all the fork lifts are not available for the next 2 weeks so ill have to build a lift for the sheets.

[ffpara]

Pics of the exterior post and beams.
2017-09-16_02-01-38 by sbahde, on Flickr
2017-09-16_02-00-28 by sbahde, on Flickr
2017-09-16_02-00-13 by sbahde, on Flickr
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6x12x20 PT beam. Hard to put in by yourself.
2017-09-16_01-59-41 by sbahde, on Flickr
2017-09-16_01-59-14 by sbahde, on Flickr
6x8 beams for the sides.
2017-09-16_01-58-40 by sbahde, on Flickr
2017-09-16_01-58-52 by sbahde, on Flickr
6x10 beam returning to house for the rafters to sit on
2017-09-16_01-57-52 by sbahde, on Flickr
another 6x12x20 beam.

[ffpara]

Getting the ridge board in place and starting the rafters.
2017-09-16_01-57-30 by sbahde, on Flickr
Great friends and family. Couldn't have done it without them. I don't know how people build these by themselves.
2017-09-16_01-57-05 by sbahde, on Flickr
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He had the hardest job. Cutting each rafter and trying to keep up with us. Was easier to lay each one out. We used a template for the deck rafters.
2017-09-16_01-55-25 by sbahde, on Flickr
Started using harness and ropes from this point forward.
2017-09-16_01-55-12 by sbahde, on Flickr
More help
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Beautiful sunset after working for 12 hrs.
2017-09-16_01-53-51 by sbahde, on Flickr
Deck rafters took awhile to cut since we had a birds mouth cut on the top and bottom of the rafter.
2017-09-16_01-53-15 by sbahde, on Flickr
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Looks big with the rafters in place finally.
2017-09-16_01-51-05 by sbahde, on Flickr
Just did a 2x4 barge rafter and the plan is to attach a 1x8 trex fascia onto it so it will match the deck and will never need to be painted. Anyone else ever do this? Saw it in some pics and it looks good but never have done it myself.

[ffpara]

2017-09-16_01-50-50 by sbahde, on Flickr
Finished the upstairs floor. I was 6 boards short last time.
2017-09-16_01-50-07 by sbahde, on Flickr
Framed in the gable wall. Took a lot longer than I thought it would. Using a plumb bob was a life saver.
2017-09-16_01-49-39 by sbahde, on Flickr
was not fun putting in the blocking that high up.
2017-09-16_01-49-27 by sbahde, on Flickr
Ceiling joist probably actually collar ties since in the upper third of the rafter. Was by myself so had to cut 2 boards to length plumb them and screw them to the rafter and put the joist on top. Still need to put 4 screws on both sides per the plans. Worked good and they were nice and level. Only got about 1/3 of them in before I was to tired to work anymore, so I  packed up and went home.

[ffpara]

Screenshot_20170420-103304 by sbahde, on Flickr

Probably wont install it tell next summer since Im just trying to get dried in, but Ive been trying to figure out the best place to put my wood stove. Im considering putting it in the corner where the drawing shows the couch. The room was made bigger and the door is farther away from the couch than it shows. Sorry best pic I have of the area. To run the the flue pipe Im considering running it up approx. 8' then going out the side wall (long side of the cabin) and then up and thru the deck roof. 2 reasons for this is so I don't have to work on the 12/12 pitch of the house and if their ever is a leak it would be at the deck and not into the house which I wouldn't see for quite awhile. I've read up on it and it says it will work (though running it straight up is always better) but I have no experience in it so any ideas or comments would be appreciated.

[NathanS]

The only other thing with running the stove pipe at the eave is that you're supposed to run the chimney 2 feet above the ridge, or 2 feet above any roof within like 15 feet, which in small houses is the ridge. A pipe that long might be awkward and require 2 triangular braces fastened into the roof deck.

I thought about running the pipe like that too, but ended up doing everything I could to guarantee good draft - which big do I have, and it's really nice.

My flashing boot for the wood stove was really nice, made in Scranton by a company called ventis. I am pretty sure even when the caulk fails the boot will not leak. Anyway just my 2 cents. You are right to be thinking about eliminating holes in the roof as much as possible. I regretted putting my vent stack through the roof before I did it. Should have gone through the gable.

Your place looks great and you are really moving fast.

[ffpara]

Didn't think of that. I could run it up the 8' and then go out the short wall and up which would take it out the main roof by the ridge but the penetration would be over the gable end and outside the house since the roof extends out from the house 8' for a covered deck. How does that sound? Ill look up that company. Thanks for input.

[NathanS]

I think that will work fine.

I am biased toward a straight run, maybe a 45 or 22 if the stove needs to go a place that the chimney can't quite exit. Guaranteed good draft, least likelihood of chimney fire, easiest to clean, cheapest way to do it... definitely compare costs, ours was about 6 feet of double wall black pipe, then once it got to the second floor it was triple wall stainless steel exterior... about $1600 materials installing it myself...yeesh

One other thing if the pipe goes through the eave area you will have to be really careful about ice damming.

[ffpara]

That's a good point thanks for the info.

[ffpara]

Well just got back from another 7 day trip working. Got a lot done and we got dried in just in time before an early snow storm. I got up there a day early before anyone else arrived and was able to get the ceiling joist (collar ties) in over the living room where there is no floor so working off of scaffolding and ladders wasn't much fun with the 2x8's. Friends and family showed up and in 2 days we were able to get the fascia on (2x10 and 2x8 to match the rafters), roof on and taped with the zip tape in just 2 really long days. Brother in law was able to stay another half day and help me frame up and sheet the highest end which was a life saver since I had to work off extension ladders. After everyone left I finished off all the ceiling joist and bolted them using 4 screws on each side.  Instead of buying more 2x8 I was able to use up the rest of the 2x10 and  saved me a lot of money. Finished off framing and sheeting the last gable wall and installed the last door and put on all the door handles so I could secure the place. Before I did the last gable wall I installed the trex decking on the raised deck so I had a platform to work off of. 2 things I would do again is use the Advantech sheeting and trex decking, I found both to be very convenient. I did tape off the roof and the one gable end wall with only the 2 foot eave since it would get snow or rain on it. The other side has an 8' overhang so didn't figure I need to tape it off since its well protected. Last thing is to get the metal roof on it and I can walk away from it for the winter and start again next summer. My son and I have a couple upcoming deer hunts so might be just in time.

[ffpara]

2017-09-28_08-23-48 by sbahde, on Flickr
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Attaching the ropes on the ridge to tie off of.2017-09-28_08-28-18 by sbahde, on Flickr
really windy the first day so was able to sheet the 6/12 pitch but had to switch to the other 6/12 because to windy for the 12/12 pitch
2017-09-28_08-27-38 by sbahde, on Flickr
Used the quad to raise and lower the lift that Tim built on site. What a life saver. Could raise 6 sheets no problems and do all of our cuts on the ground which makes life easy.
2017-09-28_08-28-39 by 2017-09-28_08-29-47 by sbahde, on Flickr
www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/]sbahde[/url], on Flickr
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I did end up taping off the ridge with 6" zip tape just to dry it in. I will cut it out when I get the metal on since it will be a vented ridge.
2017-09-28_08-20-47 by sbahde, on Flickr

[ffpara]

A little snow right after we got the roof on. After it melted I didn't have a drop inside the cabin. Another recommendation I would have is get a metal 55 gallon burn barrel as soon as the job starts. Great for warming up too and enjoying a drink but mainly for keeping the job site some what clean. You can burn all day everyday and still not keep up with the clutter. Its a life saver.
2017-09-28_08-22-39 by sbahde, on Flickr
2017-09-28_08-22-53 by sbahde, on Flickr
Had to have a drip edge made at home depot to go over my 2x12 ledger board for my deck rafters. Worked great. Easy to find the lower drip edge that went over the 7/16 sheeting but to go over the 2x I couldn't find any where.
2017-09-28_08-22-14 by sbahde, on Flickr
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End wall that I taped off. Hopefully the inspector wont saying anything since it does cover the nails on that end.
2017-09-28_08-20-00 by sbahde, on Flickr
2- 40x40 windows on the gable wall.
2017-09-28_08-23-29 by sbahde, on Flickr
That same wall on the outside. Finished floor is down about 4' on that side because of slope so its a tall wall.
2017-09-28_08-24-36 by sbahde, on Flickr
2017-09-28_08-24-17 by sbahde, on Flickr

[dablack]

Lookin' really sharp.  I really like all the porch areas.  Easy to find a shady or sunny spot.