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A couple more, google ladder ridge hook. You can also separate the ladder, tit the top rungs together and set it over the ridge, one ladder section laying on the roof on each side, tie off the side opposite you. Tie old shirts to the ladder before the last sheet so you can put it on the previous sheet without scratching to finish up.
Scaffolding looks good, add you a 2 by 6 to the bottom of the rail (vertically) (by walkboard) rest your ladder there (to catch) and put the ladder on the roof and you're golden. You'll be like a squirell going up and down move the ladder when needed. Boom, roof is done, by the way love standing seam roofs.
Good luck and be safe, by the way what is the white stuff on the ground?
The right hand chicken ladder is easier and stronger. Project the hooks up above the top face by 1.5" and put another rung under, downslope, of them to lock them in place from rotating under load
If you are using the clamp on snow stops I have put them on, run a 2x4 across them then screw some vertical 2x's and another horizontal one up high enough on the roof to stand on and work the ridge. You do need comfortable access to work both sides of the ridge for quite a while to get everything screwed and clipped in for the ridge on standing seam.
Did you get the metal on the roof yet? If not, you want to get the Sealey ladder hook which will clear the ridge cap without damage. Put this on an aluminum ladder and you can move this easily versus wrestling the weight of the 2x homebuilt ladder option (which would work as well, but be more cumbersome if working by yourself). Be careful the aluminum ladder doesn't scratch your roof (assuming standing seam) by wrapping duct tape several times around the rungs and bottom of side rails (basically where the ladder contacts the roof--you will thank yourself as I learned all this lesson the hard way).
Tinkerer and other interested parties…I think there might be a slight misunderstanding of the intent of a shearwall and the capacity that it provides. The shearwall schedules you see in APA and in code books start with… The base of a building starts with a large weight (most use concrete because it is economically more feasible and has no water issues; and some are also bolted right to the bedrock – same idea but even cheaper than concrete. The “wooden” part of the building is attached to the concrete.That concrete to wood “attachment” is like a cake mix (these parts will make this).The wood-to-wood “attachment” above the concrete is also like a cake mix - this way gets this result.The APA stuff is tested for structures much bigger than you are building. The APA stuff also has “extra” capacity baked in for different wood and structure design. Thus, the forces and those fasteners and connections are much bigger than you would ever need. If you adhere to the common nailing schedule of 6 on 6 this will provide you with plenty of capacity to resist any racking from wind. That includes walls with doors and windows. No double 2xs or straps or bigger headers are needed. But… yes there is always a but.But…you will still need to connect your house to a weight of some sort…as the wind will lift and will want to push your cabin. The image shows the “results” of the wind load. One “result” resists overturning and one “result” resists the pushing. What weight is nearby…wait for it…wait for it…Soil.There are a number of anchors it just depends on your soil type. https://bbponline.com/landscaping-and-nursery/earth-anchors-and-tree-kits/https://www.westechrigging.com/duckbill-014x42.htmlhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2RLLwKQaU0Q&feature=youtu.beSo the next step is how big is the cabin and what’s your estimated peak wind speed?
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Topic: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property (Read 11855 times)
