A Door in the Foundation Wall

Started by VannL, March 01, 2014, 08:20:27 AM

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VannL

My idea is to have a small door in the cinder block wall of my foundation so I can gain easy access to the 5 foot tall area under the house. If it was built out of wood, I would use extra king studs and a big fat header. With block, my idea is to span the doorway with a piece of flat steel and one row of cinder block above it.

Am I on the right track? Will it sag...or worse?
If you build it, it will be yours!

Redoverfarm

#1
Quote from: VannL on March 01, 2014, 08:20:27 AM
My idea is to have a small door in the cinder block wall of my foundation so I can gain easy access to the 5 foot tall area under the house. If it was built out of wood, I would use extra king studs and a big fat header. With block, my idea is to span the doorway with a piece of flat steel and one row of cinder block above it.

Am I on the right track? Will it sag...or worse?

You want to use a lintel.  They bridge that gap.   You can use pre-made lintel that are re-enforced concrete with the appearence of block or use 2- Angle pieces (one inside and one outside).  They should extend at least 1/2 of the block on either side.  Lay you remaining block on top of those in the next course. Then I would frame out the rough opening with pressure treated lumber.  You can then build your door, attach and trim out.  Using a lintel there is no need for jack studs or headers. 

I used a premade lintel on the last course to bridge the 6' opening for the utility door of the cabin.  The picture is not really closeup but will give you some idea.





I would not use regular flat steel unless it is at least 1/2" thick and only if you are laying 1-course above the opening and only openings of less than 36" width.

Here is some images of lintel and their applications

https://www.google.com/search?q=block+wall+lintel&rlz=1T4TSNA_enUS401US438&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=QOERU7L9M4f4yAGgyIDoDg&ved=0CCYQsAQ&biw=1093&bih=434


Don_P

A lintel is one good way, another is to carry the gap in the block right up each side to the mudsill and build up a wooden header inside the rim joist. Any joists coming into that header would need to be on hangers. that would give more headroom into the crawl if you need it.

Squirl

If you are spanning the gap near the top of the block wall and going with light frame construction above, you can get away with a preassure treated header.  I wouldn't worry if it is just one door 36" or under.  For my 24" crawl space access, I poured a custom block and mortared in the header.  I then nailed it to the bolted sill plate.