Subflooring question...

Started by John_M, January 23, 2005, 10:24:39 PM

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John_M

...can you use 2X6 as a subfloor/finished floor or is there a purpose for the subfloor (3/4 T&G plywood) with hardwood laid over the top?

I just thought that if you wanted to have a wooden floor, this might save time and maybe money!

John_M

I actually meant tongue and groove 2x6...sorry!


JeffnTN

Yes, you can do that.  I just finished installing 2x6 T&G Southern Yellow Pine in my loft a few weeks ago.  It is fished floor in the loft and finished ceiling over my Kithcen, Bath and Laundry room.  The profile I chose is flat on top and has the V-Groove pattern on the bottom (ceiling) portion.  

John_M

I know about the loft...but what about on the first floor?  Is a sub floor necessary if you use 2x6 tongue and groove as flooring?

JeffnTN

#4
personal choice, but in my case I chose advantech (3/4) for my subfloor.  When everything is ready I will put in 3/4"T&G SYP for finish floor.


kh

A friend used 2X6 T&G as a subfloor/finished floor and the only issue was that the platform is used as a work area. The wall framing is constructed on it, temporary bracing nailed into it, tools dropped on it etc. Extra care needs to be taken so it doesn't get damaged. It also needs to be covered with a tarp when it rains. My friend was pleased with his floor.

kh

John Raabe

Yes, 2x6 T&G works fine for main floor decking. As mentioned, keeping it a reasonable finished floor surface takes some careful construction and bit of luck.

You don't need plywood or OSB but you will want to put down underlayment if you will do tile or other hard surfaces for the finish floor.
None of us are as smart as all of us.

glenn kangiser

#7
Actually you could go the other way- drop all your tools in random places on the floor or even go as far as putting random dents and things in your floor with a hammer, crowbar or other implement of destruction - then say -I meant to do that - It's called distressed lumber - looks cool and interesting and you pay extra for it in some places.  Think of artificial used bricks- .  A light sanding and a good coat of your favorite clear finish makes a floor that looks neat and you won't worry so much if you drop something on it.

Think of all the time you spend worrying about someone damaging your perfect floor compared the sense of pride you will feel when you realize that someone cares enough to lean back in a chair and add another character mark to your rustic distressed floor.   Not for everyone, but it could have its place.  ;D
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

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Amanda_931

Yep.  

Kind of like heaving a big sigh of relief when the first scratch on the new car is something minor instead of its being totaled.

A fine furniture builder friend just had someone back out of some VERY EXPENSIVE kitchen cabinets that are nearly complete.

I only wondered for about 30 seconds if I could use them.  

No, no, no, no, and no!



John Raabe

Good point Glenn.

There are "urban foresters" in many big cities who cut lumber from recycled wood such as mill timbers and train trestles. The boards have nicks, rusty nail holes and more. Quite expensive, of course.

Most owners are rather proud of the imperfections and show them off to guests.

You could really bang up the decking and then tell wonderful stories about the horse drawn wagons and the casks of ale that cause the dents.
None of us are as smart as all of us.

JRR

In most residential construction, the subflooring goes in full width and length of the building.  Then the subflooring becomes a work surface as the walls are built and raised...to be mounted atop the subflooring.  For the contractor, this is all good... and usually the roof gets put in place before the subflooring gets rained or snowed on too many times ... "usually".
But for us DYI's, its a huge challenge to get the roof on before the subflooring goes thru several seasons of exposure.  We've all been thru it ...trying to build a tent, or something, to protect the plywood during bad weather.
I have no intention of going thru this again.  The new plan willl be to screw down decking instead of subflooring ...and not all the way out to the ribbon beam, so that the decking will not be under the wall installation.  I will try to avoid making too many cuts on the decking material...perhaps install it at geater than normal spacing ... but make a safe surface that can take the weather.
After the "race to the roof" is over and the outside walls and windows are in place... the decking material will be removed (unscrewed) to be used on a real deck/porch.  Now the final subflooring and flooring can be installed "in the dry".  
Obviously one must make sure there is an opening remaining that 4' x 8' sheets can be passed thru...usually a doorway or window will suffice.

eddiescabin

The 2x6 is a good choice, however, there is the issue of weather the outside walls will sit atop the 2x6 or not.  My project is quite different in that I had rotted fir floors which were nailed directly to the floor joists and continued completely underneath the milled redwood walls, thus I had to "slip/slide" the NEW floor material under the outside walls.  Since, in my case, the flooring  under the walls was exposed to the outside conditions I knew plywood would not work (at least without complete flashing)...I wrestled with this problem a long time, wondering if I should just replace the doug fir 3/4" thick floor or try to slide 2x6 under the walls etc, I was going to go with 2x6 redwood throughout to match the large deck outside and simply use pressure treated 2x6 on the long outer most boards that were to be exposed.  After much anguish, indecision and time I ended up using 1" thick HDPE (plastic) sheets (4'x8') which won as they are impervious to rot and insects while being super strong though heavy (131lbs per sheet compared to 81lbs. for plywood) and also easily worked with standard wood handtools.  I plan to use the foil backed floor insulation with a 1x6" redwood finished floor to match the deck.  Like I said, I had some strange requirements, but maybe this helps someone.

desimulacra

Went to a really nice wedding chapel that had 2x6 floors. They laughed when we asked about the "old" flooring. They gave the kids hammers, chains and such and told them to "tear up" the floor. Then they sealed it. It looked really good and they said the kids had a ball ;D
West Tennessee

frazoo

I have a 3' section of logging chain in my furniture/cabinet shop for distressing wood, works great and looks like a million bucks when done right.

frazoo
...use a bigger hammer


eddiescabin

Not only the "chain gang" will distress wood, I've used that in combination with a propane torch to give added effect