Sheathing as Siding

Started by Jeff922, May 14, 2013, 08:29:18 AM

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Jeff922

Hey everyone.  I got my permit to build a 22' x 34', 1-1/2 story barn last winter to accompany my Victoria's.  So far I'm just doing site work clearing trees and whatnot.  To be honest, I haven't really finalized my plans yet and I'm still mulling over my options.  I've been thinking about using plywood as my sheathing and siding and then nailing batons to the exterior to give the barn a nice tradition board & baton look.  Lot's of folks around here build outbuildings, camps, and even nice homes with T1-11 siding and they seem to hold up okay and I know it's allowable by code.  I've read in this forum that a potential issue is that if the sheathing/siding goes unmaintained and begins to rot, then it also becomes a structural issue.  This I'm not worried about.  I'm looking for specific information on the proper building techniques in this type of construction (lots of builders around here seem to do it).  How is the building to be wrapped?  Tyvek (or similar) tacked directly onto studs of framed walls?  Do I hang my windows on the studded walls first and sheath over them?  Or is it better to install windows over sheathing and try to deal with leakage issues during trim-work?  What is the proper way to flash vertically stacked sheathing?  And any other issues I"m not thinking of.  I've dug into the search on this forum but cannot find a good discussion on this topic. 
"They don't grow trees so close together that you can't ski between them"

CjAl

I have seen it done just about every way.  Usually the wrap is out over the studs and the t1-11 over that.

The windows in am not sure of,  Ihave seen them put into the studs then the t1-11 put over them .  I guess since it is the siding then that is correct but Iam oouting the siding up and outingthe windows into it then trim around them .  Then again Iam not wwrapping the wall either but I plan to use the t1-11 as a temp siding just to get the place dried in.  Eventually Iwill put siding over it as it does tend to rot on the bottom .  Property priming and painting of all edges before instalation will help that. I can wrap over the t1-11 are that time.

Also Illive in one of the very few places in the country where no vapor barrier is recommended.  It's not the case most places,  it is so humid here that they want air flow to keep the insulation dry.  If you use a vapor barrier it is supposed to be on the exterior of the students wall not the interior like everywhere else


MountainDon

A barn. Is this what I think of when I see "barn"... a building for animals, machinery, storage of various kinds and whatnot? Or is this going to have conditioned habitable type spaces?

Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

Jeff922

It will be insulated and drywalled with a heat source of some kind, but no plumbing, just electric.  The downstairs will be my woodshop and all-around work area.  The upstairs will be a combination of art studio, fitness/rec room and a small area for my office.  So I guess it's a little more than a barn - no mice or rodents allowed.  ;)  My last barn leaked so much it would get snow drifts on the inside.
"They don't grow trees so close together that you can't ski between them"

MountainDon

Quote from: Jeff922 on May 14, 2013, 09:19:56 AM
It will be insulated and drywalled with a heat source of some kind, but no plumbing, just electric. 

Then I believe it should be built like a house. Sheathing over the studs, housewrap, cosmetic finish over that, with windows and doors installed as you would with a house. OR I suppose the housewrap over the studs with the plywood over that could work. It does seem that installing the wrap before the wall is sheathed and nailed square is going to be a little tricky while maintaining the integrity of the wrap. ???

Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.


Jeff922

Yeah, I'll probably do the old chains and turnbuckle corner-to-corner routine to hold the stud walls square then wrap and sheath.
"They don't grow trees so close together that you can't ski between them"

Jeff922

Or perhaps I'll do let-in bracing on each wall panel to hold things square as well as provide somewhat of a fail safe if the plywood sheathing fails.
"They don't grow trees so close together that you can't ski between them"

metolent

That's how I did my cabin - It's smooth DF T1-11 (no grooves like the stuff you get from the box stores).  The Tyvek house wrap was stretched over the studs after the walls were built, and then T1-11 over the house wrap.  For the vinyl windows I used with nail fins, they were installed with the fins under the t1-11.  For the wood Marvin windows I used, there were no fins, so I put those in the holes later.  We then put cedar battens 12" on center for the BB look.   It's held up great so far, but it's only been up for 2.5 years at this point...

Hope that helps.  I think I have pics of all of this on my build thread....  it's the ski cabin one, even though I haven't updated it in forever.

matt

metolent

Here are a few pics for reference:







Jeff922

Thanks Matt.   :D   Very Helpful.
"They don't grow trees so close together that you can't ski between them"

SouthernTier

Do you have porcupines in your neck of the woods?  They love to eat the glue in plywood.  It took them a couple years to find it, but when they did, this is what they started to do to my outhouse:



I had to put some wood siding over it to stop it.

Jeff922

Wow!  Good to know.  There are certainly porkies in the woods here.  Two weeks ago I took my dog to the vet to have quills removed ::)
"They don't grow trees so close together that you can't ski between them"