To Stain or not to stain

Started by bigcountry, January 23, 2013, 12:34:25 PM

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bigcountry

What is the consensus regarding 1x8 planking for interior walls and staining or polyurethane for protection? I have put the 1x8 up inside my camp and some are telling i have to coat it with something and that i cannot just leave it plain. Any thoughts????

flyingvan

   I use a Varathane semigloss.  You can wipe it clean.  Cobwebs become permanent parts of unfinished wood---you could sand them out, but now you've sanded through the naturally oxidized yellow layer and made a spot that looks like new.  Also the wood next to any staircase will get a dirt band right at hand level where some people have a habit of running their hand down the wall as they go.
   Two coats with a light sanding in between will give good results
Find what you love and let it kill you.


rick91351

Man seems to for some reason want to beautify his cave.  Pictures of the hunt go back to early man.  However if you want to just leave your planking as is it is yours.  However I think I would stain and poly coat it several times rub with 000 steel wool between coatings and on and on just something to do I guess.  Unfinished wood become blemished very easily.  But if you don't mind that just say no - or maybe the next time some one says something invite them over for beers they do the work and you watch.   :)
Proverbs 24:3-5 Through wisdom is an house builded; an by understanding it is established.  4 And by knowledge shall the chambers be filled with all precious and pleasant riches.  5 A wise man is strong; yea, a man of knowledge increaseth strength.

Redoverfarm

I guess it is all in the "eye of the beholder" as far as what finished look you desire.  The choices are unlimited.  Natural stain, dark stains, semi-transparent and the list goes on.  What ever you decide I would definitely put a couple coats of clear finish as a final.  If it will not be traveled upon   d* then water based polycrylic is good in that it dries fast and can be recoated several times in the time that oil based dries for the second coat.    On some of my woodwork it would have not been appealing to use a dark or light stain.   So I went with a "pickled" whitewash that allows the grain and knots to show through but tones down the bright natural color but doesn't darken the room.  Other areas I used a semi-transparent stain. 

MountainDon

Quote from: bigcountry on January 23, 2013, 12:34:25 PM
.... that i cannot just leave it plain. Any thoughts????

You could leave it "au naturelle" but that would not be best for the wood. However it is inside so the worst that would happen is to become old and distressed looking. If that was the goal, or not minded, then leave it as long as you are aware of the pitfalls as mentioned by others.

Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.


hpinson

Second on the Varathane. Their clear semi-gloss Spar Varnish product (expensive) looks great on nicely figured wood, and holds up really well.  I'm using some in an outdoor application (an old door that has a lot of character in its wood) and it seems to be holding up well after 1 year. I'll probably reapply outdoors in a few years.

Ndrmyr

As I've mentioned in this forum before, after substantial research and about a dozen test strips of finishes, I wanted some color to my oak interior walls, but, didn't want to rag on or wipe off stain in my massive cathedral ceiling.  I ended up spraying 2 coats of Zinnser Seal Coat which is simply dewaxed blonde shellac and spraying a single coat of semi-gloss Rustoleum Ultimate Polyeurthane (water based) on top.  On some high traffic areas such as window sills, doors, around switch plates etc, I sanded lightly and applied 1 or 2 additional coats.  The shellac is dry and ready for reapplication in under an hour, and the poly can receive a 2nd coat the next day.  Best of all, no ugly fumes, and no full respirators needed.  Everything sprayed great with a HVLP sprayer, and easy clean-up.  I feel like I have a lot of protection, and, I could apply additional coats in the future if needed after a light sanding.
The shellac really makes the grain pop and darkens the wood enough to act like a light/light-medium stain.  I'm very happy and will use this finish technique again in future projects.
"A society that rewards based on need creates needy citizens. A society that rewards based on ability creates able one."

bigcountry

Thanks everyone for your input....very much appreciated.

Kiwi55

I'm researching a similar issue. If you are going to stain T&G it is recommended to do it before putting the boards up. Otherwise when the wood shrinks you potentially see unstained wood on the tongues.
If you are staining and using poly, is it necessary/recommended to poly both sides?


rick91351

You are correct on the T&G as well as Ship Lap.  Best to stain before hanging lest you get high lights and stripes in the dry weather.  It is also a lot less time consuming if you can do it that way.  Or you can hang it and do a lot of that work over your head and at odd angles and have more chances to  experience the stripe and highlights thing.  Also for a drying rack scaffolding works well if you have any laying around the job site.  Most of the time you will still have a lot of touch ups to do but the huge part is done.     

As far as both sides get same treatment.  In the world of fine furniture and wood working it is often taught that you do such as that.    This practice is and was  hardly done but there is and was some.  In finish work in a house I would never do the both sides thing.  Reason being both time and $$$.  And most homes are hardly done to the tune of fine furniture.  Even those old Greene and Greene and Stickley built homes had their short cuts.   ;) 
Proverbs 24:3-5 Through wisdom is an house builded; an by understanding it is established.  4 And by knowledge shall the chambers be filled with all precious and pleasant riches.  5 A wise man is strong; yea, a man of knowledge increaseth strength.

MountainDon

I'd take a section of the T&G and coat one side, let it dry and see if it cups at all. Then decide on one or two sides. That cupping is the reason for coating both sides. The wider the more it might cup... like a table top
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

rick91351

Quote from: MountainDon on January 24, 2013, 10:10:54 AM
I'd take a section of the T&G and coat one side, let it dry and see if it cups at all. Then decide on one or two sides. That cupping is the reason for coating both sides. The wider the more it might cup... like a table top

100% MD!

However it certainly will not prevent that from happening all the time.  Plus you can look at the end grain as you select your lumber and pretty well know what it is going to do.  Avoid the problem boards if you can.  An over simplification is with all the immature fast grown timer / lumber on the market today.  Hardly any stumpage gives them enough growth rings to produce the proper grain patterns for a quality product.   

Pretty good simple paper out of Oregon State. 

http://ir.library.oregonstate.edu/xmlui/bitstream/handle/1957/4870/Causes_Warp_Lumber_ocr.pdf 

You can also relieve tension by ripping a fairly swallow kerf on the underside of those problem pieces.  Not always good but works in a pinch but can lead to future splitting and other problems!   



 
Proverbs 24:3-5 Through wisdom is an house builded; an by understanding it is established.  4 And by knowledge shall the chambers be filled with all precious and pleasant riches.  5 A wise man is strong; yea, a man of knowledge increaseth strength.

Kiwi55

Not looking to hijack th eoriginal post.
But... What is the best place to buy this pannelling? The local big box (Menards) has pine T&G, but are there better options?

Don_P

Our local mill makes T&G, see if there is someone around you. Alternatively I have wood crossing my path pretty frequently, hemlock a week or two ago, a forester emailed last night that he and the portable sawmiller are into a bunch of eastern redcedar if I know of anyone needing any. I'm not sure how bad transport would be.

I've always finished all sides, hit the back once and the face at least twice, water based seems to take 3 to get an even sheen for me... but then I'm heading down to put another coat on a bunch of planting flats.