Question about routers

[nathan.principe]

Ive looked on the web but not sure I found what Ive been looking for.  My question is, is anyone familiar with a router bit that is capable of cutting through pieces of lumber up to 3" thick, kind of like a jig saw would cut? does that make sense???  This would be used to cut decorative pieces out of cedar, like intricate brackets, corbels, etc.  I would like to be able to make a template with plywood, then just follow the template with a router and cut the pieces precise instead of tracing each template with a pencil and carefully following the line with a jigsaw.  We cut cedar stock up to 6" thick, and when we do so we trace the template on each side, cut one side with a jigsaw then flip the lumber to do the same thing and finish the cut from the other side.  This is why the router bit would need to be at least 3" of cutting length.  Anybody have any insight on this?

[Alan Gage]

They might be out there but I've never heard of such a thing. I don't know how thick you can do with a CNC machine.

Seems like a scroll saw would be your best bet.

Alan

[bayview]

I've never seen a pattern bit longer than 2" . . .    Anything longer and it would be hard to control the router.

However, Maybe you could make this work.   Route one side and then flip project.

*** Remove bottom bearing for first pass with router.   Flip project. . .    Replace bottom bearing and finish . . .

http://www.precisionbits.com/flush-trim-router-bit-2-long-cutter-with-top-and-bottom-bearing-yonico-14134.html

[rick91351]

I vote for Bayveiws view.  Make a template do one side turn and do the other.  The little roller bearing on the bit runs on the template.  This will also work on profile bits but care must be taken lining them up for proper depth.   

 

[PEG688]

Ya , you need a template to guide the bit against, there's a variety of ways  to do it.

  This is a top bearing bit , the bit came from one place the bearings another supplier, this bit isn't as deep as your looking for , and you may NOT find a bit as long as you need . BUT you could pattern rout from one side with a bit like this, then flip the stock over and clean up with a bit like the second one I'll post.





 


  Second bit is a longer double  bottom bearing bit ,

 

   So with the combo of bits maybe you can make things work out.

The Spiral bit is a Whiteside's , bit and I think the other bit is Whiteside bearings and a Osrud cutter. 

If this interest you more I can provide links to both suppliers , both a top notch people to talk with on the  phone , both have good websites. The bits are first rate as well.

 

[nathan.principe]

Thank you everyone for your input.  Im starting to think that sticking with  the jig saw is the way to go.  I like PEG688s idea, but im still concerned that the total length of the 2 diff bits still wont be long enough, as well as the extras steps to keep switching back between diff bits.  My whole idea was to increase efficiency (just clamp the template and get to routing) and lessen the margin of error ( needing a steady hand, also the jigsaw blades can tend to twist on sharp turns and not make a square cut).  If some one has an idea I havent thought of thats not a router, Im open for it.  Can a template be used with a jigsaw???

[PEG688]

 A band-saw or Porta band , I'm assuming your cutting some thing that's curved right? 

But any kind of saw you use will cut the template as well as the wood your intending to cut.

[Don_P]

Thats what I was thinking, bandsaw if the stock is light enough. I've set up a prazi beam saw to cut arcs, its a worm drive saw with a 12" chainbar sticking straight down where the circular blade would be. It can run in normally to waste material but can also make a vertical cut when swept from side to side. I set it up on a plywood trammel arm to make semicircles in logs for arched windows. Multiple wasting cuts then a sweeping arc on the limit of the trammel pivot smoothed the arch... and then lots of sanding, (it is a chainsaw).

Short of that rough it close to the line, patterns on both sides with bearing over bits and rout as much as you can, then rasps and sand alot, one of the narrow upright belt sanders might work for cleanup. The long router bits get expensive and are easier to break if the router starts to rattle on you.