Newbie with questions

cronenwett · February 03, 2006, 04:03:03 PM

Hi all,
I've been reading here for a while. Finally ordered my 20x34 plans and I have a million questions. Hopefully someone will jump in here and help with most of them, and whatever's left I'll ask John about after his trip. I have ordered the framing book by John Wagner, so that might answer some questions.

Plan Questions:
1. The 2 story plan shows 2x6 24"OC, I was planning on 2x4 16"OC. Are there any changes necessary to make this shift? I have enough trouble with sheetrock as it is, I think 24" is asking for trouble.

2. If I do 2x4, how do I deal with headers spanning large distances on the first floor? I can't see how to fit a triple thickness header into a 2x4 wall. (e.g. for the windowseat or the big sliding windows) Is there some sort of engineered product, or am I stuck with 2x6 walls if I want big openings?

2b. I might be able to get away with not doing large openings, by putting the windowseat on the stair landing...how do I calculate loads for something halfway between 1st and second floor (or is this a question for an engineer)?

2c. Is that just adding extra complications by cutting the rim joist for the second floor? Can I even do that?

3. I was thinking about using rigid foam sheets on the outside of the building (rather than the inside like the superinsulation technique shows). Is there a reason not to put them on the outside? The building isn't that wide, I don't want to chew up extra floorspace if I don't have to. Am I going to have issues nailing the siding up? I was "building in my head" and put the 2x4 studs, then the plywood sheathing, then the foam, then the housewrap/tarpaper, then the siding. Is that right?

Land Questions:
4. It's February in NH, even though we've had some warm weather the ground is pretty solid. So I've looked at some land and am looking at more this weekend...no perc test possible until May. Are there pieces of land where no septic system is ever possible? Or is the perc test just a question of in-ground vs. mounded system? Or is this county/town specific?

5. Are there any huge downsides to building on sloped land, assuming it's not so sloped you can't walk on it? I could build a basement that was underground at the front of the house and walk-out in the back. I guess if it drops more than 7 feet over a 34 foot run, that's too steep.

Thanks,
Liz

Jimmy C. · February 03, 2006, 04:37:23 PM

Hello and welcome to the forum.
I have only built the first floor of the two story so far. I put my studs at 16" o.c. because of the same fear of the panels bowing. I have used 2"x6" studs on the first floor. I wanted to give the second floor as much support as possible.
As far as headers go, I used a double 2x12 Because I used full 8 foot studs this allowed enough space to fit the door frame. My headers rest against the top plate.

NOTE*This may not be a correct way of doing this but it is what I did.

An Item called glue lam beams might work for what you are thinking of doing....

Here is a link to my progress so far.

FORUM THREAD
http://www.countryplans.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1136612461

PHOTOS
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/jimmycason40/my_photos

February 03, 2006, 09:47:14 PM

Connenwett:

You will get a lot of information out of your Wagner book. But here are a few tips:
• 2x4 @ 16 is fine structurally. 2x6 @ 24 is more economical for a well insulated structure.
• If you need heavy headers go to LVL (laminated veneer lumber), it is an engineered product.
• You will want to review your changes with someone who knows how to build in your area. Doesn't have to be an engineer unless required by the inspector. Most experienced builders know how to size headers, etc.
• Yes, insulated sheathing on the outside is just as good as the inside. Many builders do it that way.
• There are lots of properties that will not perc and should not be built on. There are also places that do perc that should also not be built on :-/. Don't buy bad land - no one will want to live there.

Finally, find the land before you layout your plan changes. Your customizations should start with the site.

Daddymem · February 04, 2006, 08:20:22 AM

3. Check out how FirstDay houses are built either on their website or here at Dustin's page. There are pictures showing the foam insulation on the outside, Typar beneath, and how they get their siding on over it all. The only difference is you put your Typar over plywood. Here is a good shot. And a whole page of pictures at the Hazzard's site.

4. Yes, there are lots that cannot serve septic. Typically the perc test is performed for two specific reasons: a) Find out where the water table is. This is where a system can be mounded or not based on how deep the seasonal high ground water is and what the rules are for separation from this to the bottom of your system. b) How well the soil infiltrates. This determines how big your system footprint is, the faster the perc, the smaller the system, all determined by the rules.

glenn kangiser · February 04, 2006, 10:09:12 AM

5. You can build reasonably well on anything you can walk on but I would say difficulty increases as the slope gets steeper. It depends on whether you want to or are physically able to deal with it. To me slopes are more desireable as long as you have a way to get access with vehicles and equipment. Some of the nicest places are on hilly or mountainous areas.

Look at Hollywood-- people spend millions of dollars for the privilege of buying a house that will eventually slide down to their neighbors below. Obviously some of the land that shouldn't be built on, or it may have been modified by man to create the problems. Many of the mountains are much more stable than the valley areas that are subject to floods and slides. You need to study and know your soil and learn a bit about your geology for best results.

February 04, 2006, 10:35:21 AM

5. Walkouts are common in NH given the terrain. Most of NH is granite so you will likely find solid ground to build on...it is the water and sewer that can be tough. Insulation and frost walls will be require additional attention along exposed walkout basement walls. Where abouts in NH?

Doug Martin · February 04, 2006, 05:50:20 PM

And hopefully if you are buying far enough from the MA state line your local government/code official will still remember that they live in NH and they will leave you alone

Unfortunately (so say my NH friends) too many "massholes" are moving over the border and "live free or die" is starting to be forgotten.

On a more helpful note I'd imagine you'd need to wait until after mud season to have your land perc'd. Mud season is normally late March/early April out here in Western Mass but with the mild winter we are having it probably won't last for long -- I don't think the ground is frozen down very far.

cronenwett · February 05, 2006, 05:33:59 PM

Hi all,
Thanks for the replies. I'm anxious to get going but I don't want to get stuck with a piece of land that doesn't work out.

Even though it's been warm, only about the first inch of ground is thawed, it's like concrete after that. Not sure how far down, I was hacking at it with an ice pick for a while before giving up.

I'm in the Lebanon area right now, but am looking further south, probably north of Keene, south of Claremont. There are some nice towns in that area with about 2000 people in them...sounds about right to me

For various reasons I need to stay in NH right now, otherwise I'd be looking over the border into VT as well.

I know I need to move more slowly on buying the land, I'm just anxious to get started! (Mid-life crisis coming a bit early I guess). I just wanted to start building this summer!

Thanks,
Liz