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I'll focus on the concept 3 drawings:Looking at the kitchen, is it possible to remove that interior wall that is currently behind the appliances? The appliances would then move to the potential half wall which would be a full wall. The breakfast bar could be larger and move in a similar fashion. I wouldn't make it too large though, as it would limit what you could do with your now, much larger, dining area.With the bathroom, double sinks will double your under cabinet space. Because of this, you may be able to eliminate the linen closet. I would remove this, and use this space as a "cove" for the toilet. The bedroom closet size could be adjusted as needed to ensure the cove is large enough. Some double sinks are pretty small, so it might even be possible to install a small linen cabinet(tall/narrow) to the right of the sink location, though I would wait on this until rough in and you can get an idea of "openness"Out of curiosity, do you have any outside pictures? Those dormers must be pretty tall to allow for 2 levels.
I kind of like the 3 dormer look on this size of a building but I could easily bump these out to 7ft dormers from the 6ft they are now and make the spaces more usable.
You're terminating in a vertical end to avoid a flashing issue? If votes count I like the hipped return better (try googling "cornice return") but if there's brick there that would work better.Or.. connect the returns all the way across the wall, a pent roof? Brick below and stucco above.Draw in the thickness of the soffit material then double check the fascia on the rakes and eaves. I like to have 1/2-3/4" of fascia "hangy down" (technical term ) below the underside of the soffit and usually run it up flush to the top of the sheathing ply on the rakes. I do alot of 3/4 T&G soffits, with a 2x6 fly, 5/8 roof deck it's about 6-3/4" thick, with a 1x8 @7-1/4" wide that works well in that setup then I rip the eaves to maintain the hangy down height.