Subfloor leveling etc

Started by beckhamk, April 05, 2011, 08:39:39 AM

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beckhamk

We are looking to build the 20x30  1 1/2 story and most likely go with a block crawl space foundation.

We are contracting out the foundation and block work, so i would expect this to be level. keeping my fingers crossed, but i assume there is a normal margin of error here.

So i have a few questions regarding the subfloor, rim joists and sill plates.

1) I assume that everything should be as level as it can and that starts at the foundation and sill plates correct?

2) If I am to keep things level at the sill plate or rim joists - how does one do that?  Are we talking shims of some sort?

3) I understand that the pressure treated sill plates are bolted to the anchor bolts in the foundation. I want to confirm that the rim joists are simply toe nailed into the sill plate. Or are there additional fasteners used to anchor the rim joists to the sill plate?



Redoverfarm

Sounds as if you are on the right track.  If your block layer is worth his salt he will make sure that the top course is level.  J-Bolts are affixed with mortar/concrete.  Just make sure that when you lay out the position for them that they do not interfer with the location of the floor joist or a rim joist. Normally the rim joist is toe-nailed but you can go a step further to anchor it. There are probably fastners made but by attaching 2X material intermittently to the sill plate with 3 or 3-1/2" heavy deck screws you can then face nail the rim joist to those for extra protection.  Again do not let these interfer with floor joist location.  This can be done after the joist are installed and prior to the subfloor.

There is foam used to help seal the area between the sill plate and the block.  Some use a termite guard (flashing bent 30 deg on the outside) between the block and foam/sill.


pmichelsen

I agree that the contractor laying your block wall should be able to have your top course level.

MountainDon

There is absolutely no reason the wall can not be laid level and true. It is done all the time here. We don't use wood for neighborhood fences, we have miles upon miles of concrete block walls dividing properties. Mine are all level and plumb and solid after 26 years.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

Don_P

In high wind areas after I've bored the sills for the anchor bolts I'll flip them over and nail straps alongside each anchor bolt hole so that the straps stick out from the foundation when the sill is flipped back over and installed on the foundation. The rims and joists are then installed and the straps are bent up along the  side of the floor and nailed to the rim. On one job I took the time to align them with joists/ studs above and ran the strap up the studs as well. This ties the parts together really well. It does suck to try to shoot a nail where a strap is though.


MountainDon

That is a very cool method! 
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.