Tractor Implement Designs?

Started by DirtyLittleSecret, June 05, 2010, 10:29:56 PM

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DirtyLittleSecret

Anybody got ideas/designs/schematics for various "do it yourself" tractor implements?
One of my buddies is going to let me borrow his new Kubota L4400 for a weekend and I gotta do something nice to pay him back...
Really surprised that we dont have a thread on tractors!

Have found this, but anyone else here got something?
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/
Thumb, meet hammer...hammer, meet thumb...

glenn kangiser

I like that kind of stuff.

I recently got a Troy built sickle mower and want to make a hay rake for my Bush Hog based on the old sulky rake designs.  That would allow me to mow the fields around here on the mountain keeping the straw long for cob building or animal bedding, compost etc. while cutting fire danger and making use of the resources.

I found this cool old Google Book - American Agricultural Implements, that is available for free download and is full of old time equipment that you could build yourself.

http://books.google.com/books?id=dLc6AAAAMAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=american+agricultural+implements&ei=4BkLTILNFoamlQSI0ICnCQ&cd=1#v=onepage&q&f=false

What type equipment are you thinking of.  I used to build single wing ditchers for three point hookups.  I learned the secrets of making them work successfully from and old blacksmith in 1972.
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

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glenn kangiser

I actually saw the Tarahumara  Indians in Mexico using the Mexican style plow behind a horse about 12 years ago.  Things like that could be adapted to small tractors or larger ATV's.

Pix from the above book.

"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

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glenn kangiser

Looking over your link I see I was there looking a couple weeks ago about the rake design.
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

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Redoverfarm

DirtyLittleSecret about the best accessory I have found with my tractor is a "carry-all" that I use on the 3-point hitch.  It was a truck tarp rack that a local company had changed out for aluminum.  I modified it from the frame mount to a 3-point hitch mount.  I also welded 2" square stock to act as a receiver on the back and each side on the bottom side.  Then I made a upright fence wire rack which will go into the receiver.  I use the basket for about everything from carring fencing supplies, buckets, chains, ropes, chain saws, gas cans and tools.  You can slide a roll of wire onto the post of the rack and into the receiver which allows you to unroll fencing either woven wire/barb wire while driving the tractor along the fence (either direction).  I would post a picture but it is presently up at the cabin so I will have to wait on that one.


Don_P

My caryall started as a discarded pair of forklift forks. I welded it to 5" C channel and attached mounting points for the 3pt. I slide a pallet or box onto the forks. Or slide them off to move stuff with the forks. It'll pick up pretty healthy rocks, timbers etc.

Also made a heavy duty oversized boom pole for loading logs with out of 4" C and 3" angle.

I made a subsoiler for burying lines. Need to pound it back and reinforce it though, darn locust roots  :P

Pay attention to 3pt dimensions when you make the mounts. I know people who have had to grind and reweld...real well  ;D

Redoverfarm

Don a friend loaned me a "pig pole" that he utilizes for log home construction.  It was a 8' piece of 4" pipe which had another 4' of 3" pipe inserted into the 4" which made it telescopic when the extra length was needed.  He had made it to fit over a fork but you could construct it to a 3pt hitch as well.  The advantage of it being on a front fork was that you could get extra heigth with the front loader arms.

I would also use the "bolt on" 3pt hinge pins rather than welding in place.  That way they can be changed out for different class tractors.

Dallas2build

#7
Quote from: glenn kangiser on June 05, 2010, 10:50:43 PMI recently got a Troy built sickle mower...

[cool]
Glenn, how do you like it?  I've been looking at them for the same reason.  What will it really cut?  Will it cut briars, vines and maybe some small cane for along my creek?  I've got some areas that I would like to keep cleaned up, but not enough room for tractor and too rough terrain for a mower.

Speaking of implements and tractors, I wish I had my old David Bradley back.  I had a cutter for the front of it.  When my dad was a kid he saved his wood cutting money to buy it.  Then he used it to grow corn, beans and potatos in the summer to sell.  The old thing was sitting behind the barn and when I was 10 he passed it on to me.  Man I thought I was something with my own garden tractor.  I grew corn, beans and tators and saved enough money to buy a few more implements.  When I was 12 I saved enough to buy a chainsaw.  Then I could work all year and earn money instead of just the summers.  I wouldn't trust one of my boys with a chainsaw when they turn 12 to save my life.  Not that it matters because it's all I can do to get a few chores out of them around the house.  It's harder when you live in the city to raise boys right.   Anyway, we sold the farm and moved to Alabama when I was 17 and dad sold the old Bradley then.  I wish I had it back today.

glenn kangiser

It is very good although my terrain is really rough.  It will go through grass, thistles , small trees up to an inch or more diameter if you let it chew on the bigger stuff (back off on the self propel handle a second or two).  I don't think it is currently in production but there are parts available or modifications can be made to keep the sickle going.

It just powers on through anything it comes up against.  Note that this could include your dogs legs or anything else in front of it so be careful.

The sickle comes apart for sharpening easily and the whole bar assembly can be taken off in about 30 seconds.  I like it.

It will cut briers and vines but keep in mind that it makes a cut at the base of the vegetation so if it is self supporting such as a mass of briers they may still give you problems.  The DR Brush cutter (I have a Bachtold - original DR before the lawyers for the stupid got them)  may be better in that case but it chops things into small pieces rather than cutting them at the base.  Both are good and have overlapping uses depending on what you want to come out with as a final result.
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

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DirtyLittleSecret

GK- Dang, that's a great resource (have printed it out for an enjoyable Summer afternoon read).  Thanks!

I'm either going to build a box scraper/ripper or a carryall like this one:
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200315495_200315495

Thinking that the box scraper would be the easiest as I've got a bunch of 4x4x.25 as well as .25" plate sitting in the garage and make the rippers (which I could just order) adjustable/removable altogether by a simple bolt lock.  An easy afternoon lemonade project.

Really digging the Kubotas, and have been considering buying one (guess this will be a test drive)...Seems Kubota has really taken the mid-compact tractor market with the L series (comparing to JD, NH, Case).  Growing up we had a good deal of mixed acreage and an old Ford 8n which we called "Death" because it was such a pig to work with (I distinctly remember using an axe handle to turn the steering wheel due to no PS), but then again it was survival on the farm.  Somehow the farm disappeared and all I got were good memories of hard times.  
Thumb, meet hammer...hammer, meet thumb...

Dallas2build

Thanks Glenn for the review.  Sounds like it would work well for my application.  Cutting at the base would be the best for me as it's all been cut at least once and I just need to keep it trimmed back.  The cane would be best just cut at the ground and then I rake and pick it up.

Have any of you guys used any of the little Yanmar or Mahindra tractors?  THe small ones?  My buddy has a small Mahindra and I have used it several times and even a couple times on my place.  I've been very pleased with the performance and if you look hard you can get them used with a front end loader for the price of an 8N.  Don't get me wrong, it's not for big jobs, but brush hoging under trees, cleaning up brush in small places, etc... it's been great.

glenn kangiser

Glad you liked the book.  I always search the old books on Google for old technology.  Lots of those little gems out there free for downloading and printing. 

The sickle is pretty impressive - you just go along at walking speed and stuff just falls over flat.  The rivets can be tightened with ball peen hammer on some kind of anvil and new sickle section kits or blades are sometimes on e-bay or there is an upgrade posted on the net to put John Deere 4 inch sections on it rather than the 2 inch sections if you can't find them. 

I wouldn't mind converting mine to a longer sickle bar some day if the need arises.
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

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Redoverfarm

DirtyLittleSecret I had mentioned the carry-all that I have.  Here is a picture that I took today when I was working on the Mountain. Maybe it will assist you.


glenn kangiser

Cool, John.... a hat catcher for when it gets knocked off of my head.... [waiting]
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

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Don_P

I had a neighbor that decided a milk crate wedged in his box scrape was a great carryall. A box scrape can make a real mess out of a chainsaw when the milk crate slips through  d*.

I like the telescoping boom pole idea  [cool]

Dallas2build

Quote from: glenn kangiser on June 06, 2010, 07:37:09 PMThe sickle is pretty impressive - you just go along at walking speed and stuff just falls over flat.  The rivets can be tightened with ball peen hammer on some kind of anvil and new sickle section kits or blades are sometimes on e-bay or there is an upgrade posted on the net to put John Deere 4 inch sections on it rather than the 2 inch sections if you can't find them.

Glenn someone is going to owe you a commission check because you have sold me.  What do they run you reckon?  Are we talking $200 or $800 for something like that?

DirtyLittleSecret

Redoverfarm- thanks!  Very simple designs are what I like...they hold up better.
Thumb, meet hammer...hammer, meet thumb...

glenn kangiser

Quote from: Dallas2build on June 09, 2010, 04:01:07 PM
Quote from: glenn kangiser on June 06, 2010, 07:37:09 PMThe sickle is pretty impressive - you just go along at walking speed and stuff just falls over flat.  The rivets can be tightened with ball peen hammer on some kind of anvil and new sickle section kits or blades are sometimes on e-bay or there is an upgrade posted on the net to put John Deere 4 inch sections on it rather than the 2 inch sections if you can't find them.

Glenn someone is going to owe you a commission check because you have sold me.  What do they run you reckon?  Are we talking $200 or $800 for something like that?

The guy I bought mine from was asking $500.  I offered $400 as I had just fixed up the Bachtold and could get by. He said he would try to sell it for $500 and keep my number  then call me if he didn't.  He called the next day and said it was ready to be picked up.

They were around $2000 new depending on accessories and where you bought them.

I got my parts kit with sections and rivets and replaced the two broken sections, peened and ground the rivets.  I used my portable grinder to sharpen the dulled sections as well as grind the heads off of the old sections to punch out the old rivets.  Less than an hour to do the repairs and sharpening.   It is working great now.
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

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