Mold on wood window trim?

Started by Ernest T. Bass, March 01, 2009, 09:59:34 PM

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Ernest T. Bass

Hey guys... We've got our windows (simple vinyl w/ nailing fin type) installed in 2x bucks in our cordwood walls. We insulated around them with stuffed cellulose, caulked them and trimmed 'em with wood. We've got lots of black mold around the bottom corners of most of them, partially from moisture (condensation) on the windows running down, and partially direct condensation on the coldest nights because the window frame is pretty thin and the wood gets cold near it..

I was thinking of pulling out the cellulose and insulating around the bottom with spray foam, but that still isn't going to stop the window glass induced moisture... I thought about coating the trim in poly so at least it's clean-able, but we try to stay away from toxic sealers and are afraid that mold growing on plastic might be more harmful from a health standpoint.. Any thoughts? How do log homes deal with this issue? Obviously a deeper window frame would be ideal, or at least a window that is installed a little more recessed into the building envelope, but these aren't options at this point..

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cordwood

 Not sure how to prevent it but I use white vinegar to get rid of it and it usually stays gone for over a year that way here. :-\
I cut it three times and it's still too short.


Redoverfarm

Andrew I would use a bleach solution to kill the mold.  There are some commercial products available.  Boric acid I think is one.  Here is another

http://www.fosterproducts.com/default.aspx?PageID=details&pid=238

Here is a DIY'r site which has some good info on mold.  Remember Mold is black and alge is green. 

http://boards.hgtv.com/eve/forums?a=search&reqWords=mold


MountainDon

I have read that using bleach to "kill" mold is at times counterproductive. It can superficially get rid of the mold, but actually cause it to spread. The bleach can cause mold to go into a protective mode of some sort. Sorry, I do not recall the details, the fine points. There are products out there that are designed to be more effective against mold than bleach. You'll have to do some research.


Algae can also be pink. And pink algae can be a _itch to get rid of in a swimming pool!
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

jb52761

When I started rebuilding my old fishing cabin, I had a few mold spots pop up here and there, as the structure wasn't closed in and I had moisture probs. I started with the bleach solution but eventually gave up on that idea. I went with the old stand-by, Tylex....the mold spray for shower stalls. But I left it on the surface of the wood rather than imediately wiping clean, and I found that the mold didn't return. Had a spot again show up on the end of a truss inside, and I then wiped the entire area with a good coat of Murphy's Oil soap...it cleared the mold and seemed to coat the surface nicely...hasn't come back.....just my experience here.....jb


John_C

Here is an article on post Katrina mold remediation using borates

http://www.thefreelibrary.com/Mold+and+endotoxin+levels+in+the+aftermath+of+Hurricane+Katrina:+a...-a0160559048

There are some interesting home brewed mold remedies using Vinegar, Hydrogen Peroxide and Boric acid.

I've been researching various boric acid protocols for treating rot, mold, termites and carpenter ants for the log home I'm working on.  Both Lowe's and HD have boric acid very cheaply. Look for Hot Shot roach killer...  < $5 / pound. It's 99% Ortho-boric acid, same thing. The carrier for getting the boric acid into damp wood is propylene glycol, which is available as environmentally friendly anti freeze. The PG is hygroscopic and caries the boric acid into damp wood. When the moisture evaporates it leaves the borates behind.


Redoverfarm

Andrew just make sure that the medium used to deliver the mold killing chemicals will not discolor the surface.  I had my log home treated with Boric Acid and they used a clear medium. 

Ernest T. Bass

Thanks for the tips on getting rid of the mold, guys! I just wish there was some way to prevent it from coming back.. Seems as long as that wood is always getting wet there will be an ongoing battle.

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Mark L.

I'm not sure if this would work in your situation, but you can buy the product to treat your wood, similar to pressure treated wood (CCA), and wipe or brush it on. This isn't probably the best idea, but it may work in your situation if nothing else works. I also remember my chemistry instructor saying that if bleach is not mixed with the right ratio of water it is fairly ineffective.


John_C

Mixed correctly chlorine bleach will kill most mold but has no residual mold killing capability.

Borates are water soluble and will leach out over time with.  They do retain there mold killing properties as long as they remain in the wood.

I'm going to try a mixture of Hydrogen Peroxide and Boric Acid.  I have a very large test area, so I should be able to try several things in the next few weeks.

Redoverfarm

John

That is why I sealed the borate in the logs after a couple days of drying.  Just used regular sealer.  You scare me when you talk about rotten sills and logs.   [scared]

I would be interested in seeing what you are trying to do. Pics?

Mark L.

http://www.care2.com/greenliving/three-ways-to-kill-mold-naturally.html well this would be a natural way

http://www.moldacrossamerica.org/notobleach.htm  this site im not sure about but interesting

What part of the country are you in? Is it frost building up that melts or is it rain water your problem is? First move would probably be a dehumidifier, possibly add a small fan for air circulation. Mold won't grow well in a dry environment (well). You maybe should get a humidity tester before anything else and check what percentage you have in your house. I got mine at wally world for about 4 dollars.