Started on the storm shutters today.

[peter nap]

Since I can't work on the building during the week, I'm trying to knock out some of the things that need to be done in theshop. Today I started shaping the storm shutters for the doors and windows. One nice thing about those thick walls is that they will fit flush in the opening when closed.

Since they are lockable, they should be a little extra security when we're gone. In extreme weather, they should give some dead air insulation. I never shaped a double sided raised panel before. Takes a little practice.  

[MountainDon]

I'll be looking forward to seeing your finished product. I'll be doing something similar nexxt year.

G/L

[PEG688]

 I never shaped a double sided raised panel before. Takes a little practice.  

 

 So what your process?

[peter nap]

I jigged the fingers out so they are pressing on the center of the panel PEG. Then I clamped a guide to keep it (the panel) tight against the fence a

[peter nap]

I jigged the fingers out so they are pressing on the center of the panel PEG. Then I clamped a guide to keep it (the panel) tight against the fence and last, I ripped a couple of blocks at 12 degrees and screwed them into the table before and after the cutter.

This works fine with the shorter panels for the windows but to be honest, I can freehand them if I take my time.

The longer panels for the doors are giving me problems though. There's just a lot of distance to cover without it binding.

They are coming  out OK now by taking very light passes on each cut.

I expect I'll work on them again on Thursday. If I have any more problems, I'll cut them on the table saw and finish them by hand.

[glenn kangiser]

You can edit your posts by hitting the modify button in the top right corner of the displayed message, Peter.

[peter nap]

Other than posting while half asleep and writing fingers instead of feather board and not giving a good description of the panels tipping because I don't have a flat edge on either side and getting a lot of chatter because I took too big a bite.......what did I miss?

HMMMMM...seems I posted some of the same gibberish twice. Gotta remember to take my Geritol !

[desdawg]

Peter just don't take too much or the iron in your blood will turn to lead in your posterior. At least that is what I have heard.  

[peter nap]

I was wondering what was slowing me down Des. I almost hate to post this time of morning now....Anyway, I had meetings most of yesterday and put the shutters up for a while. I made the bus strip for my new charge controller last night and this morning.
The new controller will be here today and I want everything ready to get it in and running.

[glenn kangiser]

I have considered using copper pipe for a buss strip.  Maybe solid is better.  I don't know.  I wonder if Don has numbers for that?  :-?

[peter nap]

I used Corian for the insulator, steel bolts (Because the O connectors are in contact with the copper or lead anyway). The strip is lead and each polarity has an interlaced 10 ga wire.



I still have to trim the lead and put the last output connector on.

[MountainDon]

I have considered using copper pipe for a buss strip.  Maybe solid is better.  I don't know.  I wonder if Don has numbers for that?  :-?

Well, Glenn, copper in general is an excellent electrical conductor as you are aware. The pure copper that is made and sold specifically for electrical purposes does have a slightly better electrical conductivity than copper plumbing pipe and other copper items that are alloyed with other metals. The differences aren't great, but do exist. In a perfect world you wouldn't use copper plumbing for electrical purposes. Now there's a terrible thought... using the home's copper water pipe as one conductor in a home made wiring system..??

Whether or not the copper is solid or tubular doesn't matter. The cross section area of the copper is what's important.

Storm Copper  http://stormcopper.com/  makes all types and shapes of copper components, bus bars, tubing, sheets and plate. Reasonable place to buy from. They also have ampacity tables. If you know the amps that the conductor will be subjected to you can see what dimensions of electrical copper is suitable.   Here's the link to their quick selector chart  http://stormcopper.com/design/Ampacity-Quick-Chart.htm

[MountainDon]

The strip is lead and each polarity has an interlaced 10 ga. wire.

Peter, if the use of the lead is for electrical conductivity it is not a good choice.  :'(  Lead is not very high up the electrical conductivity list. How much amperage will be passing through the bus? Having the copper wires will help, how much depends on anticipated current.

Here's a little chart with the electrical conductivity of some common metals. Since copper is the most commonly used material for electrical conductors it is assigned a value of 100. So a higher number would be a better conductor, a lower number not as good a conductor.

Silver  106
Copper  100
Aluminum, pure  59
Aluminum, alloys, soft  45 to 50
Brass  28
Iron 12 to 18
Steel  3 to 15
Lead 7
Nichrome (heating element wire) 1.45

A more complete list may be found at
http://www.wisetool.com/designation/cond.htm

If they'd be of any help there are voltage drop calculators for calculating wire sizes/amps/volts/distances etc. on the forum at
http://www.countryplans.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1168907350

[peter nap]

Your right Don but the lead is intended to act as a cushion for the wire rather than than a conductor. It prevents the copper from being deformed when the nut is torqued down.

10 gauge wire has an amperage rating of 55 amps for chassis wiring. Since this is doubled and twissted, the rating is somewhat higher. The maximum current the controller can handle is 60 amps, so I think I'm on safe ground.

The Maximum Amps for Chassis Wiring is a conservative rating, but is meant for wiring in air, and not in a bundle. For short lengths of wire, such as is used in battery packs you should trade off the resistance and load with size, weight, and flexibility.

When I did the final test, I could find no appreciable resistance between the furthest lug and the line outlet. The current is also progressive in this setup. Lug 20=.5 amp. lug 19=1 amp. luh 18=1.5 amp. etc. etc.

The final lug carries the highest amperage with the lowest resistance,

[MountainDon]

Well there ya' go Peter. You're right on top of it all. Sorry for doubting you, but I also didn't want someone to go and make up a bus bar using lead.

[peter nap]

It is a good point Don and your comments are always welcome (as well as always being correct)