subfloor a bit too big - problem sheathing?

[MarkAndDebbie]

Hey everybody,
It's been a while. I'll need to update our project, but (after some setbacks) we're back at it. (20x32 story and a half).

We are looking at putting up the walls soon. I check the measurements and we are a little long (i.e. our 20' sides are 20.5). When I put up the sheathing can I just cheat the .25 inch on each side - that is not line the edge of the sheathing up with the edge of the first stud. I'd then cheat that first stud over the .25 inches on each side (it's not 24 on center anyway - it's 24 from edge to center for the sheetgoods ).

If that's not it, how could I "fix" my problem?

As long as we're talking about the sheathing, can I/ should I lay the "blocking" vertically that I will use as a nailing surface for the edges of the sheathing. Obviously it's not acting like blocking in with the 6" orientation vertical. I thought it would make plumbing/electical/insulation easier.

Thanks,
Mark

[Don_P]

I don't see anything wrong with that as a fix. The blocking can be done that way, I just did it on a building. You do need fireblocking between floors though, that should block the entire bay to keep from having a chimney between floors, those are real killers and are the reason balloon framing got a bad rep.  So if its strictly sheathing blocking you can stand it up, if its also fireblocking then lay it flat.

[MountainDon]

I'm not sure I understand the spacing?  

Are you saying that if one panel is centered on a stud, then the other edge of that panel does not fall over a stud, but lies at the edge, unsupported? Or is it fully overlapping that stud?


I believe, but am not positive, that nails should be no closer than 3/8" to the panel edges. Maybe someone can confirm or rebut that.

 

[Don_P]

If I understood right, they are cheating the sheet out of the corner where there is plenty of meat, then starting layout with proper breaks. IOW stud layout is, hook the corner, 23.5 (instead of 23.25), 47.5, etc and center the sheet on the break slipping it 1/4" over from flush with the corner. The siding cornerboard will hide the sin.

[MarkAndDebbie]

I'm not sure I understand the spacing?  

Are you saying that if one panel is centered on a stud, then the other edge of that panel does not fall over a stud, but lies at the edge, unsupported? Or is it fully overlapping that stud?

Normally (I think) you would line the sheathing up flush with the edge of stud number 1 (the corner). The other edge would land about half way (about 3/4 of an inch) on another stud. You'd space the next sheet 1/8 over and keep going. But since my place doesn't come out nice and even, I'd space stud number one and stud number two an extra 1/4 inch out and not line up the edge to stud number one, but closer half way.

I guess my question boils down to - does the sheathing need to be flush to the edge of the first stud? (That seems easier than the previous 6 paragraphs )

My long wall may be even further out of whack...

[MarkAndDebbie]

If I understood right, they are cheating the sheet out of the corner where there is plenty of meat, then starting layout with proper breaks. IOW stud layout is, hook the corner, 23.5 (instead of 23.25), 47.5, etc and center the sheet on the break slipping it 1/4" over from flush with the corner. The siding cornerboard will hide the sin.

Yes! And the tar paper will hide it from the rough-in inspection

[glenn kangiser]

I think one of our old members said, The Trim Will Hide It.

I don't see a problem there.

[Jens]

"I guess my question boils down to - does the sheathing need to be flush to the edge of the first stud? "

no.  easiest way is to come into the stud at 4 feet, and split it.  If The siding hangs over, trim it off (which it won't in your case), but as long as you have 1/2 the stud to nail your plywood to, good to go